2.3L ('83-'97) 89 ranger won't stop cranking

[RobbieD]

I don't think it's "I". Is the other terminal marked?

 

[RonD]

Yes, "S" terminal for START


The "I" was used in pre-1980's vehicles for "I"gnition Coils with Ballast resistors on startup to give it a higher voltage, just FYI
New Coils didn't need ballast resistors, so "I" hook up was no longer needed

 

[RobbieD]

The right terminal for the starter wire from the ignition switch should be marked "S".

And the starter relay has to bolted down to work correctly.

 

[MsRanger]

I don't think it's "I". Is the other terminal marked?

It goes to the S terminal. So I'm not sure if the starter wire goes on the left side or right side. Have the positive wire and the fuse box wire in the left closest to the battery. I haven't connected the starter wire yet

Enclosed pic

 

[RonD]

The larger terminals have no assigned sides

One larger post will have ONLY ONE WIRE, the wire that goes to starter motor, it must be on its own, no other wires here

The other larger post will have Battery Positive wire and 2nd wire to fuse box, and even 3rd or 4th wires to power other things that have been added

 

[Curious Hound]

The right terminal for the starter wire from the ignition switch should be marked "S".

And the starter relay has to bolted down to work correctly.

Since it DOES start, the starter relay obviously has a good ground connection. If it didn’t, it could not energize and send power to the starter.

 

[RobbieD]

Actually, when the relay coil is first energized it could arc enough to create a magnetic field, pulling the starter in, then there's not enough ground to collapse the field when the starter wire goes low. In effect, locking up the relay.

Added: Now I see a mounting bolt in the latest photo, and there was not one visible in the first pic.

 

[MsRanger]

It goes to the S terminal. So I'm not sure if the starter wire goes on the left side or right side. Have the positive wire and the fuse box wire in the left closest to the battery. I haven't connected the starter wire yet View attachment 91419Enclosed pic

Actually, when the relay coil is first energized it could arc enough to create a magnetic field, pulling the starter in, then there's not enough ground to collapse the field when the starter wire goes low. In effect, locking up the relay.

Added: Now I see a mounting bolt in the latest photo, and there was not one visible in the first pic.

Well ît done good so far started and starter disengaged. Hopefully I have it fixed. Thank you so much

 

[Curious Hound]

Actually, when the relay coil is first energized it could arc enough to create a magnetic field, pulling the starter in, then there's not enough ground to collapse the field when the starter wire goes low. In effect, locking up the relay.

There are some fundamental misunderstandings here.

1. The purpose of the coil in the relay is to create a magnetic field to pull the switch contacts closed and complete the circuit from battery terminal to starter terminal.

2.When the contacts close, an arc is created. The only detrimental effects of this arc are that over time, it causes the terminals to become dirty and pitted. Eventually, due to the dirt and pitting or, if something causes abnormally high current, the contacts could actually weld themselves closed either temporarily until some physical vibration jars them open, or sometimes they get permanently welded shut.

3.When power to the relay coil is removed by letting go of the key switch, the coil de-energizes and the magnetic field collapses, allowing the switch contacts to open by action if a spring. No arc or magnetic disturbance from an arc has anything to do with this. That’s how it works.

4.When the contacts open, another arc occurs as the starter circuit is broken. More dirt and pitting on the contacts is the result here.

Now you know, from an electrician with 41+ years of training and experience.

 

[Curious Hound]

Well ît done good so far started and starter disengaged. Hopefully I have it fixed. Thank you so much

Excellent! Glad you fixed it.

 

[RobbieD]

There are some fundamental misunderstandings here.

1. The purpose of the coil in the relay is to create a magnetic field to pull the switch contacts closed and complete the circuit from battery terminal to starter terminal.

2.When the contacts close, an arc is created. The only detrimental effects of this arc are that over time, it causes the terminals to become dirty and pitted. Eventually, due to the dirt and pitting or, if something causes abnormally high current, the contacts could actually weld themselves closed either temporarily until some physical vibration jars them open, or sometimes they get permanently welded shut.

3.When power to the relay coil is removed by letting go of the key switch, the coil de-energizes and the magnetic field collapses, allowing the switch contacts to open by action if a spring. No arc or magnetic disturbance from an arc has anything to do with this. That’s how it works.

4.When the contacts open, another arc occurs as the starter circuit is broken. More dirt and pitting on the contacts is the result here.

Now you know, from an electrician with 41+ years of training and experience.

Yes, that's all correct, and thank you for clarifying.

Maybe I could have better described what I was trying to explain, for what to watch out for when swapping a starter relay.

Let's say that you swap the starter relay; and the three wiring connections are made. But the starter relay mounting bolt was NOT installed, and the metal mounting ear on the solenoid is touching, or close to, the metal apron (especially the raised bare area around where the missing mounting bolt was).

Turn the ignition key to "start", the S terminal gets voltage, and the coil can momentarily energize by finding ground where the mounting tab is touching the apron metal. This is where I used "arc", but I was referring to the coil, not the contact points. In other words, the coil can find enough ground through the contact point' to energize.

DC relays can get an "inductive lockup" if there's not a good grounding path when the S voltage is removed. That's the reason that a lot of DC relays have a resistor across the coil, to act as grounding shunt.

The earlier starter interrupt used years ago (1970s) in aftermarket car alarms used to have inductive lockup issues occur fairly often. A diode across the coil was the early fix for inductive lockup, but it was polarity-sensitive. The shunting diode was then replaced by a shunting resistor, in which it didn't matter which sides of the coil was positive or negative.

I've also seen over the years, starting circuit problems which were caused by the starter relay not being properly mounted, or grounded.

The main thing, is that the OP seems to have fixed the problem. That's what really matters!