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What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)


Got the Explorer tire fixed today so I put that on, while it was nosed into the shop I got on a creeper and looked at the front oxygen sensors, didn't nick a wire, it's just a bad sensor I guess... Also while down there I cranked on the torsion bars 3 turns a side for good measure to stop it from bottoming out... then pulled out the welder and welded on the drivers seat recline lever and trimmed the plastic handle so it doesn't get caught on as much stuff... then put the spare tire back in it's home...
 
Got the Explorer tire fixed today so I put that on, while it was nosed into the shop I got on a creeper and looked at the front oxygen sensors, didn't nick a wire, it's just a bad sensor I guess... Also while down there I cranked on the torsion bars 3 turns a side for good measure to stop it from bottoming out... then pulled out the welder and welded on the drivers seat recline lever and trimmed the plastic handle so it doesn't get caught on as much stuff... then put the spare tire back in it's home...
That darn seat lever has been on my list for a long time. If I fix that, I could get to me first aid kit and fire extinguisher a lot faster.
 
I installed a hidden winch just behind the lower front valance.

I bought a Vevor winch for $109.00. The price was right for 4,700 pounds of pull, plenty for a 3,000 pound regular cab pickup. Cheaper winches are out there, but this particular model came with a remote control and a synthetic cable. Synthetic is safer and never going to rust.

I purchased a piece of 1/4" steel (4"x31") to mount it and bolt it to the frame. It was a tight fit but everything tucked neatly underneath and behind. The mounting plate that came in the box served as a bracket to reinforce the fairlead and firm up the valance.
 

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that looks really good /\
 
I installed a hidden winch just behind the lower front valance.

I bought a Vevor winch for $109.00. The price was right for 4,700 pounds of pull, plenty for a 3,000 pound regular cab pickup. Cheaper winches are out there, but this particular model came with a remote control and a synthetic cable. Synthetic is safer and never going to rust.

I purchased a piece of 1/4" steel (4"x31") to mount it and bolt it to the frame. It was a tight fit but everything tucked neatly underneath and behind. The mounting plate that came in the box served as a bracket to reinforce the fairlead and firm up the valance.
4700 is low for a 3k vehicle.
The pull on a mired vehicle is equal to 150% of the static weight on a level surface. If it’s a 15° uphill pull, you’d be at about 175% (5250 lbs).
That 4700lb rating is also measured on the lowest row of the drum. Every row above that you lose about 5% of your pulling power.

I usually recommend that the winch be 2x the fully loaded weight of the vehicle.
 
and those pulleys for doubling the pull are nice also, but they cut down your distance
 
and those pulleys for doubling the pull are nice also, but they cut down your distance
That’s called a snatch block. They only double your pulling power in certain situations. They can also be used to redirect a pull.

You don’t worry about distance when you have enough cable:
51E05B52-B45F-45AC-A409-B8EEFBBEAF44.jpeg
 
I suppose that the size of a winch depends on your own particular needs. One winch company recommended 1.5 times the weight of your vehicle. Then again, most trucks do not have a winch at all.

I owned another truck for 20 years. It had a similar small winch. I used it maybe 4-5 times. The truck never got stuck, but I used it to pull my little Fiat a few times. I use truck occasionally on my son's farm. That winch worked just fine...FOR ME.
 
That’s called a snatch block. They only double your pulling power in certain situations. They can also be used to redirect a pull.

You don’t worry about distance when you have enough cable:
View attachment 84620
But that's not the vehicle you bring on our trail rides.
 
But that's not the vehicle you bring on our trail rides.
That things sucks on the trails… I think it’s the poor turning radius.
 
Did a little more poking around for a driveshaft with no real success. I got a pile of RBV driveshafts and nothing for the F-150. Go figure.

Decided to try and beat the original back to shape and tack weld a joint in for the time being but it started raining when I went outside. Went back inside and re-checked the weather since I was sure they didn’t say anything about rain today and sure enough I was still correct, nothing forecasted and nothing on the radar. But sure enough I was getting wet outside. Very strange, I thought I knew what rain was.

So it passed and the sun poked out but I didn’t trust it so I went back to the Ranger project since I already had a canopy up. Started trying to work on the coolant lines in between more rain. Cut the first piece of tube only to find I couldn’t get the fittings on and get it in the flaring tool and flared, so I had to make one long enough to do everything but short enough it didn’t run into the intake. Turned out pretty good I think. Went to start the other tube and kinked another bit of tube trying to bend it. I don’t have a tube bender for 5/8” tube, they cost around $100 apparently and I only need 3 bends so I wasn’t excited about buying one. Tried working it by hand and with the biggest bender I have and no luck. Tried using the smallest bending slot on a pipe vice and that was no good either. Might have to get serious and fill it with sand.
 
snatch block. thats it. couldn't remember the name of those things
 
@Lefty - that little quarter inch plate is going to twist up like a pretzel the first time you go to actually use that winch. If I did the math right, it has about 1/5 of the torsional rigidity it needs to handle 3700 lbs on the cable.
 

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