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AJE Ranger K-Member Who's Done It!?


My kit came with nylon locking nuts. Did have to buy a crap ton of washers so I could run them both sides.

okay I was wondering if I would be okay to just use the locking nutz that they provided or if some locktite for extra grip. Trucks looking amazing @n2xlr8n
 
okay I was wondering if I would be okay to just use the locking nutz that they provided or if some locktite for extra grip. Trucks looking amazing @n2xlr8n

Nylocks work excellent at preventing nuts from coming loose under heavy vibration. However, you can only take them on and off once or twice before the nylon insert gets worn out. Ideally they would only get used once.
 
Nylocks work excellent at preventing nuts from coming loose under heavy vibration. However, you can only take them on and off once or twice before the nylon insert gets worn out. Ideally they would only get used once.

much appreciated, that was my worry was if I went to take the bolts out that the nuts would have to be replaced cause the nylon would be to worn out. Putting some more parts on today and I stole an idea from someone else in here and got the baer brake kit it’ll be here sometime June
 
I need to weigh mine still. Weight distribution should be better than stock but not sure how much.
 
much appreciated, that was my worry was if I went to take the bolts out that the nuts would have to be replaced cause the nylon would be to worn out. Putting some more parts on today and I stole an idea from someone else in here and got the baer brake kit it’ll be here sometime June
Baer kit looks nice but 95 cobra brakes or even GT brakes are much cheaper and work great. My truck stops with authority with 95 cobra front and rear. Whole setup, (drilled/slotted rotors), new calipers, and pads was only $632. Entire brake system which is all new with Cobra Master, willwood prop valve, new hard lines and all braided lines was $1215. I ended up adding a sn95 ebrake system too with handle instead of the stock foot brake.
 
much appreciated, that was my worry was if I went to take the bolts out that the nuts would have to be replaced cause the nylon would be to worn out. Putting some more parts on today and I stole an idea from someone else in here and got the baer brake kit it’ll be here sometime June

I got a steal on the bear kit from a black friday sale, probably wouldn't have gone that route otherwise.

Baer kit looks nice but 95 cobra brakes or even GT brakes are much cheaper and work great. My truck stops with authority with 95 cobra front and rear. Whole setup, (drilled/slotted rotors), new calipers, and pads was only $632. Entire brake system which is all new with Cobra Master, willwood prop valve, new hard lines and all braided lines was $1215. I ended up adding a sn95 ebrake system too with handle instead of the stock foot brake.

What combination of master cylinder/brake booster are you running? Ranger booster w/ cobra master? How's the pedal feel and weight?
 
I got a steal on the bear kit from a black friday sale, probably wouldn't have gone that route otherwise.



What combination of master cylinder/brake booster are you running? Ranger booster w/ cobra master? How's the pedal feel and weight?

Down side to the cobra stuff is you have to run at least 17's. Not an issue for me but could be for some.

Yep Ranger booster with Cobra 15/16 bore Master. Honestly I'm not sure the master was even needed but the cobra master doesn't have a plug on the end of it which gets in the way of the AJE tower brace. Pedal feel is great. Feels stock I guess. Not too soft not too firm. The Cobra booster is the same size as the ranger. I have no idea if there's much difference between the two though.
 
BTW I'm running a 15:1 quick ratio unisteer steering rack. I might end up switching it out for the normal 20:1 ratio. Been driving the ranger more and more and I'm still not use to it. On the freeway especially have to be careful to make small movements. Starting to think there's just no reason to have it unless you were going to race the truck on a road course.
 
Down side to the cobra stuff is you have to run at least 17's. Not an issue for me but could be for some.

Yep Ranger booster with Cobra 15/16 bore Master. Honestly I'm not sure the master was even needed but the cobra master doesn't have a plug on the end of it which gets in the way of the AJE tower brace. Pedal feel is great. Feels stock I guess. Not too soft not too firm. The Cobra booster is the same size as the ranger. I have no idea if there's much difference between the two though.

That was another reason I went with the bear kit that I chose because apparently it can fit under a 15". I'll find out soon enough. Still waiting for my buddies shop to clear up before I can begin work but hopefully soon. Spoke with the engine builder and they're expecting a shipment of dart blocks by the end of June and hopefully mine will be in that batch!
 
I got a steal on the bear kit from a black friday sale, probably wouldn't have gone that route otherwise.



What combination of master cylinder/brake booster are you running? Ranger booster w/ cobra master? How's the pedal feel and weight?

I also got a good deal on the brake kit I did have my eyes on a standard upgraded s95 set for a decent price but the bear brakes were too damn good looking to pass up.

managed to bolt up the rack and hubs for a test fit. Should be able to run a steering linkage pretty easily.
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@Yotaismygame, what's causing the gap at the front bumper? Did you have to do a small body lift? Sorry if I missed it, it's been a while since I've read the whole thread.
 
@Yotaismygame, @n2xlr8n can I see some pics of your powersteering/brake booster setups? Trying to plan out what’s next and I’m scratching my head with this mustang rack attempting to figure out how to get power steering
 
@Yotaismygame, what's causing the gap at the front bumper? Did you have to do a small body lift? Sorry if I missed it, it's been a while since I've read the whole thread.
Front bumpers on these trucks are adjustable since the mounting points are slotted at an angle. Which isn't something I realized until after I installed it. Definitely not body lift. Although a body drop would be nice. Eventually ill get around to moving it up. My intercooler location makes it more work than I want to deal with right now.
 
@Yotaismygame, @n2xlr8n can I see some pics of your powersteering/brake booster setups? Trying to plan out what’s next and I’m scratching my head with this mustang rack attempting to figure out how to get power steering
I'm running Epas. I adapted a Saturn Vue unit to the Ranger Column with a manual rack. Pretty sure you said you are running all Ford stuff so anything I've done wont really correlate.

My booster is just the stock unit. Should be able to see it a few pages back.
 
@Yotaismygame, @n2xlr8n can I see some pics of your powersteering/brake booster setups? Trying to plan out what’s next and I’m scratching my head with this mustang rack attempting to figure out how to get power steering

I'm going Electric Hydraulic personally so that I'll only have to have an alternator and AC on the front drive to save space, but you could run a traditional 351W setup on the serpentine. I'd look into how people do 351w swaps into mustangs as that's more or less what you and I are doing.

I ordered a Volvo Power steering pump and the necessary AN fittings to convert to the rack and pump to 6AN. Be sure to use something that's rated for the proper pressures though. Something like this Electric Power Steering Conversion. I'll post all the exact part #'s and details when I begin to put it all together but DM me if you want to go that route and I can show you what I got.
 

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