Dropping the drive shaft

[muwaha]

Hey all,

I got a 91 Ranger Supercab that the Drive Shaft Center Bearing gave out on.

I got the part between the center bearing and rear off.

Can I just unscrew the nut on the drive shaft and slip the bearing off? Or do I need to drop the driveshaft between the transmission and center bearing?

If it's the latter, how do I slip it out of the transmission?

 

[RonD]

Yes, you need to remove the nut
Steps here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/carrier_bearing.shtml

That nut is torqued on at 120ft/lb

Many replace the 2 piece drive shaft with a one piece found on 1998 and up Ranger extended cabs
Seen here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/1-piece_driveshafts_and_why_you_want_one.shtml

 

[muwaha]

Thank you @RonD. Unfortunately I dont have the money for the straight piece even though I would love to convert.

I would assume that even the single piece would still need the center bearing correct?

 

[muwaha]

Based on that article. It didnt say I had to drop the shaft from the transmission, unless it was worded in a way I could understand it.

This is a part I'm ignorant on, would i be able to loosen a bolt at that torque? Or would I need an air gun?

My concern with using an air gun is that if I leave the drive shaft in the transmission that it will spin.

But at the same time I dont know how to slip the driveshaft out of the transmission

 

[RonD]

Unbolt the carrier bearing from cross member and the short part of drive line will just slide out of the rear of the 2WD transmission, but have a pan under it as it may/will leak some ATF out, not alot, but some
You can change that rear seal in trans, its not an expensive part

But....if you don't have a vise it might be easier to loosen that nut as is with trans in Park or in 1st gear

 

[muwaha]

@RonD

You can change that rear seal in trans, its not an expensive part

Do you mean the seal that is in the transmission that the driveshaft connects to?
If so, that thing is liked welded in, I can't get the sucker out. Is there a trick to get that seal out?

I got the bolt of the driveshaft too, but the wide piece that connects to the 2nd part isn't coming off. I've tried a hammer, twisting it and whatever else I can think of.

 

[RonD]

Google: replacing rear seal on transmission

Lots of videos
Yes, getting the old one out can take alot of prying, have to hold your tongue just right


Not sure what you are referring to on the other part
If you are trying to take the u-joint yolk off the shaft, put the nut back on so it is flush with end of shaft and hit it with a hammer

 

[muwaha]

Google: replacing rear seal on transmission

Lots of videos
Yes, getting the old one out can take alot of prying, have to hold your tongue just right


Not sure what you are referring to on the other part
If you are trying to take the u-joint yolk off the shaft, put the nut back on so it is flush with end of shaft and hit it with a hammer

Yea the yolk, I was watching a couple YouTube videos and one guy tooka claw around the yolk and pulled it.

Since I dont have a claw. I'll try your method

 

[Dirtman]

You use the claw/seal puller to remove the seal AFTER the driveshaft is pulled out of the transmission.

 

[RonD]

My method was removing yolk from shaft, nothing to do with rear seal, just to be clear

 

[Bgunner]

When I did mine I used a 2 jaw puller to pop off the yolk and the bearing. I suppose a 3 jaw would work also.

 

[don4331]

Thank you @RonD. Unfortunately I dont have the money for the straight piece even though I would love to convert.

I would assume that even the single piece would still need the center bearing correct?

You don't have $40 for the 1 piece driveshaft from Bama Parts there in Hazel Green?

And if you go with 1 piece shaft, you can ditch the center bearing and one u-joint.

 

[muwaha]

You don't have $40 for the 1 piece driveshaft from Bama Parts there in Hazel Green?

And if you go with 1 piece shaft, you can ditch the center bearing and one u-joint.

Not right now, I get paid next week.. I work from home too so my truck is just for errands.
Monthly bills take my whole paycheck at the beginning of the month.

 

[don4331]

Wasn't trying to be mean; just to point out they aren't arm & leg expensive, and are readily available.

 

[muwaha]

Wasn't trying to be mean; just to point out they aren't arm & leg expensive, and are readily available.

oh I understand, and thank you! I didn't take that in a harsh way. My brother loaned me the money to get it, so I'm giving them a call in a few minutes to see if they have one in stock.
Based on the research I've done with my 91 ford ranger, I don't think they've made a 1 piece for that year, I think the 1 piece started in 98? So would I need to ask for a 1 piece for 91? or 98 year?

If they do have it and I get it, would I just pop it in like the current one? or would I need to align the driveshaft a specific way? I have multiple markers on the current 2 piece driveshaft to ensure it goes in correct.
So if the 1 piece has to go in at a certain position so it turns properly, I want to make sure I do it right.

and I apologize for the questions, I'm ignorant when it comes to working on trucks but with me having ADHD, it's either me learn to fix by breaking it myself, or it breaking on it's own.
I'm trying to learn though.