1985 Bronco II starter grinding/spinning nightmare

[CyberCholo]

Hey guys, my little winter beater that has no been pressed into service as I have been forced to delay fixing my main vehicle has bbeen an absolute nightmare and money pit the last week or so.

I would like to preface by saying the flywheel teeth all look good I have checked them several times in this process.

Last tuesday morning I went to leave for work, starter was just spinning or maybe lightly grinding long story short after messing with wiring and stuff put a new starter in and that lasted me about a week, although I noticed it still sounded kind of whiney like the engagement was off.

Sunday I get stuck at the store, same problem. I figure it has to be the solenoid so change that, nothing. So I pull the starter in the parking lot and everything looks ok. Buy another starter figuring the reman I got was bad slap it in it at home, truck runs fine until yesterday morning.

Call in sick take the first starter I got back, guy says its fine and gives me another one. I go home, replace the wire from the battery to the solenoid, clean up some grounds and stuff put that starter in, truck starts fine a few times but then grinds again. I put a jump box on the battery and wiggle the main starter wire, I get it to start, and then start again. Let it sit, grinds. Put the jump box on give it a second, wiggle the wire a nd let it roll a bit in gear, fires right up. This morning? Nothing.

Call in sick again, figure its a a weak battery not putting out enough draw or something, go get a new battery and alternator, same problem. Replace the wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter and replace the negative terminal wire, relocate it to the alternator bracket with a good clean ground, and remove the 3 or 4 weird extra grounds a p/o put on the the negative terminal, same problem. Go buy a new solenoid, same problem.

Mess around and check the voltage on the small wire that goes to the S terminal and realize it only has 2 volts when the key is on, so im assuming that means I have bad ignition switch, while messing around and checking the wiring some how the solenoid sticks out of nowhere and grinds the starter for probably 30 seconds straight until I was able to loosen and remove a connection why this happened I have no idea.

At this point I decided to call it a night and basically give up and comtemplate setting this thing on fire.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Sounds like the solenoid wire may have a short in it somewhere, but I also haven’t had my coffee yet, lol


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[fastpakr]

For what it's worth, there was an issue years ago with some of the 2.8 starters having the wrong number of teeth on the Bendix gear. 18 vs 19 comes to mind, but these are -ancient- memories.

Random possibly useful links from a quick search:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/...-drive-or-bendix-gear-where-do-i-find-it.html
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34430
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116523

I think the proper part number you want is SD-386.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=SD386

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If the starter is pulling a lot of current it can stick the relay which sticks the starter, I fought that years ago. Changing starters and relays made no difference for me, I think my ring gear was shot. Having the wrong starter drive could give similar results.

 

[CyberCholo]

Yeah I was thinking the solenoid wire could be the issue, would that cause a similar problem to this? I tried tracing it back but it goes into a loom and heads off way to the other side of the truck and looks like it would be a total nightmare to try and trace back. Would it be possible just to replace the wire from a different source?

Ive read about the starter teeth, some people say that the need 10 teeth and to pull one off an escort starter or something? It seems weird that the starters always work new though and in my case seemingly working again after fiddling with wiring, could be a bit of both though.

I pulled the solenoid that stuck out and noticed I couldnt hear anything inside when i shook it, i put my old one back in and didnt notice any issues that one i could hear wiggle inside.

I have an appointment at a shop near my work (half an hour away) tomorrow to get some tranny work done, already ahd to reschedule once due to this problem, but not really sure if I want to dump the money into a tow and now a mechanic for two problems, thinking about getting rid of the truck tbh now.

 

[Terry]

I went thru the same hell. Bad news is the plate between the trans and motor is messed up. After you tighten it it starts. The big hole in the plate is worn to a point where no matter how much you tighten the bolts the starter will move away from the ring gear. You can dump money into it and check everything but it won't go away until you replace the plate.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

Mine did it a lot, in 2011 I replaced the engine (with a bigger one) and obviously the flexplate and everything else too. It has never ever done it since. Same wire, same keyswitch and same relay that the 2.8 had.

Dunno about the separator plate, my starter was never loose. Even after running with the engine it was always tight to the bellhousing.

 

[Terry]

Mine did it a lot, in 2011 I replaced the engine (with a bigger one) and obviously the flexplate and everything else too. It has never ever done it since. Same wire, same keyswitch and same relay that the 2.8 had.

Dunno about the separator plate, my starter was never loose. Even after running with the engine it was always tight to the bellhousing.

Mine was tight as well but it was still moving. I got a good plate from one of the moderators on this site. I replaced it ad it fixed the problem. I measured my old plate and my new to me one with a caliper and the problem one was not round at the hole. I put a new flywheel, starter and until I changed the plate it kept returning.

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[CyberCholo]

I've heard of people putting longer bolts and even nuts on the back I tried new slightly longer bolts anyway to tell if my plate is bad? One more question on the starter cable hookup there's two parts a copper part and a steel part under it with the threads does the cable have to touch both parts? The original cable has a little fold on the side so it touches on the side too my new one doesn't just a round hookup, could that be an issue?

 

[CyberCholo]

Can anyone confirm or deny if the starter wire has to be touching both the brass part and the steel looking part that the threads for the bolt are in to work properly? Im trying to sell the truck this weekend but would get a lot more for it if it starts haha.

 

[wildbill23c]

Just need to have the wires on the post, don't have to be touching the brass & steel part just on the starter post itself and tight.

Went through the same issue with my 84 Bronco 2 finally got tired of it and scrapped the damn thing. My 88 Bronco 2 seems to be fine, just other engine problems that may send it to the scrap yard.

 

[enginepaul]

I didn't read the whole thread, so if these answers were given, my apologies.

I'm not sure what you mean about the wire - bolt threads thing but you need good, solid contact at all connections. Starters use lots of amps so connections need to be clean and good

As for the small red wire to the solenoid, that is the ignition switch voltage that triggers the solenoid. Not heavy amps, 12V only when cranking. To test if the solenoid coil is bad (that's what the start voltage from the ignition triggers) - after being sure your truck is in neutral - just jump that terminal with +12v and it should turn the starter. You should also hear a click.

Changing the starter gear works, it makes up for slight miss-alignment. I got the part number and info from this site; just do a search.

The engine plate is a pain to change, but I once cut one up and put in just the starter section and it worked fine. I think the other starter gear will solve the problem 9 times out of ten.

Missing ring gear teeth can only be fixed by pulling the tranny and installing a new flywheel. All flywhels are made in China and I went through the whole ordeal to put in a faulty flywheel so if you go that route check VERY carefully before putting things back together.

 

[Bigcrafter]

Hey if you have any starter problems I found that you can use Part No. SD353 for your starter. You just have to switch it out. Mine was grinding really bad and took some spots off the fly wheel. But I put that one in the starter and it took care of it. It starts like it is brand new. It is a 11 tooth part to but work great. Advance auto parts was the only one who had it.

 

[MadMax_636]

Hey guys, my little winter beater that has no been pressed into service as I have been forced to delay fixing my main vehicle has bbeen an absolute nightmare and money pit the last week or so.

I would like to preface by saying the flywheel teeth all look good I have checked them several times in this process.

Last tuesday morning I went to leave for work, starter was just spinning or maybe lightly grinding long story short after messing with wiring and stuff put a new starter in and that lasted me about a week, although I noticed it still sounded kind of whiney like the engagement was off.

Sunday I get stuck at the store, same problem. I figure it has to be the solenoid so change that, nothing. So I pull the starter in the parking lot and everything looks ok. Buy another starter figuring the reman I got was bad slap it in it at home, truck runs fine until yesterday morning.

Call in sick take the first starter I got back, guy says its fine and gives me another one. I go home, replace the wire from the battery to the solenoid, clean up some grounds and stuff put that starter in, truck starts fine a few times but then grinds again. I put a jump box on the battery and wiggle the main starter wire, I get it to start, and then start again. Let it sit, grinds. Put the jump box on give it a second, wiggle the wire a nd let it roll a bit in gear, fires right up. This morning? Nothing.

Call in sick again, figure its a a weak battery not putting out enough draw or something, go get a new battery and alternator, same problem. Replace the wire that goes from the solenoid to the starter and replace the negative terminal wire, relocate it to the alternator bracket with a good clean ground, and remove the 3 or 4 weird extra grounds a p/o put on the the negative terminal, same problem. Go buy a new solenoid, same problem.

Mess around and check the voltage on the small wire that goes to the S terminal and realize it only has 2 volts when the key is on, so im assuming that means I have bad ignition switch, while messing around and checking the wiring some how the solenoid sticks out of nowhere and grinds the starter for probably 30 seconds straight until I was able to loosen and remove a connection why this happened I have no idea.

At this point I decided to call it a night and basically give up and comtemplate setting this thing on fire.

Ive had similar issues with my 84 ranger v6 starter.

What you wanna do is get onto rockauto and get a BRAND new starter, go to napa and get the 3 point solenoid, and for the ring gear/mounting. Want you wanna do if you have a through-bolt is mount it and tap the starter closer to the direction of the ring gear and them tighten it down until you dont hear any movement.

 

[Bigcrafter]

Part No. SD353