The most stuck lug nuts ever- help

[jcsonderegger]

Rex2nr, yes we did try those towards the beginning. It actually worked on a different lug, which was nice, but didn't do anything for these two. Thanks for the suggestion though

 

[jcsonderegger]

Well, we did get the wheel off....

 

[fyre82]

If you really want to go with spacers, I have a set available . . .

Rich

 

[jcsonderegger]

I actually originally had spacers on the fronts, and no longer need mine. But thanks for the offer, fyre82

 

[Mark_88]

wow...my brother just had to do something similar on his Toyota...I suggested a cutoff wheel and that almost worked...except he had to drill out the stud.

With that style of rim it makes it very hard to do anything other than what you did...

At one point I used to put white lithium grease on the studs before putting the lug nuts on...never had a problem removing lug nuts with that stuff on there...

Never heard anyone say anything different as to how useful that is...or if other products would work any better...

Anyone else do anything to help prevent your nuts from sticking?

 

[jcsonderegger]

Mark_88 you know, I think a relative of mine was telling me the same thing. After the pain this one caused, I am definitely in search of anything that will help me make it so I don't have to deal with this again. Besides white lithium grease, I think I read somewhere to use some sort of graphite lubricant, but that seems like it would be TOO loose... Anyone got any ideas for that?

 

[Hagan]

Mark_88 you know, I think a relative of mine was telling me the same thing. After the pain this one caused, I am definitely in search of anything that will help me make it so I don't have to deal with this again. Besides white lithium grease, I think I read somewhere to use some sort of graphite lubricant, but that seems like it would be TOO loose... Anyone got any ideas for that?

What about anti-seize? Isn't what that stuff is made for?

 

[AllanD]

I've been using Never-seeze on my lugnuts for ~30years and have never had lugs back off.

They won't back off if properly tightened.

The usual lug-nut problem is on rangers with the factory lug-nuts used early on

The type that has a thin nut covered with an even thinner stainless steel cover.
Those nuts typically rust and split the stainless steel cover and then are an absolute SOB to remove

I usually torch them off , withn the expectation of sacrificing the wheel and the stud,
but I have tried some "other methods"

One of the most interesting that I've employed used a charming combination of Acetone and Nitroglycerine,
time and percussion along with a small pile of sand-bags to contain the expected flying steel fragments.

Nitro is kinda viscous so the acetone is used as a volatile "Carrier" to get it into where it'll do

This only involved about 1/2 teaspoon of nitroglycerine, but that stuff has real power...

This removed the nut in several pieces, one of which I had to remove from where it was deeply imbedded in
a piece of 6x6 by burning the piece of wood it also broke the wheel.

If the nut is rusted on I've employed Hydrochloric acid dripped full strength often with some Ethanol or Acetone to
help it "wick-in" to where it can do some good, but only with steel wheels
(Hydrochloric acid dissolves rust)

But as a note the chemical formed by using hydrochloric acid to remove rust, Ferric (III) Chloride is a distinctive
bright yellow color and is itself incredibly corrosive to Copper and Nickel as well as to most common alloys of each
as well as Aluminum, Magnesium and Zinc.

So even fully "spent" Hydrochloric acid is still aggressively to the metals listed as well as others.

I would dump a bunch of baking soda in any acid you are getting rid of before disposal.

AD

 

[Mark_88]

Mark_88 you know, I think a relative of mine was telling me the same thing. After the pain this one caused, I am definitely in search of anything that will help me make it so I don't have to deal with this again. Besides white lithium grease, I think I read somewhere to use some sort of graphite lubricant, but that seems like it would be TOO loose... Anyone got any ideas for that?

What about anti-seize? Isn't what that stuff is made for?

Well, that is correct...lol...

I've never used it but eventually bought a tube of it...still have it somewhere...and still have my original tube of lithium grease...I bought one of the long tubes...

One of the most interesting that I've employed used a charming combination of Acetone and Nitroglycerine,
time and percussion along with a small pile of sand-bags to contain the expected flying steel fragments.

Nitro is kinda viscous so the acetone is used as a volatile "Carrier" to get it into where it'll do

This only involved about 1/2 teaspoon of nitroglycerine, but that stuff has real power...

This removed the nut in several pieces, one of which I had to remove from where it was deeply imbedded in
a piece of 6x6 by burning the piece of wood it also broke the wheel.

AD

I'm sure you have enough knowledge and experience with this stuff that you would know what precautions to take...or learned as you went...

The sandbags would be my first line of defense...but I'd be afraid of not being able to run fast enough to get out of the way of flying stuff...and pretty certain I'd end up replacing the entire side of the truck...or worse...

I do recall trying to remove the body of my first Ranger with a torch and setting the rubber in the mounts on fire and thinking "oh, great, I'm going to destroy my truck..."

Fortunately, there wasn't as much rubber as I thought and manged to douse the flames...

 

[black_demon69]

wow...my brother just had to do something similar on his Toyota...I suggested a cutoff wheel and that almost worked...except he had to drill out the stud.

With that style of rim it makes it very hard to do anything other than what you did...

At one point I used to put white lithium grease on the studs before putting the lug nuts on...never had a problem removing lug nuts with that stuff on there...

Never heard anyone say anything different as to how useful that is...or if other products would work any better...

Anyone else do anything to help prevent your nuts from sticking?

antiseize

 

[Doofy]

I have used a small dab of anti-seize on my wheel studs for about 30 years now and have never had any problems. Need to re apply every 5 or 6 years. Great stuff!

 

[jcsonderegger]

Done!

After deciding this wheel meant less to me than finishing the project, we hacked it off with a Harbor Freight reciprocating saw. Once we got all the spokes cut, we still had the center of the wheel stuck on there but we were able to cut through the two problem studs in between the spacer and original hub. It took a little bit, but went way faster than the drilling. Had I been more interested in saving the wheel, I would have absolutely kept drilling, and I appreciate everyone who encouraged me to do so. But the need for my truck to roll down the freeway after several weeks of it sitting in the driveway outweighed the wheel. Next time though.

Anyways, here are some pictures of the new wheels and tires which I'm very happy with. Feel free to move this post to the "impatience dominating proper technique" section of the forums.

Thank you all again very much for the input and help.

Christian

 

[Doofy]

Whew! Bet it feels good to get that project done. Sometimes you get that old bear but sometimes that old bear gets you. Looks good now.

 

[jcsonderegger]

Thank you so much, Doofy. And yes, I do feel fantastic.

 

[Andy D]

I had 3 studs lose their grip in the hub. The nuts had been over torqued to the point of stretching enough to make removing difficult. I managed to snap one stud with a hammer. Too violent. I used 4 1/8 cobalt bits in a very tired 3/8 corded drill. 2 holes 180" apart on the face of the nut.Lots of oil. Holding the drill level and not forcing the the drill. I buy 1/8 by the 10 pack at Lowes Or HF. Then I split the nut. with a small cold chisel. I replaced 8 acorn nuts for the 15" deer foot wheels. I used Loc-tite and I prick punched the around the circumference to tighten up the hole. The '94 uses 1/2 wheel studs. I got all 3 Chinese studs and 2 piece nuts I needed for to replace the on the front. for about 15 bucks. Time spent, about 6 hrs. Much time was spent trying things that didnt work. Drilling 2 holes per nut down close to the stud.. Sharp bits, oil frequent stops to cool the drill and to wash out chips with oil, letting the drill do the work. Your job is hold the drill straight and to oil the work.Not to push the drill.