Reduced to crutches, then left in the woods.

[Hahnsb2]

Glad you got it out! I hope this doesn't come off as arrogant or anything since I'm no fab expert but I did question the structural integrity of that spot in the arms but figured they'd be fine, it really sucks they left you stranded, but live and learn, right?

 

[LIMA BEAN]

Right on man glad you got it out, Kubota rules the day and great pics.

 

[compleckz]

im glad its out! thanks for the IM lol

 

[Dishtowel]

Glad you got it out! I hope this doesn't come off as arrogant or anything since I'm no fab expert but I did question the structural integrity of that spot in the arms but figured they'd be fine, it really sucks they left you stranded, but live and learn, right?

Yes and no. I believe they would have been fine if all I did was extend them with the hex shaft. I turned that hex shaft down to be a perfect fit for where that threaded pin used to live at the back of the rad arm, and welded it in. 100% as strong (or stronger) as the stock arm.

BUT;
this left me with badbad caster on my steering tires. (Not that my steering is anything near nice, lol. well at least it clears lots of logs...?) SO, to cure that I used our press to make the bottom edge nearly straight, and give me correct caster. If you look at this picture it shows the 'nearly straight' bottom edge. In doing this I stress the material. I couldn't see anything to be worried about, and I must have forgotten about reinforcing them, and payed for it. As I was driving out to retrieve it today I was thinking about all the loading the radius arms handle. It is quite abit!! They take all the forward/backward loading from the tire, and they keep the axle from rotating vs the tire! I just had never thought about it critically before. I feel kinda silly now, lol. Whateve', like you said, live and learn!

 

[Sunk]

Wow that tractor is bigger than I was thinking. I'm not surprised it got the job done. Good to hear ya got it out!

 

[PaleBlue90]

glad you got it out. time for some rethinking on ur set up

 

[4x4junkie]

x5 or 6 or whatever

Glad to see everything's out in one piece (well 'cept for the arm lol). Looks like the d-side beam might be twisted too? hard to tell if it's just sitting like that

I have to agree with Hahns. Lop the whole end off that arm and put the tube INSIDE the "c" part of the arm when you redo it (take a look at my arms on my Cardomain page if you need a reference). I'd step up the tube size too (or at the very least, the long vertical gusset along the top of it to reinforce it). As you've realized, the arms do take a beating, the ENTIRE torqueload from the front differential turning is supported by the driverside arm alone.

Good luck on the rebuild <--- probably need a couple of those after all that lol

 

[Will]

Yeah, I didn't realize Kubota made a monster like that. When people say "I've got a Kubota," I think 20hp B-something.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Glad to hear you got it out, looks like it went fairly smooth (won't watch the video until tonight though.)

Yeah, I didn't realize Kubota made a monster like that. When people say "I've got a Kubota," I think 20hp B-something.

Kabota has been really busting out of the utility tractor market, it seems they are wanting to squarely lock horns with Deere and everybody else with fullsize tractors, sort of like Toyota/Honda vs the Big 3 did in the car world. I have heard they have bigger ones yet in the works.

 

[metalmacguyver]

Thanks for the vid. That tractor has got some Bawlz!

Glad your out man with no vandalism to deal with either!

 

[Dishtowel]

Yeah, I didn't realize Kubota made a monster like that. When people say "I've got a Kubota," I think 20hp B-something.

115 hp inline 5. 8 speed shuttle shift, with this neat steering feature. 3 modes: A= 2wd , B= 4wd, C= 4wd plus (when you turn past 20deg the front wheels do 1.5times your ground speed to make your corner tight. we rarely use this thought) I REALLY want to find the front axle off a 60-90 hp Kabota tractor and put it up front. Insane strong, electric diff lock, and DROP DOWN BEVEL DRIVES = incredible steering angle + incredible clearance! 3-link that out infront of the engine cross member and lets see what I can get throught!! (we have a farm equipment junk yard 1/2 drive away, I have been meaning to go for a stroll!)

Thanks for the vid. That tractor has got some Bawlz!

Glad your out man with no vandalism to deal with either!

Yes, yes it does have Bawlz. I have yet to get it stuck. I have got the big 4wd stuck, but not the Kabota. lol. I am also very happy it didnt get found out there!

Yes and no. I believe they would have been fine if all I did was extend them with the hex shaft. I turned that hex shaft down to be a perfect fit for where that threaded pin used to live at the back of the rad arm, and welded it in. 100% as strong (or stronger) as the stock arm.

+

glad you got it out. time for some rethinking on ur set up

+

I have to agree with Hahns. Lop the whole end off that arm and put the tube INSIDE the "c" part of the arm when you redo it (take a look at my arms on my Cardomain page if you need a reference). I'd step up the tube size too (or at the very least, the long vertical gusset along the top of it to reinforce it).

=

Dudes. My hex-to-C'shape is strong. It's because I bent it that it broke. Perhaps these pics will explain. I used this press to straighten it as mentioned above. The shaft that is flush with the break is the hex shaft that I turned down on the lathe to fit into the c'shape. The stock rad arm only had the 1 strip of weld length wise, I have that, plus a weld around the hex where it steps up to c'shape.

What I added to the rad arm did not break. The ford part broke because I changed it abit.

See?

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

115 hp inline 5. 8 speed shuttle shift, with this neat steering feature. 3 modes: A= 2wd , B= 4wd, C= 4wd plus (when you turn past 20deg the front wheels do 1.5times your ground speed to make your corner tight. we rarely use this thought) I REALLY want to find the front axle off a 60-90 hp Kabota tractor and put it up front. Insane strong, electric diff lock, and DROP DOWN BEVEL DRIVES = incredible steering angle + incredible clearance! 3-link that out infront of the engine cross member and lets see what I can get throught!! (we have a farm equipment junk yard 1/2 drive away, I have been meaning to go for a stroll!)

The drop down drives also keep the CG pretty high, many a farmer has been killed when his drop down tractor tipped over on him (A-C's like mine, older Farmall's...) Something to keep in mind before you stick them in your BII. Otherwise they are huge help for clearance.

Both my C and my WD-45 has them, you can kind of see how the axle shaft doesn't match with the wheel hub on the '45:

http://memimage.cardomain.com/member_images/3/web/291000-291999/291515_29_full.jpg

I have pondered a rear hydraulic drive/steer axle out of a combine in a truck, four way steer anyone?

 

[Dishtowel]

I have pondered a rear hydraulic drive/steer axle out of a combine in a truck, four way steer anyone?

Would make a wicked awesome buggy! I dream about a small diesel powering a good hydrostatic drive. You could have insane clearance with drop down drives out a swather or something and you would have the best rock crawler ever. But that would be alot of work, lol. One day.......

 

[Boggin]

glad its out, and good job, and thanks for the vids/pics!

 

[4x4junkie]

115 hp inline 5. 8 speed shuttle shift, with this neat steering feature. 3 modes: A= 2wd , B= 4wd, C= 4wd plus (when you turn past 20deg the front wheels do 1.5times your ground speed to make your corner tight. we rarely use this thought) I REALLY want to find the front axle off a 60-90 hp Kabota tractor and put it up front. Insane strong, electric diff lock, and DROP DOWN BEVEL DRIVES = incredible steering angle + incredible clearance! 3-link that out infront of the engine cross member and lets see what I can get throught!! (we have a farm equipment junk yard 1/2 drive away, I have been meaning to go for a stroll!)


Yes, yes it does have Bawlz. I have yet to get it stuck. I have got the big 4wd stuck, but not the Kabota. lol. I am also very happy it didnt get found out there!




+

+


=

Dudes. My hex-to-C'shape is strong. It's because I bent it that it broke. Perhaps these pics will explain. I used this press to straighten it as mentioned above. The shaft that is flush with the break is the hex shaft that I turned down on the lathe to fit into the c'shape. The stock rad arm only had the 1 strip of weld length wise, I have that, plus a weld around the hex where it steps up to c'shape.

What I added to the rad arm did not break. The ford part broke because I changed it abit.

See?

Well, I don't want to sound like I'm over-criticizing, but it broke because that part of the arm is
much too small, the fact you "changed" it afterward only helped it along.
Extending them puts a huge bending moment right in that spot. If you don't cut the stock arm
back and weld the tube into where the arm is thicker, you get a concentration
of force right there, and is why it broke.

Now that I see you holding it in your hand, that hex looks even smaller than I originally thought. You
should have something at least 1.75" dia. (preferably 2") to stand up to the load it sees (if you
don't wish to use bigger tubing, then maybe use two tubes so it's triangulated.
Then you could probably get away with using that hex stuff without fear of having this issue repeat itself).