One more 2wd 98 coil spring 5.0 swap.

[Jbrown1238]

I dunno about your hood or firewall clearance, but the fit between the oil pan and steering rack looks a bit tight, even with the washers.

Kinda like a $10 bill will just slide in there, but a $20 won't fit.

Yes, still a little closer than I would like. I ended up with about 3/8 of an inch give or take. I am going see what I have once the transmission is tied in and the engine is sitting in its permanent position. If it needs a little more attention I will make final adjustments then.

 

[Jbrown1238]

Yes, you can delete the pats via SCT. Im running a 99 ecu (EQE2) with pats, rear O2's, and EGR deleted using excal2 SCT tuner. Looks great. Your engine should be right up against the firewall for rad clearance...

SVT

Thanks for the info. At first I plan to run the EGR but no PATS of rear O2's. I may shut down the EGR at a later time. Yes, almost right up against the firewall saving all the excess space for the front.

 

[Jbrown1238]

I ended up taking yesterday off from working on the Ranger. I figured since I spent so much time on it over the weekend I deserved some R&R. But today I was right back at it. I tucked a few shop rags between the engine and the firewall and then tilted it back as far as I could while it was tied into the motor mounts. That gave me plenty of clearance when working below. Then I moved under the truck and installed the pilot bearing, bell housing spacer, and flywheel.





Once the flywheel was torqued down to 82 ft/lbs I moved forward with the clutch disc and pressure plate. After centering the clutch disc with an alignment tool I torqued the pressure plate to 22 ft/lbs and then removed the alignment tool.



Then I positioned the bell housing and snugged up the ARP fasteners for a test fit.



After sliding a piece of wood into place under the bell housing to help support the engine assembly at the desired angel I moved back up top to check my clearance on all four sides.





Everything looks good so far and the engine should be very close to its final resting spot. I hope to cut the hole for the shifter tomorrow and tighten down the bell housing bolts then slide the transmission and cross member into place. Once this has been completed I should be able to dial in the exact position for the engine/transmission and lock everything into place.

 

[RangerSVT]

You must have bought stock in ARP fasteners. Do you know how much you invested in the fasteners. The bolt heads alone are pure sex! Looking great as always...

SVT

 

[Jbrown1238]

You must have bought stock in ARP fasteners. Do you know how much you invested in the fasteners. The bolt heads alone are pure sex! Looking great as always...

SVT

It all started with the ARP connecting rod cap screws. I really liked the look of the 12 pt. fasteners and happen to find a user friendly internet source that ships them right to your door. I needed so many fasteners it just made since to take the easy road and order them as I went. How much, I am afraid to even think about it!

 

[RangerSVT]

Summit racing? My guess is at least $200...

SVT

 

[Jbrown1238]

Summit racing? My guess is at least $200...

SVT

Allen's Fasteners, oh yes, at the very least!

http://www.allensfasteners.com/sear...&subcat=192&txtsearchParamCat=61&txtCatName=2

 

[onlyme]

That truck is more than a resto, it's a work of art, that thing should be featured in a magazine, or at least draw the attention of Ford to it's fine detail work, it's awesome.

 

[Jbrown1238]

The hole for the shifter was outlined and then cut with a grinder after careful measurements were collected. Then the transmission was raised into place and torqued to spec.











Now focus turns to adapting the cross member, transmission mount, and transmission plate to fit the new application. Everything lined up very close so the process should be fairly straight forward. I am pretty sure minor modification to the custom plate will be all that is required for a perfect fit.

 

[Jbrown1238]

That truck is more than a resto, it's a work of art, that thing should be featured in a magazine, or at least draw the attention of Ford to it's fine detail work, it's awesome.

Thank you very much for the kind words. It has been an adventure and I have been very lucky so far. Now we are entering Hurricane season and I hope that doesn't slow the progress over the next few months. It would have been a lot easier doing a job like this inside but I guess you have to work with what you have. So far, other than building the engine inside a 12 x 12 barn, everything has been done outside and the only air tools used were a DA sander and a paint gun. Every nut and bolt has been turned by hand.

 

[onlyme]

Wow that is dedication, I wish I had your painting skills.

 

[dzrt_ranger]

Awesome work. I'm in the progress of researching to do a v8 swap. I picked up a 98 explorer as a donor. Let me know how you work around that oil pan almost hitting. Also you couldn't keep the oil filter in the same location? I'm also struggling on the PATS. I'm going to go to an electrical shop to see if they could disable it

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

 

[Jbrown1238]

Awesome work. I'm in the progress of researching to do a v8 swap. I picked up a 98 explorer as a donor. Let me know how you work around that oil pan almost hitting. Also you couldn't keep the oil filter in the same location? I'm also struggling on the PATS. I'm going to go to an electrical shop to see if they could disable it

Sent from my LG-D801 using Tapatalk

I used a small stack of washers on top of each engine plate temporarily to raise the engine slightly to allow for the desired clearance. I plan to remove the engine plates once everything else has been completed and cut permanent spacers to allow for the same amount of clearance as the washers. I will then have those spacers welded to the engine plates.

I could have kept the oil filter in the same location as the Explorer. However, I did not realize this until after I had tossed the adapter. I also wanted to have the oil filter in front of the driver side wheel to make it easier to change the oil. I had this set up on my first V8 Ranger and it worked very well.

I plan to turn the PATS off with a SCT Tuner.

 

[dzrt_ranger]

Do you thinking adding a mustang oil pan will be pretty much bolt and go and have enough clearance? I could make the adaptor plates no problem. And yea I might just relocate the filter. Which relocator did you use?? I'm gonna go around to shops and ask if they can disable pats for me

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[RangerSVT]

Do you thinking adding a mustang oil pan will be pretty much bolt and go and have enough clearance? I could make the adaptor plates no problem. And yea I might just relocate the filter. Which relocator did you use?? I'm gonna go around to shops and ask if they can disable pats for me

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Only three ways to get around pats, get the modules & ecu from the same donor and wire them in, delete pats via aftermarket tuner (like brown and I did), or in your case you are using a 98, which means you are using the return fuel system, just use a 96-97 ecu...

SVT