disciplerocks's B2 build thread

[disciplerocks]

 

[escort_gts]

I will have to check my brothers truck. His f250 should have the d50.

 

[kroussinoffroad]

Very very sorry

 

[disciplerocks]

Interesting stuff. I knew the spindle nuts were interchangeable, but didn't know the bearings were the same diameter.

They must have changed the spindle over the years though. It seems the 6 bolt one is more common.

Plus I found this link with the 5 bolt one I was talking about.
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47420

 

[kroussinoffroad]

WHOA WHOA WHOA!!! scratch all that above. i just read thru the link and surfed thru a couple of other links. then i sprinted out to the mazda and realized that the SMALLER HUB PICTURED IS NOT A 35 SPINDLE!!!! however it is the smaller pattern that everyone is after.


will be deleting it down I am VERY sorry for the wrong tech!! i now am very curious what that spindle came from since all my spare's are boxed and tagged these were up on a shelf untaged and had the smaller bolt pattern so i assumed it was a 35 spindle since i just rescently stated tagging/ labeling parts. now if i could just find the matching spindle

 

[freckles]

H'lo! I've read back from early November, and can't see where you decided on a shifter for the doubler. If you DO try the cable shifter, a pump shift or PTO cable (same thing with different handles), as used in farm truck hydraulics is what you're looking for. They perform work both directions, can be locked in a position with a 1/4 turn of the handle, and are bullet-proof unless they get kinked. Then you start over...ask how I know...
Anyway, when I was installing farm truck hydraulics, the cables ran about USD 25.00; they're prolly pushing 40.00 now. They're readily available in lengths up to about 25 feet, and custom to about 50, but those get really unwieldy to install. When you're figuring how long a cable to start with, go long if you're estimating. We used 10 footers for the PTO (usually) and 20 for the pump, and cut them as needed. The PTO cables usually ended up about 8 feet, and the pumps varied wildly according to where the pump and tank were mounted. They were anywhere from 12-20 feet
For those who doubt whether they can move a t-case shift lever, you should know that we also used them to shift the PTO's in and out of gear, with both the pump shift and PTO shift mounted on a plate bolted to the dash.
On a related note, ask where you buy the cable, if they have any shift levers either left over or extra. That will save you some fab work in getting the cable connection right. Just a thought.

Great job on the doubler, by the way. It looks very good indeed!

 

[disciplerocks]

I am using the stock shifter for the doubler case and i just reach under and manually shift the rear electric case. Not too worried about it.

And Kevin, its cool. I had not seen anything like that in my research, but I also had not come across anything that old.

 

[escort_gts]

H'lo! I've read back from early November, and can't see where you decided on a shifter for the doubler. If you DO try the cable shifter, a pump shift or PTO cable (same thing with different handles), as used in farm truck hydraulics is what you're looking for. They perform work both directions, can be locked in a position with a 1/4 turn of the handle, and are bullet-proof unless they get kinked. Then you start over...ask how I know...
Anyway, when I was installing farm truck hydraulics, the cables ran about USD 25.00; they're prolly pushing 40.00 now. They're readily available in lengths up to about 25 feet, and custom to about 50, but those get really unwieldy to install. When you're figuring how long a cable to start with, go long if you're estimating. We used 10 footers for the PTO (usually) and 20 for the pump, and cut them as needed. The PTO cables usually ended up about 8 feet, and the pumps varied wildly according to where the pump and tank were mounted. They were anywhere from 12-20 feet
For those who doubt whether they can move a t-case shift lever, you should know that we also used them to shift the PTO's in and out of gear, with both the pump shift and PTO shift mounted on a plate bolted to the dash.
On a related note, ask where you buy the cable, if they have any shift levers either left over or extra. That will save you some fab work in getting the cable connection right. Just a thought.

Great job on the doubler, by the way. It looks very good indeed!

Thanks, thats good info. I might end up doing something like that if I swap to a 1354E.

 

[disciplerocks]

Ok so apparently the older F250s had a D44HD and the newer ones were D50, but they all had the short beams.

 

[disciplerocks]

Went to leave for the u-pull this morning and the radiator decided to crack. So I pulled it back in the driveway and swapped it out real quick.

Then I was having something weird going on with my brakes so I pulled the wheel and took a gander. Rear bearing had apparently been bad for awhile. Maybe that was my problem and not my ball joints. Aint been a good few days for the B2.

This bearing is now a permanent resident

 

[Bray D]

I swear I could repack the wheelbearings with my eyes closed when I had the d35. I checked them OFTEN.

 

[86 slo-vo]

I had one do the same

 

[disciplerocks]

http://evansville.craigslist.org/pts/2781817592.html

 

[86 slo-vo]

Probably passenger drop.

 

[Jay'94]

Went to leave for the u-pull this morning and the radiator decided to crack. So I pulled it back in the driveway and swapped it out real quick.

Then I was having something weird going on with my brakes so I pulled the wheel and took a gander. Rear bearing had apparently been bad for awhile. Maybe that was my problem and not my ball joints. Aint been a good few days for the B2.

This bearing is now a permanent resident

I had one of those. Pulled maintenance, went to TB, had a bad run/day, limped it home, let it sit, went to fix all that went wrong and had to beat the hell out of it to get it apart.