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- Joined
- Apr 15, 2012
- Messages
- 571
- Reaction score
- 26
- Points
- 28
- Location
- Brandon, Manitoba
- Vehicle Year
- 1988
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 2.9
- Transmission
- Manual
Greetings all.
I've come across something somewhat weird. with TFI and EEC/IV on my 88 Ranger 2.9 that I would like to share (my luck this is a well known problem that "Everyone here already knows about
".
Anyhow here's the problem (see solution below).
Replaced the Stator and TFI on the above trucks distributor, truck started to run WAY better, BUT also started to code 18, and 42 (I won't talk about what 100's of codes the truck had before the replacement
.
Anyhow, kept reading, and clearing the codes (KOEO is code 11 BTW) but KOER is 18,42 every time.
18 says SPOUT is open and IDM is mis-read (TFI pins 5 and 4 respectively)
The TFI module I had purchased from NAPA is grey where as, the original module was black...... (read on...
).
It turns out that the Grey modules are "Push-start", where as the Black modules are "CCD" (Computer Controlled Dwell).
The picture below shows on the left, Push start (top is distributor mounted, bottom is fender or rad support style). right is "CCD" type, note the difference in pin 4 (Start in P/S, and IDM on CCD), BOTH do IDM, if you look at pin 2 on the P/S ones, you will see a 22k ohm resistor, this is the trick.
I simply cannot buy correct module (becuase the one I have I cannot return), SO...
I did the next best thing, I cut the wire on pin 4 about 3 inches from the distributor connector, and added the following,
A) a new wire going from the stub wire in pin 4 on the distributor connector, and ran it to the "R" terminal on the fender mounted start solenoid.
b) added a 1/2 watt 22K ohm resistor (covered the leads with shrink tubing) from pin 2 of the distributor connector, to the wire I cut from pin 4 (NOT the stub, instead,the wire from the harness).
This satisfies the EEC/IV's need for IDM, AND also satisfies the TFI's (Grey) need for a start signal.
A thing to note in all of this is the "start signal" pushes the dwell for a real easy start (trust me, the truck NOW starts GREAT !
).
All in All, IF one wanted the super easy start of this fix, one could actually do this mod,(By purposefully using the grey module in place of the black type (NO, it will not work the other way around) however I did it, because I was "stuck" with the wrong module and since I unknowingly installed it, it was not returnable, 120 bucks is what the correct module would have cost me (over the 85 I spent on the wrong one).....
Hope this helps someone
Greg
I've come across something somewhat weird. with TFI and EEC/IV on my 88 Ranger 2.9 that I would like to share (my luck this is a well known problem that "Everyone here already knows about
".Anyhow here's the problem (see solution below).
Replaced the Stator and TFI on the above trucks distributor, truck started to run WAY better, BUT also started to code 18, and 42 (I won't talk about what 100's of codes the truck had before the replacement
.Anyhow, kept reading, and clearing the codes (KOEO is code 11 BTW) but KOER is 18,42 every time.
18 says SPOUT is open and IDM is mis-read (TFI pins 5 and 4 respectively)
The TFI module I had purchased from NAPA is grey where as, the original module was black...... (read on...
).It turns out that the Grey modules are "Push-start", where as the Black modules are "CCD" (Computer Controlled Dwell).
The picture below shows on the left, Push start (top is distributor mounted, bottom is fender or rad support style). right is "CCD" type, note the difference in pin 4 (Start in P/S, and IDM on CCD), BOTH do IDM, if you look at pin 2 on the P/S ones, you will see a 22k ohm resistor, this is the trick.
I simply cannot buy correct module (becuase the one I have I cannot return), SO...
I did the next best thing, I cut the wire on pin 4 about 3 inches from the distributor connector, and added the following,
A) a new wire going from the stub wire in pin 4 on the distributor connector, and ran it to the "R" terminal on the fender mounted start solenoid.
b) added a 1/2 watt 22K ohm resistor (covered the leads with shrink tubing) from pin 2 of the distributor connector, to the wire I cut from pin 4 (NOT the stub, instead,the wire from the harness).
This satisfies the EEC/IV's need for IDM, AND also satisfies the TFI's (Grey) need for a start signal.
A thing to note in all of this is the "start signal" pushes the dwell for a real easy start (trust me, the truck NOW starts GREAT !
).All in All, IF one wanted the super easy start of this fix, one could actually do this mod,(By purposefully using the grey module in place of the black type (NO, it will not work the other way around) however I did it, because I was "stuck" with the wrong module and since I unknowingly installed it, it was not returnable, 120 bucks is what the correct module would have cost me (over the 85 I spent on the wrong one).....
Hope this helps someone
Greg
