Fuel Filter Housing?

Calgathius · Aug 25, 2011

Okay, under the driver-side door, attached to the frame near the fuel pump, is a cartridge-type filter. If anyone else has one, they'll know it as a round piece (much like an oil filter) that you unscrew the bottom part off of to get to the fuel filter.

Recently, I replaced this filter... and two days ago, the housing itself cracked and left me stranded in 100-degree humid weather just 7 miles from home. So far, I haven't been able to find out what this housing itself is called. In order to replace this part, I need to know what it is. Anyone got a clue?

Basically, it has 4 connectors on top of it where the fuel lines (both from the tank and the return line) connect. It's bolted to the frame with two bolts. It seems to have a couple of valves in it (both of which are broken in this one) that seem to serve the purposes of preventing back-flow and to release air to the return line so it doesn't end up back in the main fuel line. This may have also been a large part of my problems, to begin with.

cody93 · Aug 25, 2011

another victim eh? i just bought an 87 2.3 that didn't wana run, i bypassed that filter assembly with 2 inline fuel filters and its be working ever since. mine didn't have a filter in it to begin with when i bought it.

adsm08 · Aug 25, 2011

It's called many things.

A "fuel screener", is a common one. Most parts guys at the dealer will know what you want if you describe it. If they are worth what they are paid that is.

They aren't that expensive either, but cody's setup is pretty good too.

Calgathius · Aug 25, 2011

Ah... awesome. I may just do the in-line thing, since I happen to have a spare one. I'll see what happens with this in the morning. 100-degree weather sucks for being under a truck when you've no garage.

adsm08 · Aug 25, 2011

My only caution with what Cody did is this: He has a 4 cylinder. You have a 6.

Part of the housing's purpose is to act as an accumulator. The in-tank pump doesn't spool up as fast as the rail pump on the frame. The 2.3 isn't likely to over draw the system, but the 2.9 can demand too much fuel too fast in situations where the throttle is snapped open quickly and bog the engine. The accumulator is there partially to provide the high pressure pump with something to draw from when the low pressure pump can't supply fast enough.

AllanD · Aug 25, 2011

On an '87 there isn't supposed to be a filter inside it

and they crack when reinstalled because when originally assembled there was
a point where they were ultrasonically welded, and that's typically where the crack starts after they are re-assembled.

The '87-88 "Reservoir cannister" has a bottom "cup" that is too deep for the '85-86 filter to stay in position without installing a spring under it.

There should only be a screen inside (if that)

The REAL filter is forward of the fuel pump up against the engine cross member.

AD

adsm08 · Aug 25, 2011

AllanD said:
The REAL filter is forward of the fuel pump up against the engine cross member.

AD

Yeah, but more filtration isn't exactly a bad thing.

fastpakr · Aug 25, 2011

If there's already a filter in place, the only thing you're accomplishing is to create another point of failure.

adsm08 · Aug 25, 2011

fastpakr said:
If there's already a filter in place, the only thing you're accomplishing is to create another point of failure.

And, from that perspective, all Cody has really done is exchange one point of failure for another, more readily available point of failure.

Calgathius · Aug 25, 2011

Hmm. I think I'll be looking for this part again. So while we're on this topic... is there, by chance, anything else that could cause the fuel line to be getting a ton of air? After further examination, I've observed the following:

Runs fine cool.

When the temp gauge in the cluster says it's half between cold and hot, the engine begins to lose power.

Checking the fuel bleeder under the hood shows an almost steady stream of fuel.

As the engine is continuously run, the bleeder begins to show a lot more air in the line, and the engine is pretty much stalling any time I try to move the truck.

After a time, the engine refuses to start, even if fuel is getting to it in between air bubbles.

Eventually, there completely stops being any fuel, and the air coming out of the bleeder is obviously still being pressured by the pumps.

Any ideas?

Edit: This was also happening before the canister cracked. I had just 'fixed' it temporarily by plugging the hole inside where the return line drops off into it before it continues back to the tank. It ran wonderfully after that... until it cracked.

cody93 · Aug 25, 2011

if i had more fuel line and fittings i would have completly redone the fuel return and the section from the sender to the HP pump, i chose those inline fuel filters because they worked as a coupler

the ones i used are the same as the main filter. be adviced tho, it wasn't a direct plug and play swap, there 2 sizes of connectors, one is 5/16, i believe the other is 1/4, so i had to swap some the connectors out to get it to work.. but on a plus side, its been working great eversince i did it, plus it would be easier to work on, incase something happened.

edit: air in fuel eh? sounds like your system is sucking up air. when i first reassembled my fuel system, it was full of air because i completly took it apart. i bled the air out by taking off the gas cap, priming the system by turning the key from off to run and then press the shrader valve until fuel came out. give that a try when ever its dry and yes a cracked accumulator will let air in. do you notice any fuel leaks? strong smell of gas? since you do have a v6, i may advise using the oem setup. its one thing for me to do repairs like this on my truck, but i probly shouldn't recomend this on someone elses truck if im not 100% sure they can handle it.

Calgathius · Aug 26, 2011

Update

Well, I finally tracked down the proper name for this part - it's called a "Single Function Fuel Reservoir" and, apparently, it's definitely necessary for the the fuel system to function properly in 1983-1989 model 2.9L V6 rigs. The downside is that no automotive parts dealers (including Ford, themselves) carry this part. The upside is that there's apparently a Ford-only junkyard in Denver I can visit that will likely have it.

adsm08 · Aug 26, 2011

Your Ford dealer didn't look hard enough.

They are out there, you just gotta find them.

Calgathius · Aug 28, 2011

Eh... even if they did have it, they'd probably want to charge me some outrageous price like they tried to do with the ignition control module. Can you believe that wanted $220 for a piece of hardware that I found, brand new (not a refurb) at an AutoZone for $40? Yeah. My dad just told me over the phone day before yesterday that he went looking for a part for his '89 Cougar (yeah, I know.. Mercury... same thing as a T-Bird, though) and they wanted $195 for, he got for $30 from Advance Auto, so... I don't care much for the dealers.

cody93 · Aug 28, 2011

the only motocraft parts i buy are oil filters...

Fuel Filter Housing?

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