Checklist for pulling 2.5 engine?

Marshman · Jun 1, 2017

Hello, new guy here...I'm Mike..

I've never pulled a motor but I'm about to jump in head first.. it's a 98 2.5L with bad gaskets and suspected low compression, new one on the way sometime next week..

Can anybody list a good set of steps or guidelines just so I don't overlook or forget anything? I know to tag/label all my wires/harnesses... I'll be taking pics and some videos for sure as I go...

I'm mostly concerned with having/not having certain tools I'll need once I get started... any tools out of the ordinary I should have on hand?

I have hand tools, (no impact) sockets, ratchets, extensions, breaker bars, wrenches, pliers, pipewrenches, hammers, screwdrivers, pry bars, come-a-long, chain hoist... I'll have a engine hoist/cherry picker here when I start but planning to remove hood and use chain hoist mostly..

I'm not a car mechanic, but I'm a PipeFitter in plants and done some machine/pump alignment /rebuild work so I'm comfortable on tools, rigging, and safety..

About the only thing I'm most worried about is accessing the top transmission bolts!! They look really tough to get to..

Sorry if this sounds dumb, I'm not dumb and very confident in my ability to pull this off... just trying to make sure I'm not overlooking anything...I won't be able to go run out and get anything once I break in to it, unless I get someone to come give me a ride or call a taxi/uber..

Thanks..

Haywire6000 · Jun 1, 2017

If it's an auto don't forget the torque converter bolts. Also it's worth removing the crank pulley bolt before you get the engine out, without air tool it can be damn near impossible some times to remove it with the engine sitting on the ground already.

Haywire6000 · Jun 1, 2017

Also welcome to The Ranger Station!

Marshman · Jun 1, 2017

I just read that about the crank pulley bolt.. thanks for the heads up..

And thanks for mentioning torque converter bolts!! I totally didn't think about that..

And thanks for the welcome.. much appreciated.. I got this truck as a project a d it has turned out to more than I bargained for but I'm good with it..

RonD · Jun 2, 2017

First time pulling an engine people often forget about the front suspension

You will be lifting most of the weight off the front coils so the front of the truck will come up very high, high enough so you can't get the engine out, lol.

You can chain the coils, loop of chain thru the coils so they can't expand all the way when engine is lifted out

If you do have a problem with clearance then have a jack and blocks handy, remove front tires to lower the front end to get the clearance needed

Shran · Jun 2, 2017

The exhaust is probably going to be your biggest challenge. Since you have a new engine coming, snapping manifold bolts off in the head isn't an issue, just be aware that it happens a lot.

May also need fuel line disconnect tools. Depends on how complete the new engine is.

ericbphoto · Jun 2, 2017

Inspection mirror
Magnetic retrieval tool
Good flashlight and batteries
Lotsa rags

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Marshman · Jun 2, 2017

I'm good on lights and rags... thanks for the top on a mirror!! I have a magnetic pick up tool..

Yeah I've been warned about the exhaust bolts.. I've been soaking them in pb blaster for a few days now.. and yeah, if they break off, I'll be ok with new motor coming and I can just worry about drilling them out later.. this motor will sit in my shop/carport on a dolly and I'll eventually rebuild it or have it rebuilt for the experience and for a spare or to sell but that won't be any kind of priority for a while..

Marshman · Jun 2, 2017

RonD said:
First time pulling an engine people often forget about the front suspension

You will be lifting most of the weight off the front coils so the front of the truck will come up very high, high enough so you can't get the engine out, lol.

You can chain the coils, loop of chain thru the coils so they can't expand all the way when engine is lifted out

If you do have a problem with clearance then have a jack and blocks handy, remove front tires to lower the front end to get the clearance needed

I never really thought of that.. but I have an overhead beam I put in a while back for boat motors and I beefed it up today so I'll be able to use a chain hoist and /or come a long as needed... I will have a engine hoist but I'm planning to use the chain fall.. (I have plenty of head room.. A good 5-6 feet over engine)

Marshman · Jun 2, 2017

Bolts

On the subject of bolts.. what's the best source for replacement bolts?

I have a paint and body supply store here in town that's great for replacement hardware for bumpers, fenders, interior stuff and what not... but not so much metric engine bolts.. napa has some stuff on some spinning racks but the selection didnt look too great..

ericbphoto · Jun 3, 2017

Others may have some good ideas. But I have a good industrial hardware supply place nearby that I go to for good hardware. If it's just regular SAE or metric fine or coarse thread stuff, that's the way to go. Better pricing than the little color coded bags at Lowe's or Home Depot. Grade 5, grade 8, 10.8, 12.9, etc. different head styles, buy one piece or 1000's. You can order from McMaster-Carr also. You might check Fastenall, But I consider them to be too pricey.

If you need application-specific things like manifold studs, head bolts, etc. then you're better off ordering from places like Rock Auto, Summit, Jegs, etc or the dealer.

Marshman · Jun 3, 2017

I have a fastenal here in town and honestly they never seem to have what I want...misleading... you'd think they have any and every kind of fastener made... and yeah they are pricey, but one of those, if you need it, gotta have it kind of things...

alwaysFlOoReD · Jun 3, 2017

Bandaids...
Cuss jar...
As far as the top tranny bolts, every motor I've ever worked on I could access the bolt heads with a combo wrench. Sometimes you can get to them with a socket, swivel, and three or four extensions on a ratchet from underneath. If it's a two wheel drive personally I would try pulling motor and trans together, but it does depend on clearance [and I've always used a cherry-picker].

Mark_88 · Jun 3, 2017

I would also suggest pulling the transmission and engine together. When you do it that way you can assemble everything without having to lie under the vehicle for anything other than the transmission support bolts, connecting lines and wires but you will need to do that anyway.

The two main areas of concern that I can recall were 1) either drain the transmission or cap it somehow because the fluids will run out the tail when you angle it out and 2) protect the windshield with something solid that will take a slightly swinging engine should it get out of control.

Unless the glass is out already...I used a cut sheet of plywood or the hood held in place with bungee cords.

Marshman · Jun 3, 2017

I'm very much considering pulling tranny out with it... I keep looking at it going over everything in my mind.. I will drain tranny best I can but I do expect some fluid to spill... I'm on uneven dirt/rocks, not concrete so it will contain easily....

Doing a play day/day off from stress tomorrow with a girl friend I haven't seen in years so I'm low key right now just getting set up..I'll start busting it loose first thing Monday morning..

Checklist for pulling 2.5 engine?

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