302 rad/cooling pics/ideas

terryduanemiller · Jul 31, 2016

my setup

my '99 mazda 2wd 5.0 swap. Im using Derale electric fan kit attached to stock rad. I'm using two becool realys and one becool a/c engagement relay.

Bird76Mojo · Aug 21, 2017

terryduanemiller said:
my '99 mazda 2wd 5.0 swap. Im using Derale electric fan kit attached to stock rad. I'm using two becool realys and one becool a/c engagement relay.

Any word on how your cooling system is working Terry? I'm particularly interested in the A/C system and if you had any problems hoking the compressor to the factory lines on the truck. Any additional wiring pointers on the system with WOT cutout, high pressure switch, etc, would be even better.

GB

85_Ranger4x4 · Aug 21, 2017

terryduanemiller said:
my '99 mazda 2wd 5.0 swap. Im using Derale electric fan kit attached to stock rad. I'm using two becool realys and one becool a/c engagement relay.
View attachment 20994

View attachment 20995

Awesome looking setup, do you have a part # for your fan kit?

whwaufmaio · Oct 29, 2017

Angie said:
Ordered the rad today, will pick it up Friday after work. The northern one. NOR205138

$350 Can. after taxes. ouch

will post up pics after it is all installed. thanks for the help guys

Hi! I'm thinking of this rad as the option for my 351 clevor build... are you up and running?

Bird76Mojo · Oct 29, 2017

I ended up going with a radiator built by Superior for an automatic. It's their "Ranger swap radiator" they list on eBay.

EDIT: PHOTO LINK BELOW

https://photos.app.goo.gl/CfZRTfx4A4x02OwQ2

GB

whwaufmaio · Oct 30, 2017

thanks, i'll look into that.

Bird76Mojo · Oct 30, 2017

The only real drawback to the Superior radiator was the upper hose connection. It's tiny. I have no idea why they'd use tubing so small. It makes no sense at all.

Also, be aware that the fitting in the radiator for the transmission cooler lines don't have a flare connection inside them. You'll have to buy adapters at the parts store for them to seal correctly if you're using factory lines. If you're using hose barbs and transmission fluid rated hose, then you'll be fine.

The construction is VERY nice though.

We'll see how it cools the engine sometime this winter hopefully. I still have a TON to do on my project truck..

GB

whwaufmaio · May 7, 2018

get her running? how'd the radiator handle? :icon_bounceblue:

Bird76Mojo · May 7, 2018

Doing excellent so far. Measuring with an infrared thermometer the hottest temps I see are at the top hose connection and it's never been over 191 degrees even after giving it hell. The true test will be later this summer.

I've logged over 1500 miles at this point.

GB

85_Ranger4x4 · Jul 2, 2018

Looking at twin fan efans, has anyone tried a 300/Charger/Challenger fan yet?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-620-039/overview/

Price isn't bad, Mopar radiator core is speced at 18.75x24.3125 vs the first gen Explorer 18-1/8x18.

So kinda closish...

Other ideas? I need really thin in the center so I am about stuck with a twin motor.

Bird76Mojo · Jul 2, 2018

I see most people going with Derale or fans pulled from junkyard vehicles. I wouldn't trust a Dorman fan myself after having bad experiences with other Dorman parts.

Your results may vary..

I plan on keeping my mechanical fan as long as I can.

GB

85_Ranger4x4 · Jul 2, 2018

Bird76Mojo said:
I see most people going with Derale or fans pulled from junkyard vehicles. I wouldn't trust a Dorman fan myself after having bad experiences with other Dorman parts.

Your results may vary..

I plan on keeping my mechanical fan as long as I can.

GB

I have a low profile flexfan with a pusher efan right now. Works good, if I go slow (busy drive thru) or let it idle the efan will kick on. 90% of the time the efan doesn't run.

But I want to add A/C and the condenser will occupy the space the pusher fan is occupying right now. And that is going throw a wrench into my entire cooling situation. If the flexfan can't keep it cool all the time now, the condenser blocking airflow and adding more heat won't help it any. :annoyed:

Just looking at Dorman because they make fans for about everything and it is easier to shop from my livingroom than to go the JY and pull fans to compare.

Bird76Mojo · Jul 2, 2018

Was your truck originally equipped with AC?

GB

85_Ranger4x4 · Jul 3, 2018

Bird76Mojo said:
Was your truck originally equipped with AC?

GB

It did have A/C at some point but has never had functioning A/C since I got the truck.

When I got the truck it was only missing the condenser and the hoses going to the condenser. It has devolved to the point the only A/C part on the truck at the moment is the dash panel.

After pulling a dash it wouldn't really be hard to swap that if required.

I like the coverage of my pusher but the puller variant is 3.18 deep and as it sits I have about 2.25" of room. A wild thought I had last night was if I could cut the threaded boss off the water pump that would get me nearly an inch of room. Water pump is about in the center of the radiator.

Bird76Mojo · Jul 3, 2018

I've heard of people cutting them off before.. I'd go for it. Just keep a bucket of icewater handy with a rag in it. Place the rag on the pump shaft immediately after cutting. Or when you've made it half way through the cut, to let it cool. Then start again.

You wouldn't be able to turn it in for a core charge if you ever needed. That's the only drawback I see..

GB

302 rad/cooling pics/ideas

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