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Non-Ranger Axles All other axles. Ford 9-inch, Dana 44, Dana 60, etc.

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Old 12-12-2017, 10:50 AM   #11
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There are, but I have not gotten under there to take a closer look yet.
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Old 12-16-2017, 04:45 PM   #12
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Please post a pic when you get your D50 chunk installed. On my '89 BII there was zero clearance 'tween the D35 chunk and the 6" drop bracket/pass beam assemblage. Much judicious grinding followed.
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Old 12-17-2017, 02:39 PM   #13
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dirtcowboy - will do my friend!
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:45 PM   #14
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What's the status on this? Have you taken care of the passenger side axle shaft issue, or made any decisions about the coil buckets?
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Old 02-16-2018, 09:46 AM   #15
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Jim- Picking up the D50 chunk tonight after work. Going to bolt it up to the
beam and measure for the right side axle.. Stock D44 is too long and D35 is too short, 4" difference.... I figure I'll split the difference

Besides, bolting the D44 beams onto the Ranger mounts narrows the track by 2 inches... which just so happens to be the center of the two stock right hand inner shafts...

I'll post some photos of the D50 this weekend.
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Old 02-17-2018, 06:48 PM   #16
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Thanks for the update!
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Old 03-04-2018, 11:48 AM   #17
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i have posited updated photos in posts 2 and 3... the center chunk on the bench and in the truck., photos showing how much to shorten the inner shaft

the shortened inner shaft is being sent to Moser for making a new one. also going to have CTM u joints put in the differential joint (1350 style) and the outer joint with new short stub
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Old 03-04-2018, 09:13 PM   #18
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Looking good. Thanks for the update!
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Old 05-02-2018, 11:32 AM   #19
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I've got the front end together. I'm going to resize all my photos so that I can post more pics. Had Moser Engineering make a custom length right inner shaft along with the left inner and both outer. That are all 4140 chromoly with CTM u joints installed (PNC144-1881).
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Last edited by evanesce69; 05-02-2018 at 12:56 PM. Reason: additional information
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Old 05-03-2018, 06:07 AM   #20
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i am shocked one would not simply install the d44 ttb at normal width....ESPECIALLY using these quality brackets...you simply add a hole drilled inboard on the front bracket and the rear slightly re positioned with new holes in the k member to keep the max advantage of no custom parts install. shocked is definitely not overkill to describe it.




i plan to build another ttb truck with the intention to run it in the emc challenge as a 4600 vehicle if that competition still exists once competed. i caught flak for that among-st a group of peers i consult with.

i can see limiting the rbv to 4cyl and 6 cyl as fair, but i should be able to build whatever 4 or 6 cyl i want... my only issue originally was having to keep the cologne engine as i would rather run the cyclone....but the engine block and transmissions have to be platform origins....there is no boost or power adders allowed as these rbv were always n/a.

well i assumed it also had to stay ifs, and iirc it did initially and the rules i guess now allow any axles (have not looked careful at current rules)...just have to have leaf rear and coil front like the original platform.

so to use ttb in the eyes of my peers is stupid...links and coils on a 60 are the easy button.. so i will have to really have a look at the current rules.

though in any case i still want to run a ttb.





Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtcowboy View Post
Please post a pic when you get your D50 chunk installed. On my '89 BII there was zero clearance 'tween the D35 chunk and the 6" drop bracket/pass beam assemblage. Much judicious grinding followed.

sounds like you have a drop plate...which actually can make swapping in a d44 ttb easier depending on your ride height goals and intended use.



Quote:
Originally Posted by evanesce69 View Post
I've got the front end together. I'm going to resize all my photos so that I can post more pics. Had Moser Engineering make a custom length right inner shaft along with the left inner and both outer. That are all 4140 chromoly with CTM u joints installed (PNC144-1881).
and this brings me to my reason to take time to post.

first thing....thank you for taking the time to document your choice of process. i do not mean to knock what you have done in any way. if it comes across as insulting it is not intended.

i assume you wanted max strength and to narrow it a bit if possible to keep the tires inboard as much as you could. i have done several variations of this over the years and prefer to be able to use easily sourced junkyard parts...especially axleshafts which i fawk up regularly.

you dont seem to be in for max travel and speed so i can see this working out good. but a trans yoke can really make a difference running the 1350 style joint for more engaged travel in the slip spline. the d50 is not made to move much in its leaf congiguration so the spline area is not too much if your running hard with long travel....

but the ttb 44 can be outfitted with rcv shafts...(which drew the fire on me) in the oem configuration as bolt ins. and regular shafts are still readily available for it...so the kick in the balls i was getting along with laughing and pointing was i can drive to the junkyard and buy/ bolt in a d44 for under 200 bux and no custom parts save for home mods to the pivots, and then spend 2 thousand on rcv axleshafts.... but the nice thing is junkyard shafts...easy to get and very cheap.


it makes sense to me







your choice of taking the cheap and easy out of this scenario having to mod the axleshafts perplexed me...i even used all 3 of my brain cells last i looked to do that with all ctm with max travel setup exceeded 1300 for something i knew would break quickly if i was in a steering situation.....so 2 k for the rcv seemed a better way to go because they are stronger full lock steering then even the bad ass setup you have with wheels straight. of course if your under 600 then i would have to say that is fair way to go.



inboard coil mount on beam for better articulated travel on the trail or outboard the buckets for stability. if it is a long range driver/trail machine i would never use coilovers personally

the ol f250 shock tower mount on the frame and just do a mount on top of your radius arm like a normal ttb 150 to get the brake clear of your shock.


either way, its is really appreciated that all the ways to skin the cat are getting covered. i am not one to take the time. great work on this
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