- Joined
- Aug 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,271
- Reaction score
- 372
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Nevada
- Vehicle Year
- 1987, 1989
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Type
- V8
- Engine Size
- 5.0,4.0
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- Solid Axle Swap 4x4
- Total Lift
- 6”
- Tire Size
- 35
Very true!
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I agree ill probably give it a once over and see what I got. If it takes about the same time then ill see about just swapping it all over. If my motor is rebuildable then I might go that route. The only thing that bugs me is, if I have a bad motor why wouldn't I upgrade instead of keeping it the same? For short term I could see why it would be an obvious choice. On the same token 2.9 weren't exactly powerhouses. Gambling? Nah I tried it once and I almost lost my ass lolI totally agree with you. It is way easier to swap the whole motor. However, there is no telling what the other motor looks like on the inside. Those heads could be shot too, and the cylinders could be warped for all we know (meaning boring the thing out and having to get new pistons$$$$). Just because there is not mixing of fluids now does not mean it will stay that way after you start the thing up again...
If you have already pulled your motor apart, and your block looks good for the most part (in other words, it could use a hone job but dose not need a bore job). I would probably stick with just getting new heads for yours. You just never know anything about a motor until it is pulled apart.... that's my only point.
so, I think, this is what it comes down to. Are you a gambler?
If I had to do it all over, I would do a 4.0 swap.I agree ill probably give it a once over and see what I got. If it takes about the same time then ill see about just swapping it all over. If my motor is rebuildable then I might go that route. The only thing that bugs me is, if I have a bad motor why wouldn't I upgrade instead of keeping it the same? For short term I could see why it would be an obvious choice. On the same token 2.9 weren't exactly powerhouses. Gambling? Nah I tried it once and I almost lost my ass lol
Just look for the explorer 5.0. There's a little bit extra you have to do with the swap, but you're gonna get that out of an F150 tres oh dos. And the explorer comes with the motor mounts, so I believe you won't need a body lift.
i have never seen that in extended running. not doubting you but if your methodology is off or equipment is reporting incorrectly its easy to go over or under.I'm gettin over 18 mpg in my ranger with my 5.0 and its lifted on 35" tires. That's what I was getting back when it was stock and I have all the power I need. But i want more lol. So this summer I'm gonna be swapping my block out though for one I had built.
If you have the time and $ I highly recommend goin with the 5.0. I love mine.
You could always just find a 4.0 to put in....
So if I go with a 4x4 trans then no matter what I'm switching tcase? But I have seen people use the rbv tcase without buying the kit do I assume it was a home brew type deal?even if you put a 2.9 back in i like at least a 2 in body lift.
4.0 is a good way to go, but they can be clutch killrs too.
on the 5.0, 2wd trans is not bad to convert. its possible on some units to pop on an ext housing from a 4x4 if you plan to keep the ranger t case by using the 28 spline adapter. but at 500 bux for the adapter to do that its not exactly best value.
Honestly 18-20 for me would be ideal. But with 37's and 4.88's I don't know if that's feasible. If it was up to me I would do a mild build just to give it an extra skip in its step. How much of a guesstimation would you say on how much it would cost for a stock to mild build?I'm gettin over 18 mpg in my ranger with my 5.0 and its lifted on 35" tires. That's what I was getting back when it was stock and I have all the power I need. But i want more lol. So this summer I'm gonna be swapping my block out though for one I had built.
If you have the time and $ I highly recommend goin with the 5.0. I love mine.
True but I don't think I wanna mess with v6's anymore lol