Why did I buy this thing

[nivlasemaj]

Nope. It's inside the driver's side frame rail, below the cab.

Found it thanks.

 

[nivlasemaj]

Lots of suggestions. Did the OP finally fix the problem? What was the final result?

OP?

 

[nivlasemaj]

Lots of suggestions. Did the OP finally fix the problem? What was the final result?

OP? It seems to be in the pig tail of the coil pack,when I wiggle it the engine dies

 

[nivlasemaj]

Are you getting any fault codes?

If spark is fine, then the next step is to look at fuel. Have you replaced the fuel filter? Have you checked injectors? I had a couple of injectors go bad and cause a miss on my 3.0, but it had 180,000 miles or so. But if you bought it at auction, it may have been sitting for a long time, and the fuel may have degraded enough to clog the filter or an injector. I'd also check the electrical connections at each injector to make sure the wiring harness hasn't been damaged or anything.

There's a rev limiter when the truck is in Park. That's why you haven't been able to go above 3000. But really, misfires aren't typically serious enough to justify blowing your engine up.

I don't have a code reader, the check engine light has been on since I bought the thing. Looked up the beeping sequence upon startup and said it was cause the air bag light in the dash needs replacing, haven't explored how to get into the instrument panel to fix that.
As for the missing issue, found it to be in the pig tail on the coil pack, when I wiggle it the engine dies. Had the plug just right once and the engine ran perfect, just won't stay there. Any suggestions on this?

 

[RonD]

OP = Original Poster, the person that started the thread

Yes, sounds like a short or broken wire to me.
The only wire that would cause an out right stall would be the Red 12v power wire, the other 3 are Computer controlled Ground wires, 1 for each of the 3 coil in the coil pack, so if one of those was loose engine would start missing but not die as the other 2 coils(4 cylinders) would keep firing.

If it is not a loose connection in the coil pack itself then I would hit a wrecking yard and cut off a coil pack connector to splice into your harness, one at a time, the order is VERY important for correct spark timing.

 

[stmitch]

FYI, any autoparts store should be able to tell you what fault codes are being generated, and maybe even potential fixes. Either way, knowing the code that is triggering your Check Engine Light will make it MUCH easier to narrow down the location and potential cause of your issue. And, that will keep you from dumping a bunch of money into it on parts that won't fix your problems.

 

[nivlasemaj]

OP = Original Poster, the person that started the thread

Yes, sounds like a short or broken wire to me.
The only wire that would cause an out right stall would be the Red 12v power wire, the other 3 are Computer controlled Ground wires, 1 for each of the 3 coil in the coil pack, so if one of those was loose engine would start missing but not die as the other 2 coils(4 cylinders) would keep firing.

If it is not a loose connection in the coil pack itself then I would hit a wrecking yard and cut off a coil pack connector to splice into your harness, one at a time, the order is VERY important for correct spark timing.

It seems to be in the middle wire/2&6, cause the spark seems weak. The other 4 cylinders have great spark, they jump around the boot and get me ZZZZZ.

 

[nivlasemaj]

FYI, any autoparts store should be able to tell you what fault codes are being generated, and maybe even potential fixes. Either way, knowing the code that is triggering your Check Engine Light will make it MUCH easier to narrow down the location and potential cause of your issue. And, that will keep you from dumping a bunch of money into it on parts that won't fix your problems.

Thanks, will compare spark at plugs, on coil pack, and compression tomorrow. If there is nothing definite I'll try to limp it to parts store or shoot it and put it out of both our miseries.
Also I ran about 8oz of ATF into the intake while running to give extra lube to a possible sticky valve. Drove it around for about 10 minutes and ran great but after setting a while and then trying to drive it around later only 1 mile down the road and it started puking again. Coincidence or clue? what do you think?

 

[bucko]

If the problem is spark related, then I don't see what running ATF in the intake would do to correct that. A sticky valve? I'd have run some good gas additive in a couple of tankfuls to cure that, but you can't keep the truck running long enough for that.

Sounds like perhaps you have several issues you are dealing with.

 

[nivlasemaj]

Has ran now 2+ days like a dream....yes and it was an old old trick to add lube on the valve stems, don't know if that was it but....

 

[nivlasemaj]

I think so bucko.

Lots of suggestions. Did the OP finally fix the problem? What was the final result?

Seems I had a new plug wire that rested on an exhaust stud and rubbed thru the boot and was shorting out.

 

[bucko]

And now your happy you did buy it? A simple, and cheap plug wire got it back to running.

 

[nivlasemaj]

And now your happy you did buy it? A simple, and cheap plug wire got it back to running.

I said it would turn out to be something simple.. Thanks for the support.

Now one of my little pieces of wit you can share with everone: Don't ever use a full can of fuel treatment again. Wait till your tank is at 1/4, then use only 1/4 can of treatment, after all you are not treating the fuel it self but the impurities in the tank. This way you get 4 tank treatments out of one can of fuel treatment, save a little $$$.

 

[bucko]

I said it would turn out to be something simple.. Thanks for the support.

Now one of my little pieces of wit you can share with everone: Don't ever use a full can of fuel treatment again. Wait till your tank is at 1/4, then use only 1/4 can of treatment, after all you are not treating the fuel it self but the impurities in the tank. This way you get 4 tank treatments out of one can of fuel treatment, save a little $$$.

Or, simply buy good gas. Stations that sell Shell or Mobile put fuel cleaners such as techron in their gas. This helps keep the injectors clean, along with the valve tops from building up.

Been using these two for years. Knock on my head, I've not had a faulty injector problem to date.

 

[nivlasemaj]

Or, simply buy good gas. Stations that sell Shell or Mobile put fuel cleaners such as techron in their gas. This helps keep the injectors clean, along with the valve tops from building up.

Been using these two for years. Knock on my head, I've not had a faulty injector problem to date.[/QU

You have never felt the need to treat your fuel system? Condensation builds in the gas tank regardless of where the fuel came from.