Which year 5.0 Liter is best?

[Bannanatruck02]

I have a buddy who is looking to basically give me a 5.0 V8 from '94 and out of a mustang. The block is in great shape, but I'll problably end up rebuilding it anyhow. I have an '02 ranger. I was really trying to nab a block out of a '97-01 exploder, however, a hundred bucks for a complete engine with only 70k on it is a hell of a deal. In terms of wiring harness, ecm, pats, vss, etc, how much of pain in the ass would it be to get the older 5.0 from '94 versus getting something right from an exploder?
-Josh

 

[bobbywalter]

it all depends on whether emmisions legality is a direct issue.


easiest is the obd1 stang stuff.

best year imo engine from stock donor is the first year and a half the explorer was offered with a v8. it had regular type gt40 heads. but those are bout impossible to find low mile. run that with a good 600 cfm 4 bbl and aftermarket ignition, or the obd1 maf stang efi computer and sensors and its a cake swap.

 

[D'cheat]

For the older 5.0 V8's, its not so much the engine, as it is the ECU. The 1992 GT mustang has the most agressive power curve burned into its ECU. After that, Ford had to dumb it down for C.A.R.B standards.

FYI, 5.0 Exploders have one of the best flowing intakes that you can find for a 5.0 v8. Most aftermarket intakes don't even flow as well.

 

[281Ranger]

Before things get too far out of hand, he's got an '02 with OBDII (EEC V) and PATS. Changing to the earlier OBDI (EEC IV) is not an easy job. Changing to a carb isn't easy either. Best bet would be to use the '99-'01 Explorer setup. That way most everything matches up.

 

[Bannanatruck02]

Before things get too far out of hand, he's got an '02 with OBDII (EEC V) and PATS. Changing to the earlier OBDI (EEC IV) is not an easy job. Changing to a carb isn't easy either. Best bet would be to use the '99-'01 Explorer setup. That way most everything matches up.

If I use that explorer motor from a '97/98-'01, can I use the same Pats? is it possible to get a more aggressive ECM without spending a shit ton on a JET or BULLY DOG,etc.? In addition, will the wiring harness line up with the OBDII on my ranger?
-Josh

 

[turbo cat]

go with the exploder swap EECV has far better diagnostic/tuning capabilities without going with a stand alone or expensive piggyback. I don't know about the 3.0s reliablilty in stofck form under boost but have you ever considered straping a blower on the 3.0?

 

[Bannanatruck02]

Yeah, I've thought about it... See, I used to have a hot rod and it was stolen- I like the ease and power of a naturally asperated V8. The 3.0 Turbos are pretty damn sweet tho, I've seen them on youtube and stuff, but never in real life. How much does something like that run? Also, how much boost could the bottom end of the 3.0 L handle?
-Josh

 

[281Ranger]

If I use that explorer motor from a '97/98-'01, can I use the same Pats? is it possible to get a more aggressive ECM without spending a shit ton on a JET or BULLY DOG,etc.? In addition, will the wiring harness line up with the OBDII on my ranger?
-Josh

You'll want to pick the year Explorer that best matches your Ranger. I your case it would be a '99-'01 Explorer. The '96-'98 V8 Explorers used a return style fuel system. Your Ranger uses a returnless fuel system, the same as the '99-'01 Explorers.

 

[Bannanatruck02]

Thanks, yeah I recently put in a new fuel pump and I was suprised that the newer ones are returnless. I think that I'm just going to stick to a 5.0 out of a '99-'01 explorer like everyone is telling me- makes the most sense, and problably fewest headaches.

 

[Mac]

No matter what block you end up using, best to use the Explorer front engine dress. There were a lot of changes from the 2000 Ranger to the '01' that make the swap even harder. Mechanicaly it's still really easy but the wiring is a lot different. The Ranger and Explorer now have two different types of PATS and a few other things that make it harder.
I sent you a PM explaining some of the differences. You have an Edge so the Explorer motor mounts will work.
Dave

 

[Bannanatruck02]

Dave, thank you so much for the information- it's a lifesaver! I appreciate it. What if I were to disable the anti-theft altogether? Is this possible? I figure if I did that, I would not have to worry about PATS. Does the pats tap into the ignition system, making it near impossible to simply rip out?
-Josh

 

[bobbywalter]

you can shitcan the pats. most dynotuners can do that to 01 that i know of. some lap tuners can too.


i have not tried to go around it manually yet..cause i would do a 6.0 gm in a truck that new anyway. or maybe even a 5.3.

 

[Bannanatruck02]

you can shitcan the pats. most dynotuners can do that to 01 that i know of. some lap tuners can too.


i have not tried to go around it manually yet..cause i would do a 6.0 gm in a truck that new anyway. or maybe even a 5.3.

This may be a stupid question, but any schematics of how to "disable" the pats? ALso, i'm getting a little lost, what's "gm"? are you refering to a 5.3 Liter GM/or a 6.0 Liter GM? sorry, I feel really dumb for asking this.
-Josh

 

[bobbywalter]

i will have to get the whole system in my paws to know.


ian just did it with the programmer tools at thier facility at dyno daves and kcc. watson does it electronically too. all those shops are gone now...but the staff are in fla.

 

[bobbywalter]

i see your in mi...call lideo at alternate performance or go to total performance and see what they will do for ya.