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What's this AC component?


Just_Randy

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Well, I read that all the AC systems after 1996 have the parallel flow that can't be flushed so I decided to get the condenser. And I decided to get the other hose. May as well get both pressure switches too. And instead of figuring out some way to draw a vacuum I decided to get the pump. And need gauges to monitor the vacuum.

Shipping from 3 locations + tax.

I don't know what you guys were on about with the beaver grease but I don't think rockauto used any lol

But I didn't feel like going through all that again at another site.

That's everything new except the part in the cab. I don't know if blowing that out with compressed air is good enough but I'm not buying more stuff lol
 


pjtoledo

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search ac flush, any parts retailer has the stuff.
 

bobbywalter

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That's why I put it up ..you should have a header style condenser..... your pump could also be checking out freon...and the accumulator if not fresh is likely packed and about to give you hell .... At a certain age you just shitcan everything and start over. Really....for a diy project and the value you get from it if you live where AC is needed....buying a vac pump and all new components is very cost effective ...


Of course there is more.....and its conditional....as in if you drive dirt roads often ....or in a heavy pollen area ECT...

.It is a horrendous pain in the arse to pull your evaporator.....but these systems are not filtered. Often it is worth pulling it apart and carefully cleaning the whole thing out. Then getting another 15 years out of it is more likely than not.
 

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I haven't taken it apart yet. But I figured if the old compressor still works then the new one should work.
You would think so but sometimes they will give you hell. I had mine apart to replace a damaged condenser. AC worked fine and had worked fine for years... went to vacuum it out after replacing the condenser and it wouldn't hold vacuum. It also would not hold nitrogen... I started replacing other stuff and the major leak I ended up finding was the front seal on the compressor. The low side pressure switch was also bad and leaked In the end I replaced everything. It was a frustrating experience, I spent a ton of money on parts and even more than that on tools... AC work on old vehicles is always a crap shoot.

As bobby said replacing the evap core is a major PITA, if you have to do that, it's easier if you remove the wheel well liner.
 

Just_Randy

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That's why I put it up ..you should have a header style condenser..... your pump could also be checking out freon...and the accumulator if not fresh is likely packed and about to give you hell .... At a certain age you just shitcan everything and start over.
That's about where I'm at from looking at the outside of it. The accumulator is so rusty it looks like I could crush it like a beer can. But it does work and blows cold. I just need to keep feeding it cans. A charge used to last a couple weeks but now it's down to a day or a few hours.

Really....for a diy project and the value you get from it if you live where AC is needed....buying a vac pump and all new components is very cost effective ...
I keep telling myself it's cheaper than taking it to a shop.

Of course there is more.....and its conditional....as in if you drive dirt roads often ....or in a heavy pollen area ECT...
Around here they pave roads that have nothing wrong with them. Just for something to do I guess. Not many dirt roads left.

It is a horrendous pain in the arse to pull your evaporator.....but these systems are not filtered. Often it is worth pulling it apart and carefully cleaning the whole thing out. Then getting another 15 years out of it is more likely than not.
Isn't the orifice tube a filter?

I'm hopeful I'll get 15 years out of it by virtue of the fact that I only drive it about 1000 miles a year :p
 

Just_Randy

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You would think so but sometimes they will give you hell. I had mine apart to replace a damaged condenser. AC worked fine and had worked fine for years... went to vacuum it out after replacing the condenser and it wouldn't hold vacuum. It also would not hold nitrogen... I started replacing other stuff and the major leak I ended up finding was the front seal on the compressor. The low side pressure switch was also bad and leaked In the end I replaced everything. It was a frustrating experience, I spent a ton of money on parts and even more than that on tools... AC work on old vehicles is always a crap shoot.

As bobby said replacing the evap core is a major PITA, if you have to do that, it's easier if you remove the wheel well liner.
I wonder if pulling the vacuum is what did the seal in.

What more tools are needed? I bought the orifice tube puller, vac pump, and gauge set. I already have the AC/fuel line disconnecter things. I have everything 10x over to work on engines. If I buy more tools I'll have to build a new garage lol

So I watched the video on rockauto about using solvent to blow out the evaporator and honestly I'm not all that convinced blowing solvent through does much. I'm picturing blowing carb cleaner on a carb and none of the sludge comes off. Usually I have to scrub that stuff off. So I figure if I blow it out real good with compressed air then it's hard to imagine something coming loose to damage a new compressor when nothing ever came loose to damage the old one.

But I'm definitely open to any objections anyone has in my line of reasoning. I don't intend to be stubborn and ignore stern warnings, but don't really want to replace the evaporator.
 

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What more tools are needed?
A flush gun is handy (for other things, too) and not too expensive. It'll do a better job of flushing than just pouring flush agent into a component then blowing air through it. Especially in the case of wanting to service (clean) the evaporator decently without removing it.

You got a can tap for the gauge set? A HVAC thermometer is also handy.

Good luck!
 

bobbywalter

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I was not referring to cleaning the inside of the evaporator...that is a given.

..I was referring to cleaning the outside....

Then pressure test it. If there is an oily spot or two that may be a leak. But they get clogged up and you do all the work for sub par results if it is clogged up with dirt. Might be fine....might not. Have to look. It appears when it is chargerd it's been adequate...so maybe just isolate it and test.
 

Shran

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I wonder if pulling the vacuum is what did the seal in.

What more tools are needed? I bought the orifice tube puller, vac pump, and gauge set. I already have the AC/fuel line disconnecter things. I have everything 10x over to work on engines. If I buy more tools I'll have to build a new garage lol

So I watched the video on rockauto about using solvent to blow out the evaporator and honestly I'm not all that convinced blowing solvent through does much. I'm picturing blowing carb cleaner on a carb and none of the sludge comes off. Usually I have to scrub that stuff off. So I figure if I blow it out real good with compressed air then it's hard to imagine something coming loose to damage a new compressor when nothing ever came loose to damage the old one.

But I'm definitely open to any objections anyone has in my line of reasoning. I don't intend to be stubborn and ignore stern warnings, but don't really want to replace the evaporator.
Who knows. 30 year old compressor... hard to say... was working fine.

Technically you don't need the orifice tube puller. Needle nose pliers work fine, it's not real deep in there. Make sure you replace the accumulator/drier while the system is open. Doesn't hurt to replace all of the o-rings throughout the system too. I've noticed that o-rings on new AC parts are often the wrong size... might not hurt to buy an o-ring kit just in case.

Only other tools you might need are a can tap adapter if you're planning on filling through your manifold set. Otherwise you can pull a vacuum, remove the manifold & hoses and fill the system with one of those cheapo spray & pray hoses that screw onto refrigerant cans - that's how I do it, you only waste a tiny bit in the hoses vs quite a bit more in a manifold set. If you were weighing it in from a bigger container then it's better to go through the manifold but in our case I believe three 12oz cans should be a complete fill.
 

Just_Randy

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A flush gun is handy (for other things, too) and not too expensive. It'll do a better job of flushing than just pouring flush agent into a component then blowing air through it. Especially in the case of wanting to service (clean) the evaporator decently without removing it.
Do you really think I need solvent instead of just blowing compressed air through? I've never really seen solvent clean anything without scrubbing. Sometimes brake cleaner will blast things clean but that's toluene sprayed directly on the dirt like a pressure washer.

Speaking of brake cleaner, what about that? It evaporates completely leaving nothing but metal.

You got a can tap for the gauge set?
I don't see one.

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A HVAC thermometer is also handy.
What is that used for?
 

Just_Randy

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I was not referring to cleaning the inside of the evaporator...that is a given.

..I was referring to cleaning the outside....
Oh! Well how hard is it to get to it? If I can get to it shouldn't I just replace it?
 

Just_Randy

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Technically you don't need the orifice tube puller. Needle nose pliers work fine, it's not real deep in there.
I was wondering about that but wasn't sure.

Make sure you replace the accumulator/drier while the system is open. Doesn't hurt to replace all of the o-rings throughout the system too. I've noticed that o-rings on new AC parts are often the wrong size... might not hurt to buy an o-ring kit just in case.
I bought the kit with compressor, a mess of o-rings, orifice tube, and drier.

Only other tools you might need are a can tap adapter if you're planning on filling through your manifold set. Otherwise you can pull a vacuum, remove the manifold & hoses and fill the system with one of those cheapo spray & pray hoses that screw onto refrigerant cans - that's how I do it, you only waste a tiny bit in the hoses vs quite a bit more in a manifold set. If you were weighing it in from a bigger container then it's better to go through the manifold but in our case I believe three 12oz cans should be a complete fill.
I have the cheapo one. Actually I have the tap for the old style cans that puncture and don't reseal, but I don't have a tap for the new cans. I guess I'll do it like you said.

The howto thread says "The 97 has 25 ounces which is a hair over two 12 ounce cans, where the 94 uses 28 ounces (although I have seen 36 ounces for the 94 as well, but I believe that might be for the R12 version) the 1999 uses 30 ounces. This information will also be displayed on the sticker that is on top of the radiator support. Go with that amount if the sticker is still there and readable." https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Resurrecting_Your_Ford_Ranger_Air_Conditioning.shtml

2 cans is usually what it takes to make it work again.
 

Shran

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That's interesting. I ordered parts for a '94 Explorer for both my '88 Ranger and '92 Explorer... I ran 36oz of R134a in both and the pressures looked great and they function great. '94 was the first year for R134a, I doubt many were made with R12 systems.
 

Just_Randy

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That's interesting. I ordered parts for a '94 Explorer for both my '88 Ranger and '92 Explorer... I ran 36oz of R134a in both and the pressures looked great and they function great. '94 was the first year for R134a, I doubt many were made with R12 systems.
Maybe the cans aren't really 12 oz? Wouldn't surprise me in this age of shrink-flation lol

When I used the old cans one was enough. After they switched to the new cans I needed two. I figured my system was leaking more but maybe they put less in the cans or the cans leak.

Someone told me they bought a fire extinguisher from home depot and it was empty. He took it back and decided to open the box before buying it, but all of them were empty.

We live in interesting times!
 

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