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v8 swap with m50dr2 and 4406


Twister

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Like 85 said, the towes wont swap. Im not sure if a 97 bw4406 still uses a gear driven apeedo, the 4406 i used was from a 02. I finally ended upbusing an np205, ot ia quite heavy but it fit like it was meant to be there, the only downside is its lowrange is kind of crap and you need to make a cross member for it becuase they never cme behind an aluminum cased transmission.

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howlinghuskie

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Ive decided I'm going to go with a np208 from a bronco
 

Twister

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Ive decided I'm going to go with a np208 from a bronco
Cool. If you go with the 4.2 M5OD make sure you drill the bellhousing holes on the transmission to 7/16, as the 4.2 uses a metric bellhousing bolt.

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bobbywalter

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Like 85 said, the towes wont swap. Im not sure if a 97 bw4406 still uses a gear driven apeedo, the 4406 i used was from a 02. I finally ended upbusing an np205, ot ia quite heavy but it fit like it was meant to be there, the only downside is its lowrange is kind of crap and you need to make a cross member for it becuase they never cme behind an aluminum cased transmission.

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dude. :shok: i spent hours going over your build thread. and i can believe you believe that. while it sure as fawk is not even close to being true, i can see where thoughts could go that way. the 205 was put behind more aluminum transmissions then anything else by a long shot..dodge-ford-jeep-gm and a few others... i seen that and it made me lol... i dont know why you did not use the 4406...i know i would have if it had taken 3 hrs to put the 205 in with another guy on the initial fit up..after all that work and dropping it....i would have been like....hmmmm...what if i have to deal with this thing on the trail????.... then that 4406 would have been put right where it belonged..

these days i usually can not handle 205 by myself anymore, and it is humbling....cause for 30 years it was never an issue and i wondered why people were always worried about dealing with them in the wild...now i know:annoyed: so if it is not needed for doubler applications and front burn i strongly suggest against using these beasts.



i for one think you deserve an award for perseverance.. you have the same luck as i do, can jump in a barrel full of titties and come up choking on a dick every time kind of luck. and you patiently kept plugging along...life beating on ya with some serious losses....and then the truck always kicking ya in the berries, yet you still have er....i wish you lived closer as i would love to help ya out when i could.



howlinghuskie.....

most the 97,s have the speedo drive.

you will likely want a 3 in body lift to fit most full size transfer cases. or tilt the powertrain down at a hard angle...or tilt and cut and patch up the floor....

get the 150 4406 if possible, as they tend to be the regular style...not the tod style..theres a few different versions of this case so its easy to mess up. make sure it is a reg 4wd case...and not tod.


i would strongly suggest at least a 2 in body lift. i would also suggest to consider making the core and front part of the inner fenders removable to the cab horns.

if you do these things i would suggest to make some custom engine mounts as well so you can easily put the engine exactly where you want it.


and unless you have already replaced the factory body mounts...

with a truck as old as yours, the body lift will probably be harder to do then the engine swap:icon_rofl:.... and i am not kidding:sad:


there are compromises to using the f208 or any of the wider cases depending on how you choose to install this powertrain... the frame mods and/or longitudal offset leads to less then perfect driveline angles and premature joint wear with single/single driveline setups along with potential harmonic issues at certain speeds.

if you stay two piece for the rear shaft you can split that up and pretty much eliminate any drive line issues. most just use a cv at the case side, but it can get pricey doing that.

cutting the frame for clearance at right angles will greatly weaken it, avoid those types of cuts if possible....roll the rail edge with big crescent wrenches, or drill holes and cut to the holes for material removal if that is necessary for clearances..

the 4406 is usually available and cost effective. like the f208 they are big, but the ones i have used fit a little better longitudinally. yokes were a little harder to deal with though.

if the 4406 is just not for you, there is another 208 to consider...

the amc version. they work real good.

you will want to rob the parts off of a ford 208...(fixed yoke of course). you need the input shaft(31 spline) and tail housing/speedo drive. it allows you to keep the ford speedo setup so you have vss. or just adapt the jeep style speedo drive to your needs.

they also require you to cut an inch off of the output shaft of the trans or get a 1 to 1 1/4 inch spacer to go behind most of the ford transmissions.. they fit awesome though.

i have some spare 31 spline inputs and tail housings you can have if you locate a 208 jeep version so you dont have to buy two cases. i run the 32 spline gm in my ford cases so i have those 31 splines laying around...

and i have pilles of parts because i fawk these 208 cases up....allot!!

they are not as stout as the 4406, no version of the 208 is. the biggest problem with the amc is they are rare compared to the fords... you may go out and find the amc case right off the bat....you may never even see or find anyone that even knows what they are. so if ya find one...try to get two so you have a spare.:headbang:


on the air conditioning, you will need some new lines. depending on where you live, usually easily made. i have seen people modify the firewall and install the explorer hvac in total, with the dashboard in the gen 1-2-3 trucks...its a win win because no heater box mods and the wall is made for a 302...and you can bump it back a bit more if you wanted to.

i have to imagine that is a ton of work, but i have seen several vehicles done like that. it lets you keep all your explorer stuff. and the real bonus is parts replacements. well for a couple more years anyway will be readily available if ac is a priority. i have never had ac in my main ranger, but as the grey hairs fill in... it seems to be...becoming....a priority:D

you have it all with the donor vehicle....up to you how it gets done.


thats my worthless two cents anyway.

these are all the same and all unique at the same time...if that makes sense.
 

howlinghuskie

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I'm actually going to pick up the fixed yoke 208 on Friday along with the 97 m5odr2 not really looks to do a body lift. I'm not even sure the bolts would come out Being in Wisconsin its whole life. I'm thinking I can have the AC lines made at a refrigeration shop here. I don't mind moding the HVAC box.
 

howlinghuskie

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Also I'm planning on building plates to use the new v6 mounts I just put in
 

bobbywalter

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mmm.

well, it be whats it be:D its doable....but you will really want a jeep case with no b/l or a dana 20. see if you can get a dana 20 and see what has to be cut to use the zf adapter...i think you need to trim the output a little, thats not a problem though...the 20 is a better fit and good low range and has parts up he wazoo for it...also twin stickable. with no b/l i would go this way...see if they have a 20 instead where your picking up the 208 from...of course...a 20 wont be 15 bux and a case of beer like the 208 usually is.

http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/ZF_4WD_5Speed_to_dana20_Adapter/Bronco_Transmission_Adapters





dealing with the disaster of the body mounts being ready to crumble apart before you put power to it is part of the reason i suggested it. i assume your frame is ok?

the main bridge the rear body mounts attach to is often toast and needs a custom unit.

and for the mount bolts you just cut it all out(bolts) with a sawzall and patch the mount tops usually and replace with real bolts and gobs of antisieze. drop the tank and prep and clean it all up and cut the keps off that broke trying to get the bed off etc......i prefer to run the mustang pump in the tank(assuming efi) and pulling it all apart and running new brake line etc....

if you are going carb then just bypass the frame high pressure pump with a fuel filter and they sell a nice -an adapter for the engine side for a nice clean install that way. or hack if off and run your own stuff.

the ac box aint too bad, take the engine side off and make more like a flat L shape 1 inch from the end so there is some decent air transfer with some abs plastic and epoxied on...pretty easy...and i have done it with metel as well for 350-351 applications...302 is easier. but thats with some body lift...no body lift could get tight. gets done all the time though. using a heat gun takes some serious patients and works ok too. but epoxy usually ends up patching some burn through or brittl/crack after cool...:D


just..shit off the top of my tiny little mind..
 

Twister

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dude. :shok: i spent hours going over your build thread. and i can believe you believe that. while it sure as fawk is not even close to being true, i can see where thoughts could go that way. the 205 was put behind more aluminum transmissions then anything else by a long shot..dodge-ford-jeep-gm and a few others... i seen that and it made me lol... i dont know why you did not use the 4406...i know i would have if it had taken 3 hrs to put the 205 in with another guy on the initial fit up..after all that work and dropping it....i would have been like....hmmmm...what if i have to deal with this thing on the trail????.... then that 4406 would have been put right where it belonged..

these days i usually can not handle 205 by myself anymore, and it is humbling....cause for 30 years it was never an issue and i wondered why people were always worried about dealing with them in the wild...now i know:annoyed: so if it is not needed for doubler applications and front burn i strongly suggest against using these beasts.



i for one think you deserve an award for perseverance.. you have the same luck as i do, can jump in a barrel full of titties and come up choking on a dick every time kind of luck. and you patiently kept plugging along...life beating on ya with some serious losses....and then the truck always kicking ya in the berries, yet you still have er....i wish you lived closer as i would love to help ya out when i could.
If that is the case with the np205, then i do apologize to the OP, it was just what i was always led to believe, yeah for crap information. Thanks for clearing it up. Would i still need to build the 205 a support if it is going to be strictly a street truck? I Wanted to use the 4406 but was not going to fit in my truck, i already had a 3 in bodylift and it was still too big, maybe on a ranger it is a little different. If howlinghuskie was closer i would sell him the 4406 i have for super cheap. I only went with the np205 because i got it for a steal, and my truck is probably never going to see any trails because i live in the middle of boringville.

Sorry for the threadjack howlinghuskie
 
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howlinghuskie

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My frame is actually very good as is the rear cross over. In fact my shackles and rear hangers are very solid and original. Also I'm not really wanting to mess with swapping parts in the transfer case and if I was going to try and find a Dana 20 I might just as well run a 205. But my truck is basically a street truck. Hence why I decided on the 208.. Ylthe worst part of it is probably going to be fabbing up a shifter which shouldnt be bad other than hardening the rod.
 

howlinghuskie

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And twister not a problem
 

bobbywalter

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Engine Size
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4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
If that is the case with the np205, then i do apologize to the OP, it was just what i was always led to believe, yeah for crap information. Thanks for clearing it up. Would i still need to build the 205 a support if it is going to be strictly a street truck? I Wanted to use the 4406 but was not going to fit in my truck, i already had a 3 in bodylift and it was still too big, maybe on a ranger it is a little different. If howlinghuskie was closer i would sell him the 4406 i have for super cheap. I only went with the np205 because i got it for a steal, and my truck is probably never going to see any trails because i live in the middle of boringville.

Sorry for the threadjack howlinghuskie

yeah...the b2 does have a little less room, but depending on how you mount the engine there is plenty of tilt to fit it. but you wont usually be able to do that with plate mounts or vert mounts, the explorer gen 1 fit good though and the ext cab ranger has a slightly different hump...makes for a tough fit. i have had the 4406 in a b2 and explorer with 3 in body lift..


for cruising around with an uncut e4od i would not worry about a 205 at all...with a cut aod/c6/m5od housing i would not want to bang it on stuff...i would not be afraid to daily drive it at all just hanging off the trans..but i also put studs in them.





My frame is actually very good as is the rear cross over. In fact my shackles and rear hangers are very solid and original. Also I'm not really wanting to mess with swapping parts in the transfer case and if I was going to try and find a Dana 20 I might just as well run a 205. But my truck is basically a street truck. Hence why I decided on the 208.. Ylthe worst part of it is probably going to be fabbing up a shifter which shouldnt be bad other than hardening the rod.

fabbing up a shifter will be the easiest part.

i dont agree about the 205 at all....you can find great deals on either case...but rare is a great deal on a d20....they are incomparable for this application with no body lift in size and weight. i guess you have put a 208 iin a ranger before? not really ideal to do with no body lift.


there was another option for keeping the 1350 stock case....i will see if i can find that for ya....it will require customizing the shafts still but likely the best option...
 

Twister

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yeah...the b2 does have a little less room, but depending on how you mount the engine there is plenty of tilt to fit it. but you wont usually be able to do that with plate mounts or vert mounts, the explorer gen 1 fit good though and the ext cab ranger has a slightly different hump...makes for a tough fit. i have had the 4406 in a b2 and explorer with 3 in body lift..


for cruising around with an uncut e4od i would not worry about a 205 at all...with a cut aod/c6/m5od housing i would not want to bang it on stuff...i would not be afraid to daily drive it at all just hanging off the trans..but i also put studs in them.








fabbing up a shifter will be the easiest part.

i dont agree about the 205 at all....you can find great deals on either case...but rare is a great deal on a d20....they are incomparable for this application with no body lift in size and weight. i guess you have put a 208 iin a ranger before? not really ideal to do with no body lift.


there was another option for keeping the 1350 stock case....i will see if i can find that for ya....it will require customizing the shafts still but likely the best option...
Thanks. I didnt slot my engine crossmemeber much when i used the vert mounts as i had a 3 in body lift, that is probably when i didnt have much room for the 4406. I think advancedadapters makes an adapter to retain the stock bw 1350 case.

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bobbywalter

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4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"

howlinghuskie

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Partvof what lead me to the 208 over the 4406 is that it is roughly half the price of the 4406 and will come real close in price to 4406 after putting a new chain in I was originally considering the 4406 but was told by several people they don't fit well at all in the 1st and second gens
 

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