I find that the dip stick tube comes up under the heater/ ac air box. is there a mod/ differnt tube that makes it easy to get to?
Just want to know what others are doing for this ,need to replace the seal any way. May see if the tube canbe shortend/ altered first.
I reshaped my tube to curve up around the bell housing and welded a tab on to bolt to the back of the head. The dipstick is tucked neatly at the back of the intake behind the throttle body. bearsngr
Got it bent to the frount. anyone know what size "o" ring it takes?
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I've looked high and low for one of those stupid o-rings, no one had one that matched up. I found this at o'reilly
Pioneer Inc. - Automatic Transmission Dipstick Tube Seal
Part Number: 762001-10 from Orielys. phychopete
from a o d dipstick tube
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from edelbrock intack manifold gaskets
I recently got a edelbrock intake for my 302/ 5l and was wondering what you would use on the gaskets ? I got mine used so it didnt come with every thing like the newone would have. here is the on line insructions
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst.../350-71211.pdf
the instruction say to use some type of seallent on the heads /manifold and gaskets page 4&5, and rtv at the frount and rear of manifold. found these instruction also
http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...0/350-2121.pdf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85_Ranger4x4
I use a product called "high-tack" or something like that, it is what I tell the parts store guys and what I get. I just spray it on the head side and let it set up a little, it holds the gasket in place while I wrangle the silicone and intake around.
My Weiand intake instructions said pretty much the same thing, run a bead (thick enough to touch the intake and squish a little the whole length) of silicone (I used Permatex Ultra Black) on the front and back of the lifter valley. Overlap it a little with the regular gaskets so you get a good seal there too. SBF's are sort of known to push out gaskets, this is my first one so I just followed my directions, no leaks and I have done it twice (changed the cam and lifters)
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So , the Elelbrock gop is just to hold the gaskets in place?
Here are the Weiand instructions I followed, they may be a little clearer.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...s/wnd-w535.pdf
The spray is just to hold the gaskets in place and maybe help them seal a tad better. My dad has done it for years on gaskets on all sorts of things. I first learned of the silicone across the front and rear of the intake from an old timer that builds racecar engines on the side and worked with my brother at his first dealership.
Spray the side gaskets with sealant (Permatex 80065), chuck the end gaskets in the trash and replace with a 1/4" bead of oil resistant silicone (Permatex Ultra Black). Quote:
Originally Posted by 85_Ranger4x4
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I've been using Permatex Form-A-Gasket #2 and Fel Pro gaskets for years.... never once let me down. It gives you plenty of time to get everything together, and it's tacky enough to hold them in place while you are assembling it.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...70&cagpspn=pla
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shane96ranger
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Thanks. I have used adheasive and sealant on other gasket but only sealant around the water ports and end gaskets on intakes. lean something new every day.
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From space between radiator and fan
What would be the least amount of space between a mechical fan and the radiator?
I'd go as close as half and inch if it isn't a flex fan. adsm08
2.3l fan/with cluch
Well, that isn't a flex fan. adsm08
maybe we misunderstood the question? If it has a fan shroud the blades can be a couple inches from the radiator....the fan needs to fit far enough into the shroud to form a vacuum.....
BUT....like ads_ said keep the blades at least 1/2" away from the radiator
doorgunner
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THanks, i was thinking it would be more than that.
You don't need a lot of space, just enough so the fan doesn't hit the rad and kill it. Now it won't be fun to work on like that, but it will work. adsm08
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Radiator is in droped and set in to where the ac use to be. 2.3L fan is in with over 1 inch maybe 1 1/4 clearance at the closes point. Radiator to low to and fan close to use fan shroud.
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from fuel Plumbing and electrical Issues
...........I am not sure if this helps or not,but I converted my 95 mustang to carb by useing a 1988 ranger in tank fuel pump.
I got the ideal when my 1988 ranger fuel injected intake fuel pump went out.I realized it had a pusher (intake low pressure pump) and in high pressure on the rail pump. Silver tooth
I am going carb as well, asked about the ranger low presure pump and got someone that was positive that a carb has to have 7psi exact(carbs are not a pressure opperated like injectors) all they need is anougth flow and not to much pressure . thanks for the info.
Are you useing the return?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvertooth
No return ,just a line going to the carb.I just grounded the wire for the fuel pump relay so it will run in start and key on.
The pump I used is for an 1988 ranger fuel injected (in tank,low pressure)I got it at auto zone,I think it was about 50$.
thank, thats what I needed to know
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just adding some from other related threads that I have dunn or may use.
John