Twister 85 B2 Build

[dangerranger83]

I'm still having a last second debate on to use the mustang mounts or going with the plates. The plates do look like they would allow for a quicker cleaner install and dont have to "guess" on where to drill/cut onto the crossmember plus will allow for the engine to sit lower and thats always a plus having a full size transmission and no body lift.

I'm going to have both options at the ready more or less.

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[Twister]

What mounts are you going with?

If I had to do it over again it would be V6 mounts with plates...

I was planning on using the convertable mounts, i havent looked much into making plates, the only problem with is i dont really have a way to cut them out.

Well i got the transmission, the guy i bought it from was a huge ford guy, he knew what he was talking about. It is from a 94 f150, had about 130k miles on it. He said he did regular fluid changes in it, and by the looks of the inside i would say he was telling the truth. He took $150 for it

Here are the pics

 

[dangerranger83]

That's a good score. Now to decide on the transfercase you want. If I could go back I would get the np205 due to you can due stick it (read up on why I.e. google search that) but the down side to that is its low range is only 2:1.

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[Twister]

That's a good score. Now to decide on the transfercase you want. If I could go back I would get the np205 due to you can due stick it (read up on why I.e. google search that) but the down side to that is its low range is only 2:1.

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A lot cheaper than the salvage yard thats for sure. I haven't decided on the transfer case, i am looking into them. I dont want one that i have to notch the frame for, and the gear ratio isn't a huge deal, because i dont wheel much.

 

[dangerranger83]

The only one im told that you need to notch the frame for is the bw1356. The np205 is small but due to the case being made of cast steel, it's a heavy pig and will need a support bracket for it. The np208 has rear slip yoke, at least the ford ones do, but can be converted to a fixed yoke a few different ways if you desire to do that.

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[Twister]

The only one im told that you need to notch the frame for is the bw1356. The np205 is small but due to the case being made of cast steel, it's a heavy pig and will need a support bracket for it. The np208 has rear slip yoke, at least the ford ones do, but can be converted to a fixed yoke a few different ways if you desire to do that.

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I am thinking maybe a np208, a slip yoke doesn't really bother me, and like you said it can be converted.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

If you are needing a shorter FEAD there was a 94 or 95 GT in the one north of the Quest center, I am fairly sure it would would work with yours. When I was shopping for a shorter setup I was told that it would work with my stock harmonic balancer, and since I think the water pump is the same length as yours it would work with yours too. Might check into it a little, the getcha is I think yours may be the different balance engine so if you gotta swap the balancer (and if yours is not a 50oz balance engine) your are out of luck. You would need the timing cover, water pump and obviously the brackets and accessories if it would work.

Scratch this, the pre 50oz balancer is much smaller than a 50oz balancer... unless infact you have a 50oz engine.

 

[Twister]

Scratch this, the pre 50oz balancer is much smaller than a 50oz balancer... unless infact you have a 50oz engine.

How do i tell if i have a 50 oz engine, and how do i tell if my FEAD is to big or will work?

 

[dangerranger83]

You can fit the large v-belt FEAD under the hood of a ranger. But the question comes down to what rad are you going to run, what fan and if you want to cut your front core support.

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[Twister]

You can fit the large v-belt FEAD under the hood of a ranger. But the question comes down to what rad are you going to run, what fan and if you want to cut your front core support.

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Currently it has a serpentine belt setup. I am going to run a 4L rad i have, and i was planning on running a Taurus fan as a puller.

 

[dangerranger83]

You can get that whole setup to fit. And you will have more room if you want to trim your core support a bit to tuck the 4L in it.

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[85_Ranger4x4]

You can get that whole setup to fit. And you will have more room if you want to trim your core support a bit to tuck the 4L in it.

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Looks like a Fox setup, no way it will work with a puller fan without moving the radiator ahead... unless the fan is really thin, I had 1/2" between the WP pulley and radiator in its stock location. I picked up a Fox FEAD on a whim because the front of the car had been ripped off and it was easy to get at, same depth as what I had.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28738_ford_basics/photo_03.html

 

[Twister]

Looks like a Fox setup, no way it will work with a puller fan without moving the radiator ahead... unless the fan is really thin, I had 1/2" between the WP pulley and radiator in its stock location. I picked up a Fox FEAD on a whim because the front of the car had been ripped off and it was easy to get at, same depth as what I had.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/28738_ford_basics/photo_03.html

So what is the preferred FEAD?

 

[dangerranger83]

Explorer one. It will give you one belt that can run everything. But you have to change the water pump, timing cover alternator bracket, alternator, etc....alot of stuff.

Im also told with the exploder FEAD, you have to notch one of the brackets to get the dizzy in.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The 94-95 Mustang is close to the same length as the Explorer, still have to change a bunch of stuff but you can keep the harmonic balancer.

I am going to get hooking up the Explorer FEAD stuff next so I can tell you first hand how that goes. One thing I really like about the Explorer setup is the alternator and PS pump bolt on and are easily removable. With the traditional pivet bolts in the Rangers shallow engine bay you start having conflicts with stuff in front of the engine (like the radiator) It is really annoying to have to to pull the radiator to change the alternator and when you are running a pusher fan like me you have to pick on the transmission coolers, efan and grille... not much of a quick roadside fix.

Of all the stuff that changed going to the Explorer setup, the power steering pressure line has me the most nervous.

You could probably make what you have work, you will have to move the radiator either way. I picked up an inch and a half of room with the Explorer pump which brought me up to two inches between the pulley and radiator... you will need more than that for a Taurus fan. I did sneak a flex fan in there.