tow package?

[Milker]

whats in a tow package. ive got a go kart trailer to pull andi used my 3.0 5 spd ranger for it.

it did a good job and i want to use my f-150 but i wantto get a 5spd or auto ranger with a tow package to pull it

but i dont know whats in a tow package

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

a class III reciever hitch and flat-4 trailer wiring connector.

 

[truckmanson]

my edge has the 4 pin trailer wiring but no hitch, my dads 150 had a 4 pin and I think a 7 pin with the hitch with the trailer towing, his also had a higher payload package.

 

[WNY964x4]

my ranger , fo some unknown reason , has a class 3 hitch , 4 pin connector , auxiliary trans cooler , and a p/s cooler

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Towing packages usually include a hitch (but I'm not sure that they always do), transmission cooler (if it's an auto trans), power steering cooler (sometimes), and sometimes it bumps you up to a heavier brake and spring package. The 4-pin flat wiring connector is always on Rangers whether they have the towing package or not. On a bigger truck you may get an electric brake controller as well.

My Ranger did not come with a towing package, but since I got the higher GVWR, I got the bigger brakes, heavier springs, and power steering cooler (although I'm not sure if the ps cooler is standard on the new rack and pinion systems). Since it left the factory I've added a heavier set of leaf springs (custom pack), and a class 3 hitch plus I'm thinking of adding a brake controller soon.

 

[97ranger4x4]

what size trailers are you towing? I have never used a brake controller before. Do you mind explaining how they work?

All the trailers I have towed have surge breaks on them.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

what size trailers are you towing? I have never used a brake controller before. Do you mind explaining how they work?

All the trailers I have towed have surge breaks on them.

I hate surge brakes.

So far I haven't really needed a brake controller for anything my Ranger has towed. I have run an F-350 dump for work pulling a 2 axle trailer with a skid steer and I gotta say, it is quite nice having electric brakes on the trailer to help slow things down.

I do intend to buy or build a skeletonized trailer for hauling my choptop on (I think I can make it work to where I'll be just under the max towing for my Ranger), but I don't want to run without electric trailer brakes with that sort of a load. I'm also thinking of getting a smaller trailer and have been toying with the idea of outfitting it with electric brakes and a pintle hitch as well.

Electric brake controllers collect input from your brake pedal and convert it to electric signal that they send to the electric brakes on the trailer. The harder you push on the brake pedal in your truck, the more braking force is also applied to the brakes on the trailer which help to reduce your stopping distance and keep the trailer under control during slowing and stopping (it's a real big help when some idiot cuts you off). You're still not gonna stop as fast as empty with no trailer, but a lot faster than a with a trailer with no brakes. Plus such setups require a breakaway switch, which means that if the trailer comes separated from the tow vehicle, it causes a switch to function which activates the trailer brakes, keeping it from running out of control down the road (and killing a few people in the process... that's happened twice now around where I live in the past few years, trailer came unhooked and someone else paid the price).

Me, I'd rather be safe than sorry. That's why I use tie-downs and rope religiously to secure loads. When it looks like it's tied down good enough, if I can find another spot to throw a tie down, I do. Been that way since I lost a 4x8 sheet of 1" blue foam out of the back of my Ranger when I had a cap on. I suspect that whoever was behind me when it came out wasn't too happy.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

Towing packages usually include a hitch (but I'm not sure that they always do), transmission cooler (if it's an auto trans), power steering cooler (sometimes), and sometimes it bumps you up to a heavier brake and spring package. The 4-pin flat wiring connector is always on Rangers whether they have the towing package or not. On a bigger truck you may get an electric brake controller as well.

i dont think any TTB trucks came with P/S coolers. i believe they are standard on all R&P trucks (its been a while, so dont quote me).

the rangers only have 2 brake options: 9" and 10" drums. this is usually based on the GVWR, not wether it has a tow package or not (most ext. cabs and 4x4's get 10" drums).

not all rangers have the 4-flat connector (mine didnt, for example), not even the newer trucks.

 

[JohnnyO]

All '98 up Rangers came with effectively a Class II tow package. 4 pin connector (never seen one without it) and the bumper ball mount. A Class III factory hitch was optional but an auxilary auto trans cooler came on any truck with an automatic.
Some model years the factory "tow package" got you the Class III hitch and a limited-slip axle.
Trailer brake requirements vary by state, most all require brakes of some type for trailers over #2000, some states for trailers over #1500.

 

[Milker]

im with you with the trailer brakes. ive pulled skid loader with my 150. (not on an actually skid steer trailer just a farmer rigged one) and we got them put on our cattle trailer and it really helps.

my ranger didnt come with any light hook up or hitch, ive used the bumper (i dont like it)

i have a hitch to put on just gotta figure out how it goes on. i have the trailer brakes on my 150 but the light hook up (not the 4 prong the bigger one) wont work and i cant find where it isnt working

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

im with you with the trailer brakes. ive pulled skid loader with my 150. (not on an actually skid steer trailer just a farmer rigged one) and we got them put on our cattle trailer and it really helps.

my ranger didnt come with any light hook up or hitch, ive used the bumper (i dont like it)

i have a hitch to put on just gotta figure out how it goes on. i have the trailer brakes on my 150 but the light hook up (not the 4 prong the bigger one) wont work and i cant find where it isnt working

I've never used the bumper hitch on my Ranger. When I needed a hitch to tow with, I bought a Class III for it. Since the hitch was made for the truck, I had to remove one pair of bolts for the bumper and utilize another set of holes already in the frame to bolt it up. I tossed the standard hardware and used some 1/2" diameter grade 8 bolts, IIRC.

As far as the problem with the stuff for the F-150, check your grounds, both on the trailer an on the truck. We had a problem with one of our F-350's and it turned out to be one of the grounds on the truck for the trailer wiring.


Wicked-- Both of the F-350 trucks we have for work were ordered with the tow package, both are TIB trucks and both have PS coolers, they just tuck 'em up in the grill like an auto trans cooler.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

Wicked-- Both of the F-350 trucks we have for work were ordered with the tow package, both are TIB trucks and both have PS coolers, they just tuck 'em up in the grill like an auto trans cooler.

i should have been more specific...i meant TTB rangers

 

[Will]

what size trailers are you towing? I have never used a brake controller before. Do you mind explaining how they work?

All the trailers I have towed have surge breaks on them.

There're two types. One is called an electronic delay controller and the other is a proportional type. The electronic delay ones are the least expensive and they really suck. You step on the brakes, they begin to apply them at a set rate going from weak to strong. They do not know the difference between a panic stop and a tap to turn off the cruise control.

The proportional type (Tekonsha Prodigy being the best Ive used) has an inertia device in it that senses how hard the vehicle is trying to stop and ramps up the current to the trailer brakes proportionally. It knows when you are trying to stop right now and puts full power to the trailer brakes. I year ago October I had my family in my crewcab with my skidsteer and backhoe on the trailer and was going 80mph when some shit with a 12' long car decided to pop out into a 15' space while I was going by a semi. With a piece of shit electronic delay I would have ran him over flat. What happened was, I stomped the brakes, it sucked me down 20mph in a snap, I let go and stomped the gas and we continued on our way. The panic button on those electronic delay units are way far away from when you need reflexes to save your ass.

I do like surge brakes a lot. They also know when you want to stop right now. There is a direct-acting master cylinder in the trailer tongue. Its perfect.

I have also had hydraulic tap brakes and those are good too. I dont know if you can even get them anymore.

The best part about the Prodigy specifically is it is so easy to set up the unit. Some proportional controllers have pretty strict placement requirements. Electronic delay controllers can be placed anywhere, but the garbage can is the best place.

 

[97ranger4x4]

There're two types. One is called an electronic delay controller and the other is a proportional type. The electronic delay ones are the least expensive and they really suck. You step on the brakes, they begin to apply them at a set rate going from weak to strong. They do not know the difference between a panic stop and a tap to turn off the cruise control.

The proportional type (Tekonsha Prodigy being the best Ive used) has an inertia device in it that senses how hard the vehicle is trying to stop and ramps up the current to the trailer brakes proportionally. It knows when you are trying to stop right now and puts full power to the trailer brakes. I year ago October I had my family in my crewcab with my skidsteer and backhoe on the trailer and was going 80mph when some shit with a 12' long car decided to pop out into a 15' space while I was going by a semi. With a piece of shit electronic delay I would have ran him over flat. What happened was, I stomped the brakes, it sucked me down 20mph in a snap, I let go and stomped the gas and we continued on our way. The panic button on those electronic delay units are way far away from when you need reflexes to save your ass.

I do like surge brakes a lot. They also know when you want to stop right now. There is a direct-acting master cylinder in the trailer tongue. Its perfect.

I have also had hydraulic tap brakes and those are good too. I dont know if you can even get them anymore.

The best part about the Prodigy specifically is it is so easy to set up the unit. Some proportional controllers have pretty strict placement requirements. Electronic delay controllers can be placed anywhere, but the garbage can is the best place.

Well thanks for the info. I never do any heavy towing but I am always curious to learn about different setups.

 

[Jspafford]

There're two types. One is called an electronic delay controller and the other is a proportional type. The electronic delay ones are the least expensive and they really suck. You step on the brakes, they begin to apply them at a set rate going from weak to strong. They do not know the difference between a panic stop and a tap to turn off the cruise control.

The proportional type (Tekonsha Prodigy being the best Ive used) has an inertia device in it that senses how hard the vehicle is trying to stop and ramps up the current to the trailer brakes proportionally. It knows when you are trying to stop right now and puts full power to the trailer brakes. I year ago October I had my family in my crewcab with my skidsteer and backhoe on the trailer and was going 80mph when some shit with a 12' long car decided to pop out into a 15' space while I was going by a semi. With a piece of shit electronic delay I would have ran him over flat. What happened was, I stomped the brakes, it sucked me down 20mph in a snap, I let go and stomped the gas and we continued on our way. The panic button on those electronic delay units are way far away from when you need reflexes to save your ass.

I do like surge brakes a lot. They also know when you want to stop right now. There is a direct-acting master cylinder in the trailer tongue. Its perfect.

I have also had hydraulic tap brakes and those are good too. I dont know if you can even get them anymore.

The best part about the Prodigy specifically is it is so easy to set up the unit. Some proportional controllers have pretty strict placement requirements. Electronic delay controllers can be placed anywhere, but the garbage can is the best place.

I had a prodigy in my F-250. I sell them where I work, so I got a good discount. I never recommend anything else to anyone... well unless I recommend the newer unit that replaced the prodigy called a P3.

One of the guys who works with me always tries to sell the elcheapo $50 job... I wait until he leaves and then explain to the customer what he gets for his money... They like my explination better.