stupid auto hubs

[Milker]

today i got my truck stuck 2 times. ive used the 4x4 2 times before

it seems like it wont kick in, it does but it makes a heck of a noise and keeps makin noise as i drive it

and sometime it doesnt kick out

any info about the hubs would be helpful. is a 94 ranger, do they run off vaccum?

my dad says it might not be kicking in or its the universal joint

i need help, i want to switch them out for manual ones

 

[TRX501RYAN]

well i had problems with them as well
just after xmas, i swapped in mile marker manuals and havnt looked back! when its snowy out i leave them locked when its nice i unlock them, sure you gotta get out of the truck, but they work.... when you need them


Fairly easy install as well! thats my opinion as well as many others around here will agree the autos fail commonly on the ranger

 

[Milker]

changing them was my plan, i just needed it to get warm.

my cousin in law worked on them before and hes coming out to see what he can do.

where did you get the manual hubs?

 

[97ranger4x4]

I got mine online. If you search on here you can probably find where someone recently bought them. I got mine 4 or 5 years ago...

They have worked great ever since!

 

[BlackBII]

Search for Warn or Mile Marker hubs, (120-180$) Dana 35 27 spline. You'll need a "conversion" kit as well, which really only includes the spindle nuts, which you can get from 4wp or an auto parts store.

And, No, the Auto's are not Vaccum for your truck.

 

[racsan]

i got my mile marker manual hubs from autozone 2 or 3 years ago. havent had any problems with them, my auto hubs wouldnt always work and sometimes only one side would unlock. now i know for sure im lockes or not. yeah, its a bit cold to do a hub swap, but it doesnt take too long to do. you'll need the socket for the new hub nuts as well, its about 15 bucks. i didnt need the socket for the auto hub nuts, just used a large pair of channel locks.

 

[97ranger4x4]

you'll need the socket for the new hub nuts as well, its about 15 bucks. i didnt need the socket for the auto hub nuts, just used a large pair of channel locks.

When getting the new socket, make sure you get the one that is enclosed similar to this one

When getting the new socket, make sure you get the one that is enclosed


Not the open one like this.

I have both and will agree that the second one is a PITA to use. its only worth it for a paper weight.

You will also need a torque wrench for the spindle locknuts. The torque sequence is for the first nut (the one with the little dimple) Torque to 30 ft/lb while spinning the rotor the opposite direction. Then back off 90*. Then retorque to 16 IN/lb (hand tight, just enough to take the play out). Put the washer with the holes on the first locknut so the dimple fits in one of the holes. Then put the outer locknut and torque to 150 FT/lbs. Some people say to torque it to 200 ft/lbs especially if you run larger tires. I have 31s and have never had a problem with the 150 ft/lbs.


Here is a link to the locknuts you will need

Hope this info helps!

 

[TRX501RYAN]

I got milemarkers from summit racing


So far all the info is good stuff

 

[toyotakiller10]

i got warn hubs right from napa your nearest napa should have them right in stock its a common thing they carry the conversion is there too

 

[kroed11581]

When I did the swap on my 91 Explorer, someone had mangled the threads on the spindle. I had to take the air die grinder and cut a notch in the big auto hub nut and use an air hammer to back it off. As far as the manual hub nuts go, I use the big socket and turn it with my hand to tighten the first one, back it off 45-90 degrees, put the lock washer on, make sure the hole lines up with the pin, and put the outer nut on, tightening very tight (I don't have a torque wrench, I've always guessed, and never had a problem). It's not difficult at all, the hardest part is getting the old auto nut off the spindle.

 

[Kyle M.]

the auto hubs are just that automatic. Basically it is a clutched type thing for when you engage your transfer case, the axles start spinning and the hubs engage automatically(at least this is how I figured they work). I had a problem with a set of autos where only one would engage, basically keeping the truck in 2wd because of the open front diff. I got a set of hubs from the bone yard for $50 and the nuts and washers from Napa for not too much, maybe $25.

If you have alot of noise in the front end, I would check your outter most U joints on your axles. Mine were bad and they made a lot of noise, it would only make that noise when i was in 4wd.

 

[Milker]

good news and bad news. since im not a total mechanic my cuz works on these kinds of thnigs and he went to skool for it.

he comes down looks at it and we took the tires off, the actual 4x4 hub came off with the tire. like the hub entirely we could see the splines.

it wasnt the hubs fault, thats the good news. the bad is that the problem is in the pumpkin.

the shaft turns then makes a boom like it just kicked in. so he says somwthings bad in the pumpkin and he never had seen a 4x4 like mine before.

the way i see it is ill keep it on dry ground and if the 4x4 goes out im takin the forn shaft off and making it 2wd, or buy an awd forester er a subaru wagon

 

[97ranger4x4]

Hmm, That sounds weird. The front differential is the stongest part of the whole 4wd system. I cant see that being the problem. The hub is supposed to come right off so you can see the splines. Sometimes they have little clips that hold it on but I just took those stupid things off. But because the wheel is torqued on, it keeps the hub on nice and tight. Trust me that is normal.

I would consider going and have it check out by a professional. If your cousin has never seen a 4x4 system like ours then no offense he may not be the best person to ask.

Trust me it is much cheaper to have it properly diagnosed, throw a set of manual lock hubs on there then it is to buy a new subaru.

 

[bigredscowboy]

changing them was my plan, i just needed it to get warm.

my cousin in law worked on them before and hes coming out to see what he can do.

where did you get the manual hubs?

I did this today and the high was 28F.

Super easy and only cost about $200 whereas the 4x4 center said it would cost at least $800. Here's the deal. The auto's fail sooner or later. Yours are clicking so they're almost done for. My recent post here has links to buy manuals and conversion kit but I did use the Jeep Warn 37780 instead of the ford 29071. How To here

It's already been said but to reiterate, if your cousin has never seen auto lockers like this before don't listen to him. Search the threads and buy manuals.