spark plug help

[beejium]

OK this is more of a general problem, but still has to do with a specific ranger. An old friend brought his ranger into the shop. Apparently his brother in law tried to do a tune up on the truck and now the #3 plug is stripped. Not the threads, but the nut that's molded to the plug. Does anyone know of other options than: easy outs, left hand tap or sending the head out to be drilled? I would like to keep the plug in one piece so that i don't have to inspect/clean the cylinder walls.

 

[ThreePointO]

About the only thing I can think of would be to try and find a deepwell socket - metric or standard - that's a bit smaller than what the sparkplug's original size is, and see if you can't hammer the socket onto the stripped nut. If you can force the socket onto the plug then you should be able to attach a ratchet to the socket and unscrew the plug.

 

[irishblessing]

well at least you didnt strip the threads in the block although they have kits for fixing that
i would look into gator grip i dont know if they sell it anymore but its a socket that will form the the stripped bolt good luck!

 

[beejium]

Unfortunately my boss and I tried an array of sockets and tapping them into place, which is normally the first approach I take on an rounded nut. ran into a problem with H.V.A.C components being in the way as well as the fender. Just couldn't get enough swing... tried from under the wheel well with the truck up in the air and the angle is too much.

 

[RumpRanger98]

i was thinking the same thing with the gator grip. They sell it at sears for about $23 I saw it there yesterday when I went and bought some sockets. They had 2 sizes, both were deeps sockets. I would give that a shot, it could at least grip something and maybe losen the plug. if it dont work, well those sockets are pretty handy to have anyways.

 

[beejium]

I'm gonna give that a try, but might be too thick to fit between the nut on the plug and recess of the head. When I was working on it earlier I noticed that I was running into a problem with some of the side walls of the sockets being too thick. I stopped in to advanced auto only because its a stone throw away from home. They had an Irwin brand cup type easy out that I was thinking if I snap the ceramic end clean off I might be able to get the teeth on the nut, add a little heat and back it off. Hopefully satisfying both worlds by getting it out and leaving nothing in the cylinder. that is unless someone has a better plan of attack.

 

[beejium]

well at least you didnt strip the threads in the block although they have kits for fixing that
i would look into gator grip i dont know if they sell it anymore but its a socket that will form the the stripped bolt good luck!

2 bad i didn't egg the nut either. 80% of my work comes from others giving up and or screwing up. < Figured i'd keep it G-rated for once.

 

[ThreePointO]

Unfortunately my boss and I tried an array of sockets and tapping them into place, which is normally the first approach I take on an rounded nut. ran into a problem with H.V.A.C components being in the way as well as the fender. Just couldn't get enough swing... tried from under the wheel well with the truck up in the air and the angle is too much.

You'd think with a little V-6 in a pick-up truck everything would be readily accessible, but it's ridiculous how hard some of the plugs are to get at on the 3.0 Ranger, especially the plugs on the passenger side of the engine.

Is there room to get an air chisel in there? Maybe you could try to force a socket on with an air chisel fitted with a blunt bit.

 

[irishblessing]

lol dont use an air chisel i found it easier on the passenger sid to take off the plastic wheel well
(i would have suggested this earlier but did not know you had a v6) take that off it only a couple screws pull it out and its alot eaiser to get at the plugs
also might want to take off the tire for even more room

 

[fastpakr]

You'd think with a little V-6 in a pick-up truck everything would be readily accessible, but it's ridiculous how hard some of the plugs are to get at on the 3.0 Ranger, especially the plugs on the passenger side of the engine.

Is there room to get an air chisel in there? Maybe you could try to force a socket on with an air chisel fitted with a blunt bit.

Don't feel bad, they aren't exactly easy on any of the Rangers I've touched. The 2.8, 2.9, and 4.0 are all a pain, and the 2.3 I've got is an 8 plug design that almost requires removing the intake manifold to get to them all.

 

[ThreePointO]

....and the 2.3 I've got is an 8 plug design that almost requires removing the intake manifold to get to them all.

Oh man, that's crazy that a 4 banger should should be so difficult to change plugs on. That's something that seems to run in the Ford family - if I recall correctly there was a big block Mustang or Cobra that required you to undo one of the trans or motor mounts and jack up the rear of the engine in order to get at one of the rear spark plugs

 

[beejium]

Thanks guys I got it out. Before I left yesterday day I sprayed P.B. Blaster around the plug. This morning I broke off the ceramic. Using an easy out I was able to angle an extension between the easy out and the outer wheel well area. I slammed that thing so hard my boss walked in scratching his head. Put the ratchet on and it walked right out.

 

[irishblessing]

well congrats your 1 step closer

 

[beejium]

well congrats your 1 step closer

so determined to to make it law that i work through the dust cover. did i say that i didn't? how else would the damn extention reach the socket. problem is you can turn a ratchet, but you need more room to swing a hammer.

 

[bigcountry]

if you think a ranger has no room under the hood you need to look at the old yotas the ones with the 3.0L v6s on the passenger side its almost impossible to reach the plugs. but yea the only advice i can think of is to take things out of your way to make it easier on you to reach the plug