+1 to what others said, definitely just replace all of it at once. The original clutch master is not very robust in my opinion, neither is the slave for that matter- the whole job is a bit of pain so definitely do everything at once (slave, clutch, master, pilot bearing, rear main seal too) and also you should consider going with a LUK brand clutch kit that has all components, a lot of cheap aftermarket slaves fail prematurely. That is no fun. I was told the OEM clutches are LUK clutches, not sure if that's true but I know they are well liked.
The quick disconnect can be tricky but it usually does work well
Bench bleed the entire slave and master assembly before installation. There are good videos on youtube. It gets much harder to bleed when installed and the air becomes harder to purge. There are a lot of ways to do this.
To do the master, find a post or something you can string the master assembly up on, vertically, with the actual cylinder pointing upright as much as possible, and then pump it with a screwdriver as you keep adding new brake fluid (DO NOT use the new master pushrod to pump/bleed master assembly, you want to install that after the master is on the truck's firewall, otherwise clearances get very tight trying to install the whole unit). Bleed that thing until it has just the smallest amount of play in the cylinder- I think no more than a 1/16" is what you want. Rap the hard plastic line with a screw driver over and over while the assembly is upright to shock air bubbles free and force them to rise. It's a bit of a process. Sometimes I walk around with the whole assembly shaking it violently... air bubbles like to get caught in the bends and crevices and will present themselves later if left
As for the slave, I have always connected it to the new, bled master assembly and pushed brake fluid through it in a similar fashion on a bench. Just don't let the reservoir of the master get too low or you will introduce air and defeat all your hard work. Probably best to fill/bleed master with the bleeder near top so that rising air heads towards the bleeder and not get stuck somewhere. I have in the past held the master compressed before opening the bleeder to get the maximum push through the unit, then quickly closed bleeder with master cylinder compressed so as to not introduce air during release of master. Seems to help
Also, the pre bled units are good, I have used them before, but sometimes they aren't 100% perfectly bled! Just be sure to bench test it yourself and be sure its bled before installation
EDIT: I'm not sure how you properly remove a pilot bearing but what I have done in the past as stupid as this seems: hammer white bread into the middle of the pilot bearing. 100% serious. Keep pounding bread in there and it will drive the pilot bearing out. Then clean that bread out
and install a new pilot bearing. Hope someone here gets a kick out of that