ReliableRed's 97, 2wd, 2.3, 5 speed, SAS Build


ReliableRed

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Here's my crack at a build thread, starting out with a little bit about me, I'm 19, coming from the vw scene which I am still in, bought my 1997 2.3 5 speed 2wd red single cab flareside ranger because I needed a daily to commute to my auto technical college being that my vw was a little too modified to reliably drive 110 miles 3 days out the week. Besides going to a auto tech school I also work as a detailer at ford dealership, my work space is next to the diesel tech so he's the one that actually got me into a ranger. I bought this truck in august 2018 with 228k on the odometer and now at now at 237k. I daily this every day with no issues, even drove it 800 miles one weekend to Atlanta and back. There was only a couple things I've had to fix or do preventive maintenance on. Even treated it to a few modifications.

Parts of now before the sas swap:
Rough country level springs
pro comp es9000 shocks
moog camber adjustment
moog sway bar endlinks and bushings
new rockauto headlights
junkyard hitch
facebook market place toolbox
15x8 -19 trailmaster steelies
30x9.5 bfg ko2's
ranger 8.8 4.10 rear end swap
solid rear diff cover
fabtech front desert guard
2x pro comp spot lamps
coolant flush with walmart 50/50
trans changed with ford mercon iv atf
rear end fluid changed with vavoline 75-140
oil changed with mobil 1 5w-20, motorcraft FL-1A
fram air filter:dunno:
cruise control buttons
walmart 20 dollar dual headunit with the walmart kit, put new rear scosche because they were cut out
acdelco front pads
f150 shift knob

Sas swap plans
onto the sas swap plans, I have a high pinion xj dana 30 with a 3.55, I plan on putting in 4.10 to match my rear end for now. Found 4x4horses early Bronco 3.5 lift coil springs on facebook, bought a rough country long arm kit from work. I have divorced transfer case dana 24 from a early f250. Got some f150/bronco spring retainers from the junkyard. Ballistic fabrication long arm frame mounts. To cut costs I'm rebuilding the xj brakes by leaving them in and alot of the other rusty parts in vinegar, painting them, and rebuilding them with a piston kit. Trying to do this low budget as possible, using my work discount with rough country so I will be using them as much as I can cause it will be the lowest price I can get these items, also plenty of trips to the junk yard and craigslist/facebook market place finds. Still debating running 33's or 35's but I'll have to see when everything is together. I am no fabricator but the diesel tech at work as done a couple sas swaps on rangers and plently of bigger trucks I've seen in person. Still trying to do as much bolt on parts as I can so I will be doing skyjacker lift leaf springs, most likely will keep my stock buckets and modify them, adding truss to the dana 30 knowing that they are weak when beat on, using bolt on 1 ton steering, rebuilding the axle with all spicer parts, debating a fuel cell to have extra space to work with. I have many plans and taking this little by little. Any info from experienced guys would be much appreciated! I will try to update this thread when I make progress.

Ranger before sas swap by Cole Hannah, on Flickr

Dana 30, long arms, springs by Cole Hannah, on Flickr

Dana 30, long arms, springs by Cole Hannah, on Flickr

Dana 24 by Cole Hannah, on Flickr

Dana 24 by Cole Hannah, on Flickr

Long arm mounts by Cole Hannah, on Flickr
 


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PetroleumJunkie412

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Son, welcome to the addiction.

I was a Dodge guy.

Was.

Now, Donald Trump is president, Bruce Jenner is a woman, and I have a blue oval in the driveway, flanked by hemis.

When you start researching fluid cooled brushless r/c boat motors and Nissan turbochargers, and looking at your mill wondering if it could all work on a speed density eec-iv, just check into rehab. You need it.

But damnit, it feels good.

Sent from my H8314 using Tapatalk
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Welcome to TRS.
There are a lot of knowledgeable members on here that will be sure to help.
Good luck.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Looks like a good start.

I did a little checking on the t-case because it looks intriguing, pretty neat. I have a 205 in mine and it fit between the frame rails perfect, I suspect yours will fit similar since looks like it is similar in shape and size.
 

BlackBII

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This will be a good build to watch! Can't wait for updates
 

Jim Oaks

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Did you get a 1995+ Dana 30?
 

ReliableRed

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Yes it is a hp d30 from a 1999 xj, and I hear the dana 24 is close in size to the np205, Thanks for the welcome!:icon_hornsup:
 

ReliableRed

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Dissembled the xj brake calipers and left them in a bucket of white vinegar for 2 weeks. When I emptied the bucket I hit everything with a wire brush and towel to clean it up for paint. My piston rebuild kit came from eBay, surprised to see the pistons had a Chrysler badge but I guess OEM parts are cheap for older american cars. Hitting the calipers with some high temp silver paint, that's all the time I had today :( also a lot of old hardware I'll be using in the build I put in the vinegar bucket so I hit that with some black paint also.

D30 brake rebuild by Cole Hannah, on Flickr
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Who did you get the rebuild kit from? I want to check the price. My local parts store doesn't stock them anymore and the price is so close to rebuilt it makes no sense for my time.
 

ReliableRed

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alwaysFlOoReD

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ReliableRed

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Fuel sender question

Sorta confused on what sending unit I should use on my fuel cell, I thought I read to use 10-70 ohms but I read some used 10-180? Its a 1997 2.3 single cab if that matters, I know they had two different stock tanks. My plan was to use a rci 2191a 19 gallon fuel cell, 11 inch fuel sender and a inline walbro 255 or airtec e3000 fuel pump. (doing a in bed fuel cell because of the transfer case fitment)
 

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Look up replacement sending units for your stock tank on RockAuto, then click on the details button next to the part. When I did that last, many of them listed the ohm level.

You'll probably get it close, but it will still be a little off on the fuel gauge.

My last two Ranger sending units I replaced, one on a 2001, and one on an 87, both ended up being off a little, and they were direct replacement units.. It seems manufacturers have a hard time getting it right.



GB :)
 

ReliableRed

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Look up replacement sending units for your stock tank on RockAuto, then click on the details button next to the part. When I did that last, many of them listed the ohm level.

You'll probably get it close, but it will still be a little off on the fuel gauge.

My last two Ranger sending units I replaced, one on a 2001, and one on an 87, both ended up being off a little, and they were direct replacement units.. It seems manufacturers have a hard time getting it right.



GB :)

Thank you! Found my answer, 10-165:icon_thumby:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=275655&cc=1138148
 

ReliableRed

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Got some parts in the mail, Ranger drop pitman arm, 4.10 gear for the front axle, open carrier for for the bigger gear, master gear install kit, D30 control arm bushings, jeep steering damper. The jeep damper I got off the Rough country scratch and dent ebay page for 20 bucks! eBay description said it had a couple nicks but don't see any reason to return. I wondering what style axle seals I should do? Seems to be 2 different styles? I believe all I need is axle seals and a locker or open diff gears to finish the axle rebuild, besides u joints, ball joints and hubs. Also following up on the fuel cell I read a nice thread of a guy doing a 89 bronco 2 tank and a 2.9 fuel pump that might be the direction I will go with fuel tank relocation. If anyone has some input on that I'm all ears!

Front gear and pitman arm by Cole Hannah, on Flickr

Steering Stablizer by Cole Hannah, on Flickr

D30 Bushings by Cole Hannah, on Flickr
 


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