Ranger light duty towing

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

He is looking to 4 link with air bags for better ride quality more than anything as far as I can tell.

For a street truck looking to haul I wouldn't go with any sort of rod end at all. I would just go with a simple poly bushing at each end of your links. Simple and strong.

 

[DoctorPhate]

Hella stiff is what I'm trying to avoid. Fibromyalgia remember.

I'm considering using stock leafs but with air bags as you mentioned and hopefully that with good quality shocks will make the difference.

 

[Captain Ledd]

In that case I'd just use a traditional rubber bushing, even poly can be a little stiff. Least amount of shock transfer to the frame, that's why OEM's use it.

You can get fiberglass leaf springs for these, and are pretty soft in terms of ride quality. A set of traction bars (for spring wrap), and either a panhard (I've also heard it called a trac-bar when used in the rear) or watts linkage (for extra stability when towing) and you should be in business. Use helper airbags for the heavier loads.

 

[DoctorPhate]

Do you have a link to a company who offers these leaf springs? I'd be interested in seeing them.

I highly doubt I'll really need traction bars since it'll just be towing unless you mean because these leafs tend to wrap a lot easier.

As for the track bar we'll see how the suspension works and if i need it I'll add it in but I highly doubt I'll need it since leafs track the axle on their own thats why track bars are traditionally not needed or even installed. All it ever does is work against the leafs.

 

[Tractorman]

Well, seems like a lot work for something that that I would pull with my 02 Ranger with my "weak" auto.

300 pounds isn't enough tongue weight. Will get a lot of sway that way.

 

[DoctorPhate]

What would you suggest? 300lbs is without the weight distributing. With I'm not sure.

And its a lot of work because my 97 is a 2.3L and therefore cant tow it. no point in paying insurance on yet another vehicle in the driveway.

 

[Captain Ledd]

Do you have a link to a company who offers these leaf springs? I'd be interested in seeing them.

I highly doubt I'll really need traction bars since it'll just be towing unless you mean because these leafs tend to wrap a lot easier.

As for the track bar we'll see how the suspension works and if i need it I'll add it in but I highly doubt I'll need it since leafs track the axle on their own thats why track bars are traditionally not needed or even installed. All it ever does is work against the leafs.

They're factory on some Rangers, more usually found on Explorers. They are generally figured to wander more, as it is a weaker spring and yes, more prone to wrap. However, it will give a smoother ride.

But as for towing, you want to get rid of at least some of that smoothness (and wandering) and keep the rear axle planted firmly where it's at.

The trac/panhard bar or Watts linkage will eliminate nearly all side to side motion. Very nice for towing. Heavier loads do push these things around. Although, I've never ran the fiberglass leafs, but generally people come along complaining of their "squishyness" and want swap in a traditional steel pack. Also hence the airbag recommendation, to help with a trailer.

Tongue weight is sometimes figured as a percentage of the trailer weight. I've heard 8-10% But there's really much more to it.

The farther the trailers wheels are from the pivot point (hitch) the less sway you'll have. But you can't make it too far because then you have to load the trailer weird, and tongue weights go up reallly fast.

Try to have the center of mass/gravity/etc just a few feet in front of the trailer axles. This will also help it track straighter. And will also add necessary tongue weight.

Since you might be getting close to 7,000 lbs (mud, water, snow, gear, etc) 500-600 tongue weight might not be a bad goal to shoot for, especially with a weight distributing hitch.

Try to get a trailer that will fit the cherokee well since that will be the primary load. And it's not like axles can't be relocated on a trailer. Maybe try planning on loading it backwards, get the COG and axles just a little bit farther back.

Trailer tires do have stiffer sidewalls, and likely will track better. Some say LT tires are fine, I can't actually say yet. I've just replaced my trailer tires with XL load rated 235/75R15's (2,200 lbs per tire, 3,500 lb axles), but I have not towed anything substantial, yet. Supposedly they'll sway more, but again, there's a lot of factors.

And who says 4 bangers can't tow?

(The red trailer is what I just replaced the tires on)
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1116003&postcount=220

 

[Tractorman]

The longer the trailer, the more chance for sway, as it will have much more leverage on the truck.

You'll want to have tongue weigh in the 10% range or so. Problem with a Ranger and high amounts of tongue weight is that it drastically reduces the front tire weight and overall balance. A WD will keep the front end down and take some of the load off the rear axle, which doesn't have a very high payload capacity. Look into the Equilizer brand. Had built in sway control that works very well.

If you're going through all this work for it, might as well go with a gooseneck/fifth wheel setup. Pulls like dream, rides way better.

If I were you I would:

8.8 31 spline from an Explorer
Heaviest springs that came on a Ranger
Leave the front end alone
Good WD hitch
Good brake controller (BrakeMax seems like a good one, email them, they will help you get the correct fittings for your Ranger. It works in proportion to pedal pressure, like the built in Ford brake controller on the newer trucks. Prodigy is another good one.)
More power

Of course, with all this work you still won't be legal road wise.

 

[DoctorPhate]

The longer the trailer, the more chance for sway, as it will have much more leverage on the truck.

You'll want to have tongue weigh in the 10% range or so. Problem with a Ranger and high amounts of tongue weight is that it drastically reduces the front tire weight and overall balance. A WD will keep the front end down and take some of the load off the rear axle, which doesn't have a very high payload capacity. Look into the Equilizer brand. Had built in sway control that works very well.
Tongue weight I'm not sure about yet, but from looking at figures it'll probably be around there depending on how i move around the axles. And I already stated an 8.8 will be replacing the craptastic 7.5"
If you're going through all this work for it, might as well go with a gooseneck/fifth wheel setup. Pulls like dream, rides way better.

Goosenecks are over the top for this and un needed. Single vehicle goosenecks are simply pointless in reality.

If I were you I would:

8.8 31 spline from an Explorer Check
Heaviest springs that came on a Ranger trying to figure this out
Leave the front end alone still deciding on what to do here
Good WD hitch check
Good brake controller Check
More power V8 covers this

Of course, with all this work you still won't be legal road wise.

You can very easily walk down to the MTO and have an inspection done and they revise the GVWR for the new setup. Many people do this.

They're factory on some Rangers, more usually found on Explorers. They are generally figured to wander more, as it is a weaker spring and yes, more prone to wrap. However, it will give a smoother ride.

But as for towing, you want to get rid of at least some of that smoothness (and wandering) and keep the rear axle planted firmly where it's at.

The trac/panhard bar or Watts linkage will eliminate nearly all side to side motion. Very nice for towing. Heavier loads do push these things around. Although, I've never ran the fiberglass leafs, but generally people come along complaining of their "squishyness" and want swap in a traditional steel pack. Also hence the airbag recommendation, to help with a trailer.
I see your point here, I'll research my options.

Tongue weight is sometimes figured as a percentage of the trailer weight. I've heard 8-10% But there's really much more to it.
Yeah my comment was more towards I dont have a trailer yet to figure it out so I havent put a whole ton of thought into it.

The farther the trailers wheels are from the pivot point (hitch) the less sway you'll have. But you can't make it too far because then you have to load the trailer weird, and tongue weights go up reallly fast.

Try to have the center of mass/gravity/etc just a few feet in front of the trailer axles. This will also help it track straighter. And will also add necessary tongue weight.

Since you might be getting close to 7,000 lbs (mud, water, snow, gear, etc) 500-600 tongue weight might not be a bad goal to shoot for, especially with a weight distributing hitch.
My 6200lbs figure was based on additional mud, water, fuel etc. Although gear will be kept in the bed.

Try to get a trailer that will fit the cherokee well since that will be the primary load. And it's not like axles can't be relocated on a trailer. Maybe try planning on loading it backwards, get the COG and axles just a little bit farther back.
I have thought about switching it around backwards for this reason.

Trailer tires do have stiffer sidewalls, and likely will track better. Some say LT tires are fine, I can't actually say yet. I've just replaced my trailer tires with XL load rated 235/75R15's (2,200 lbs per tire, 3,500 lb axles), but I have not towed anything substantial, yet. Supposedly they'll sway more, but again, there's a lot of factors.

And who says 4 bangers can't tow?
I'm trying to keep it legal, nobody will give a 4cyl the go ahead to tow my XJ lol.

(The red trailer is what I just replaced the tires on)
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1116003&postcount=220

 

[Tractorman]

Gooseneck isn't overkill. You're taking a regular cab, short bed Ranger, and taking it well beyond what an extended cab truck is rated for. A gooseneck drives way better than a bumper pull will. It cuts the sway way down.

Show me a link where you can just go and revise your GVWR. Which still doesn't help you with your GCVWR. The state will sell you any plate, but insurance, state police, ect will go by the stickers on the truck, unless professionally approved, IE limo makers.

 

[DoctorPhate]

Did you read my post at all?

Extended cab, flare side. Reinforced frame and half ton everything basically.

And as you notice I'm from Canada so there are no state police.

And you can go down to the MTO and schedule an appointment for an inspection. They go over everything from brakes to frame and approve a towing capacity. They then issue new stickers and a special plate. It then needs to be inspected every 2 years to maintain that rating.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Gooseneck trailers do pull much nicer than a bumper pull, really cuts down on the # of people that want to borrow them too. They don't have the inchworm effect that a bumper pull trailer does which would help your comfort level.

The problem is, they are kinda hard to come by in a shorter length that doesn't weigh a million pounds. You would probably have to build it yourself or have one custom built.

I would LOVE to have a 18' gooseneck tandam axle car trailer... only hauling a pickup/SUV or a single 6k tractor they would be great.

Explorer springs are heavier than anything that came on a Ranger and are a bolt on swap, dunno if they would be enough though.

I never really understood the big deal on the weight rating being so hard and fast down here. My F-150 has a fairly low rating just because some shortsighted dimwit ordered it with tiny (compared to the gaping wheel wells) P rated tires and high gearing to make up for the donut tires. The trucks that got "decent" gearing also got bigger tires so the final ratio comes out the same. Same brakes, axles, frame and steering as any other F-150 up to the 7700 rated 7 lug trucks. I don't think it is close to lacking in springs either. I don't get why I can't just get heavier rated tires (which I actually have already) and up the rating.

 

[DoctorPhate]

The goosenecks are quite a bit heavier and thats my main concern. and single car goosenecks are just completely ridiculous. When I buy a bigger truck I'll just be buying a two car length gooseneck.

I have been considering selling this truck as much as it pains me. If i dont have a use for the damn thing theres not much point in me keeping it around.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

The goosenecks are quite a bit heavier and thats my main concern. and single car goosenecks are just completely ridiculous. When I buy a bigger truck I'll just be buying a two car length gooseneck.

Not as rediculous as a bigger trailer than a person needs.

They pull much nicer than a bumper pull, there is nothing wrong with wanting to combine the manuverability and loadability of a smaller trailer with the pulling advantages of a gooseneck.

We had to interweave the front ends on two narrow front tractors to get them to fit on dad's 26' triple axle gooseneck (+4' beavertail with flip up ramps), not sure how long it would have to be to fit two free and clear on there. A guy wanting to borrow it chickened out after it forced his F-150 tailpipe to the ground empty.

 

[DoctorPhate]

Yeah I'd be skipping the F150 and going to F250/350 either V10 if older than 2007 which it most likely will, but 2006+ I'd probably take the 6L

I know what you mean but I feel like a Gooseneck will draw far more attention to my little ranger towing a jeep.