Rangebe...version 2.0

[-Nathan-]

Went for a ride in my buddies RZR this weekend, and decided it was best that I have grab handles for my passenger, similar to what was in the RZR.

Tore dash out, cut hole, welded in DOM tube.

Reinstalled dash, made DOM inner sleeve, and drilled for snap pin.

And welded up some handles. Will get some dirtbike grips or something to go over the ends. Bars can easily be removed by pulling the pin, and handles out.

Should be getting my rear shocks/bumps soon. Will have more to post.

 

[Stangman92]

Awesome work! I have a question about how you did your 5.0/m5od-r2/1356 swap. Did you reuse the original clutch slave and master cylinders from the original 2.3 engine and m5od-r1? Or upgrade it to something like an f150 master and slave assembly? Id really like full specs on your entire clutch setup. I appreciate your response, and keep up the nice work!

 

[bobbywalter]

hows the ackerman angle? i had trade offs with s.a.i. that caused some push on wet pavement but was manageable using captain cave pig linkage with limited dial in capacity. but it was needed to run the supersoft springs for max travel in slow wheeling stuff.

 

[bobbywalter]

oh yeah, the cage setup selection/execution inside and dash fit-up is outstanding imo as well.

your patience is much greater then mine for damn sure!!

 

[PlumCrazy]

You need a "Remove before flight" ribbon on a plug for when the passenger grab handle isn't in use.lol

Sent from XT907 using Crapatalk

 

[merch]

with that much droop does the passenger side axle have any bind in it from the diff side? BTW this is a great build i like the ttb set up,i just thought i was doin something with d44 knuckels on my d35 but sir have raised the bar !

 

[-Nathan-]

I have clearenced the middle u joint in order to prevent bind, but yes that is the limiting factor for pass side droop. Where it is is fine. I will strap it a bit above for safety tolerance.

I do have a muffler plug with that slogan, will try and take a pic

Just got a bunch more parts: 2.5" King 18" travel remote reservoirs for the rear shocks, and 2.0" King hydro bump stops for the front.

 

[-Nathan-]

Been tinkering again. Started mounting bump stops.

King bump can cleaned up. Made a slug out of 2" DOM to use while welding in order to prevent the can from warping. The slug is 10 thou over the actual bump, so if it slides in/out after welding, I shouldnt have an issue.

Started making brackets. I ended up doubling up the sides with plate, so it is 0.250 thick.

Laying dimes with the can in place.

And tacked in place. Also made a 0.250 thick bump pad on the arm, youll see it if you look close.

Will burn it in tonight, with the bump removed of course. Also need to play with my tie rods more, even though the current geometry works, Id like to try and make the driver side straight with no bends.

I'm also debating whether to add hydro assist now, or wait until later. Opinions??

 

[RangerSVT]

You're doing the fabwork now, might as well do it now rather than later. Besides, whens the last time you heard some say, "I wish I didn't do hydro assist" ?

SVT

 

[wizkid00104]

I agree. And this is going to be a fairly heavy rig running 37s at high speeds for off-road. I'd say go for it now.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[PlumCrazy]

I would recommend it. Id stick with a smaller cylinder that is more responsive. My 3/4" rod 1.5" bore cyl seems perfect for added assist without sacrificing speed. Just my opinion.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Cylinders/Double-Acting-Hydraulic-Cylinders/1-5X4X-75-DA-HYD-CYL-9-4410-04.axd

 

[PlumCrazy]

Added link...but the downside to this cylinder is the eyes..they are not really serviceable. If/when mine get sloppy I'' weld larger eyes on with replaceable brass bushings. I did add grease zerks and I remove my cyl when I am not wheeling so it saves the wear/tear.

 

[-Nathan-]

If I do add hydro assist, Ill be using PSC components. So you think a 1.5" bore ram would better for speed?

 

[PlumCrazy]

I am running a PSC Saginaw based pump with the pressure at 1150ish and bumped my return line to 1/2". It will move as fast as I can turn the wheel as long as the engine RPM is 1200+

Sent from XT907 using Crapatalk

 

[RangerSVT]

I remember reading that the 1.5" bore was better suited and matched the rangers box better than the 2". I don't remember where I read that though...

SVT