R2 slave to '87 master cylinder


Bird76Mojo

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Those clearance issues are why I recommend the Hedman 88400 headers to everyone. Zero problems using them.. Loads of clearance everywhere.

Weird about the hard pedal. My stock 87 master pushes my Tilton 6000 series slave cylinder just like the stock setup. Only I had to add a pedal stop, which was very easy.
 


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Daniel Black

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Those clearance issues are why I recommend the Hedman 88400 headers to everyone. Zero problems using them.. Loads of clearance everywhere.

Weird about the hard pedal. My stock 87 master pushes my Tilton 6000 series slave cylinder just like the stock setup. Only I had to add a pedal stop, which was very easy.
I have plenty of clearance on the Tri-Ys. It's the way the slave has to twist out of the F150 bellhousing bracket, it hits the frame rail before it can come out. Does your slave cylinder still use the pins to hold the line in? I have an '87 master and an '83 slave which is the same part # as an F150 slave and an '83 clutch hose all hooked to an '85 F150 bellhousing.
 

Bird76Mojo

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Not sure what you mean about the slave cylinder having pins holding a line in?


thumbnail (48).jpg



The clutch master cylinder uses a small roll pin to hold the AN hose adapter. Adapter shown here:

thumbnail (50).jpg
 

Shran

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Bird, you have a different slave cylinder than either of us do... Daniel is using the factory plastic hose.

I was worried about the slave cylinder vs master cylinder arrangement you have there and now even more so. I did some digging on RockAuto and found the following -

1986 F150 has a 7/8" bore master cylinder and a 1" bore slave
1983 F150 has the same as above
1983 Ranger has a 3/4" bore master and a 7/8" bore slave

None of the parts I saw in my cursory glance were shared between the F150 and Ranger.

I'm just wondering if perhaps the 1" bore slave might suit you better. My speedway slave cylinder has a 7/8" bore and it's still hard to push but it's way better than the Land Cruiser slave cylinder I had before.

I think our hydraulics were designed for a 9" clutch instead of a 10" or 11" clutch thus making it harder to compress the springs.
 

Bird76Mojo

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I think our hydraulics were designed for a 9" clutch instead of a 10" or 11" clutch thus making it harder to compress the springs.
That should still be easy to correct by sizing the bores and strokes correctly..
 

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That's correct, the only issue is finding easily adaptable parts. The master cylinder is the real hard part to deal with.
 

Ramcharger90

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The trans is in now. With the back of the motor up where it should be I didn't need any extra clearance for the bellhousing or slave cylinder. I did notice the slave can't be removed from its bracket now so that could be a problem down the road. The slave is very close 1/4" to a tube on the tri-y headers and it's plastic so that's a problem. I have an 11" clutch set and it's pretty hard to mash the pedal down. It even flexes the master cylinder and firewall. It's much harder to mash than my older Fords with linkage style clutches.
It needs bled
 

Daniel Black

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It's bled pretty good it feels like. I'm worried about it breaking the firewall. The wall and master move when I push the clutch in. If an '86 shows a bigger slave I might try that. I did all my searching for an '85 with a 302 since that's what the bell came from. It was those PITA roll pins I was talking about.
 

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I would be worried about that too. When I had the Land Cruiser slave in mine, I actually broke the master cylinder itself off the firewall... the mounting tabs sheared off.
 

Daniel Black

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I looked up the specs for a '90 Ranger master and it shows .88 bore compared to my '87s .75 bore. They look similar in pictures but are they interchangeable? Would a bigger bore at the master make the pedal easier to push or harder? My flywheel is only drilled with one bolt pattern so I had to use an 11" clutch set.
 

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You're pushing more volume, I think that would make it harder.
It would equate to less pedal movement to push the clutch in, so more effort.
This is just a guess.
 

Daniel Black

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You're pushing more volume, I think that would make it harder.
It would equate to less pedal movement to push the clutch in, so more effort.
This is just a guess.
Yeah, I have no idea how hydraulics work. I prefer linkage style clutch systems. I looked it up online and it's just piles of math equations to figure out bore size.
 

Bird76Mojo

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You're pushing more volume, I think that would make it harder.
It would equate to less pedal movement to push the clutch in, so more effort.
This is just a guess.
Yes, with the larger bore he'd be pushing more fluid, reducing the necessary pedal travel for full clutch disengagement. Which could be bad for aftermarket slave cylinders, possibly over-extending them in certain cases, depending on their design.

The pivot point where your external slave attaches to the clutch release pivot arm will make a big difference in leverage, as well as pedal pressure. A helper spring could possibly be added to assist the slave, but you'd have to be careful selecting the strength of that spring to make sure it wasn't fighting your pressure plate too much, weakening it's push against the clutch disc.
 

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My clutch isn't terrible but it engages about 2 inchs from the floor. I dont remember what tran you are using but maybe a 7/8 bore from a 90 ranger will work.
 

Ramcharger90

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I looked up the specs for a '90 Ranger master and it shows .88 bore compared to my '87s .75 bore. They look similar in pictures but are they interchangeable? Would a bigger bore at the master make the pedal easier to push or harder? My flywheel is only drilled with one bolt pattern so I had to use an 11" clutch set.
I used a 90 ranger 7/8 bore master, 90 f150 slave which has the same part number as a ranger for luk on rock auto. And a 11 inch luk clutch from a f150 and 90 f150 flywheel. The way I bled it was with my friends hand pump from snap on.
 


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