• Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and Register for our forum. Even if you don't want to post, you can still 'Like' and react to posts.

R.I.P. to my 302 - What should I do now?


dagoof

New Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
74
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
rpm's at 70 mph?

what gears now, i assumed 410 due to the previous comment about rpms.


355 gears and 31's arent too bad, so the pulley situation possibly overdrive and cavitating the pump or some crazy shit like that.

just last week i worked on a car that had the wrong pump, 3 locked up lifters etc that had previous known cooling issues...it was in a 1/4 mile truck so the problems werent too severe till it was taken for a cruise in its current new home.
I've still got the stock 373's in it. They seem to be both too high and too low at the same time. The tires don't break loose as easy as they should with as much power as I have (had), but I'm also running at about 3,100 RPM when I'm going down the freeway at 75.

I suspect that you might be right about the cavitating pump or something similar. Like I said earlier, I've already replaced the head gaskets once. The whole cooling system has been goofy on this thing since day one. It's got a big Garrett radiator, so it mostly runs very cold, but once in a while it seems to burp into the cooling system and into the overflow tank. Also, when I go on long trips it seems to build up heat and starts getting hotter and hotter.

I thought that we had it fixed after doing the head gaskets, putting in a high flow water pump, a high flow thermostat, and dual electric fans on the radiator. The cooling system seemed to be working perfectly until it started a little bit of burping again and then took a complete crap on me Saturday.

This truck/engine has been a little bit possessed for a long time now, but that shouldn't matter any more, cuz if I decide to keep working on it, I'm probably going to start over from scratch when I build the engine. There are just too many unknowns when dealing with an engine that was built by someone else.
 


RangerSVT

Oct 09 OTOTM
Article Contributor
V8 Engine Swap
OTOTM Winner
Solid Axle Swap
RBV's on Boost
ASE Certified Tech
TRS Banner 2010-2011
TRS Banner 2012-2015
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
7,883
Reaction score
53
Points
48
Location
TRS since 2002 - NW KY
Vehicle Year
19962002
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
GT-40 5.0L EFI W/AC
Transmission
Automatic
There are just too many unknowns when dealing with an engine that was built by someone else.
Thats why I said start with a E/F-series 94-97...if you gonna start new, start new, including the block. These are roller blocks and have good flowing heads. A very good starting point :icon_thumby:
SVT
 

dagoof

New Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
74
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
Thanks for all the input guys.

I'm still weighing what I'm going to do with this thing. I've got a lot of work into it, but I'm just thinking that to make it into the hot-rod that I want, I'll need a new engine, new transmission, new suspension, and new gears.

If I'm replacing everything anyways, I'm just not sure that I'm that set on this particular Ranger. I could do all of that to any vehicle that I want to.
 

r1hatman

New Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
1,915
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
Knoxville, TN
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8
Transmission
Automatic
ANY vehicle that deals with two tracks should have the intake at least as high as the lights.

i have seen way too many deer hunting engine destructions driving on the "road" just having to cross this rutty puddle.

brand new trucks:icon_surprised:
What's that got to do with a snorkel? Just because you prefer something, does not make it a bad decision for somebody else. EFI is not all it is cracked up to be. Vehicles ran fine for many years before without them! And unless you have modified the motor mounts, most engine carbs are going to be above the headlights!
 
Last edited:

feellnfroggy

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
4,454
Reaction score
28
Points
48
Age
43
Location
Knoxville, TN
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Manual
OP it sounds like when you did the headgaskets last year, that 'maybe something was missed such as possible warping if you used aluminum heads, or cracks, or possibly missing a few torque specs on the head bolts. Maybe torquing in the wrong order. Maybe not but possible. I would pull the heads, have them magnafluxed. check the rad for leaks, and lf possible look at your gaskets for damage to see if you can find the initial problem. If not then just tear it down and do it again, check twice fix once.
another classic example of intended use verse build plans necessity. Explain this please? He v8 swapped a ranger like a hundred others did. Shit breaks all the time.


the c4 is great for certain situations, i learned like you 15 years ago they suck for long distance commuting 4x4 rangers, and in an ext cab with just gt40 power levels bust like a4lds wheelin.Dont understand this either, Ford ran these trannys in almost all the 1/4 ton trucks for many years. It obviously cant be that bad. A c-5 is pretty much a c-4 with overdrive. And gt-40 power levels? Are you talking about the highpower sports car for made or the horsepower of a gt40 intake equipped explorer?

aod will need work no matter, but for basic power just a be controls valve body and fresh converter would be okAny used transmission needs work, but they will all be just as strong as you build them.

as to your engine, what was its original application? did you rebuild it?

what components, and machine work were performed?good question

c4 and carb on a 4x4 are the first indications of bad combination in my experience, you can do it and get away with it depending on how ya use it, but it comes at great sacrifice to performance if you are not afraid to damage sheet metal in your 4x4 adventures.C-4 and carb...really? Its all in the gearing and whether or not it a hp or torque built motor whether or not they work together good. And what does the engine transmission combo have to do with sheet metal? They affect his ability to not drive into trees?

if you are running 2wd because of the headers get different headers, cause your gonna need a huge lift to really clear well if the shaft wont fit at all now.

you made some bad decisions which had real deffered costs which have now come due.<---Why would you say this?
what was its original application? did you rebuild it?
Did you ask this or not, so you dont know if he made the decisions or not. he might have been working with what he had.


best bet is find a decent used drop in and get an 8.8 with 308 gears in it, or find a 327 gear setup from a later ranger/ sploder. these are around and cheap. probably get a d35 piglet and rear end in the detroit area with 327 for under 200. same for a running engine.This is not a bad suggestion by itself, it may be cheaper this way. I dont know that i would go as low as 3.08 but maybe 3.27 or 3.55's


what an engine looks like on the outside means nothing to me. but in my eyes you have the wrong look for a low 4x4 application, should be efi that is snorkel equipped with eliminated dizzy or pos pressure /booted dizzy, though if you dont wheel that dont matter at all. Looks dont matter to you but it looks wrong? Cause it has some bling? That tell you his compression and cam specs? Im an efi guy myself, but some people prefer carb, they are just as capable.

....you have a street rod setup in my eyes. and of course is perfectly fine for normal use-street or dirtroading.Again i dont get this, why does it "look" like a street rod setup? It looks like a nicely done v8 swap into a 4x4 ranger that is washed regular and taken care of. How about addressing the issues. He overheated and needs some possible courses of action. Ask for some more specs on his setup before you just tear him apart. Maybe Im just cranky today, but I dont normally see you respond this way. This just sounded mean.
:annoyed:
 

dagoof

New Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
74
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
OP it sounds like when you did the headgaskets last year, that 'maybe something was missed such as possible warping if you used aluminum heads, or cracks, or possibly missing a few torque specs on the head bolts. Maybe torquing in the wrong order. Maybe not but possible. I would pull the heads, have them magnafluxed. check the rad for leaks, and lf possible look at your gaskets for damage to see if you can find the initial problem. If not then just tear it down and do it again, check twice fix once.

:annoyed:
I would think the same thing, except it was having problems before we did the head gaskets.

This engine has always been somewhat possessed. The engine seems to get hot even though the coolant is staying cold. (I've got a big Garrett radiator, a high flow water pump, and dual electric fans.) This engine has also burped air into the radiator at random times, and we haven't been able to understand why. We thought that it must have been a bad head gasket, and that is the reason that we did the head gaskets last year. I took the heads off, had them planed and magnafluxed, and we were very careful when putting it back together. The block was also planed when the engine was originally build 6 years ago. After putting everything back together, we thought we had it fixed untill it started burping again and finally went capoot on me last Saturday.

I'm actually starting to think that I might have had a hairline crack or something in the block and maybe that was my problem all along and now it has finally let loose.

I'll find out for sure if/when I tear it down to do an otopsy.

Either way, if I decide to keep working on this project, it's going to be a whole new engine from the ground up. This engine was supposedly built well, and it has been very powerful, but it's just had too many gremlins for me to trust it any longer.
 
Last edited:

dagoof

New Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
74
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
if you are running 2wd because of the headers get different headers, cause your gonna need a huge lift to really clear well if the shaft wont fit at all now.
I'm running James Duff 4X4 V8 headers, the drivers side colector interferes with the front drive shaft by about an inch.

I think it is because I used my own motor mounts instead of the ones from James Duff. It won't be an issue any more once I get a 4" or 6" suspension lift under there.
 

bobbywalter

TRS Technical Staff
TRS Event Staff
V8 Engine Swap
TRS Technical Advisor
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Ugly Truck of Month
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
23,470
Reaction score
4,668
Points
113
Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
1st...i did not mean to be mean. and i seriously appreciate the sensible pointing out of my dickheadedness(new word?), it took some time and i under stand most of it. though some things we will have to agree to disagree.

also i am not the greatest communicator, and i am generally looking at several topics at a time, and several forums...dirtbike to chevy, and sitting near the phone waiting and making calls while i am doing this, as i am building a trans, looking for honda 4 wheeler parts etc etc....this is not an excuse, but just so ya know where i am comming from. and this is on my days off.





Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbywalter
another classic example of intended use verse build plans necessity. Explain this please? He v8 swapped a ranger like a hundred others did. Shit breaks all the time.

mismatch of gears, tranny, and no 4x4 realities....how long has this thing been 2wd??? listen, i myself am guilty of this, and why i attempt to help others. its quite possible the gearing is the issue....not likely in itself but a main player....my very very first thought was inner chamber crack. i have fought that on a few builds.


the c4 is great for certain situations, i learned like you 15 years ago they suck for long distance commuting 4x4 rangers, and in an ext cab with just gt40 power levels bust like a4lds wheelin.Dont understand this either, Ford ran these trannys in almost all the 1/4 ton trucks for many years. It obviously cant be that bad. A c-5 is pretty much a c-4 with overdrive. And gt-40 power levels? Are you talking about the highpower sports car for made or the horsepower of a gt40 intake equipped explorer?

ford didnt put em in 1/2 ton 4x4's.(of course the oem is moot in these conversations) the eb was nutless in any regards to power oem...and i mean nutless. 100% of the people i know that wheel/drive daily 300 hp engines with a c4 and 35 in or more tires have to build the fawk out of it..and i have been stuck helping or doing that many times for the vast majority to eventually switch to manual for wheelin. those that keep it and drive thier rigs need double underdrive. i found my ext cab ranger did not fit the needs of long haul commuter and weekend warrior. obviously the c4 can be made livible, but you have to carefully match the gearing and tire size for sensible economy, and engine rpm....i used to drive to tenn just to destroy my tranny..of course i wasnt hoping to destroy it...it just happened due to my ignorance and temp insanity. that was the 90's and i didnt give a fawk if i went home in a u haul:dunno:

aod will need work no matter, but for basic power just a be controls valve body and fresh converter would be okAny used transmission needs work, but they will all be just as strong as you build them.

strong as you build them and aod is pretty wide in range...like 3 grand. for 350 bux a guy can build a stout aod at home...400 or so with proper lip seal tools. BUT, it involves careful shopping at the junkyard.

as to your engine, what was its original application? did you rebuild it?

what components, and machine work were performed?good question

c4 and carb on a 4x4 are the first indications of bad combination in my experience, you can do it and get away with it depending on how ya use it, but it comes at great sacrifice to performance if you are not afraid to damage sheet metal in your 4x4 adventures.C-4 and carb...really? Its all in the gearing and whether or not it a hp or torque built motor whether or not they work together good. And what does the engine transmission combo have to do with sheet metal? They affect his ability to not drive into trees?

you really really need to read what i stated again.

off camber is generally where you get into sheet metal trouble. you being from tenn can get away with certain build bias, you dont have to drive 70+ for 13 hrs to get to a good wheelin spot. but. for example you and me build a 4x4 ranger ext cab. we get identical mustang cobra engines. you go 600 cfm and i go oem efi, we get to a spot that lays us on the side and involves complex power application. you know...like alot of the fun places in tellico or places i have been in monteagle area both vehicles will stall repeatedly no matter what...both vehicles are autos one will have some serious issues. i built both of these vehicles in 1995 and had them down there in 97 so i know the outcome... i was building truck avenger type carbs long before holley sold them, and learned the tricks from guys doing it since the 70's when i was cutting my teeth in the early 80's....generally and in my application they were marine based carbs with spring loaded floats and a few other mod....old ass trick, and they were doing that shit down there in all of appalachia that i have since wheeled too long before i ever seen tenn kentucky pa or west by gawd virginia. the 4bbl truck ran great in almost anything else except for certain applications. going to a 500 cfm carb will virtually make the engine work nearly as well as the efi off camber....but on the road i can now kick your ass. where before you were beating me by 2-3 tenths.:dunno: that is what it is.

if you are running 2wd because of the headers get different headers, cause your gonna need a huge lift to really clear well if the shaft wont fit at all now.

you made some bad decisions which had real deffered costs which have now come due.<---Why would you say this?

the gears tire and need for lift due to motormount selection...based on the time spent in the 2wd configuration he really missed out and potentially caused the issues he has now with the 3 speed and tire size dictated by current lift....this is really answered earlier up i guess....now you know why they call me babbles....you asked for it:D
Quote:
what was its original application? did you rebuild it?
Did you ask this or not, so you dont know if he made the decisions or not. he might have been working with what he had.

i am definitely one to work with whats laying around...but sometimes its prudent to do some trading or swapping to optimize...a little more knowledge can save allot of issues making you want to scrap the project later..

best bet is find a decent used drop in and get an 8.8 with 308 gears in it, or find a 327 gear setup from a later ranger/ sploder. these are around and cheap. probably get a d35 piglet and rear end in the detroit area with 327 for under 200. same for a running engine.This is not a bad suggestion by itself, it may be cheaper this way. I dont know that i would go as low as 3.08 but maybe 3.27 or 3.55's

since he run so long 2wd dropping tire size a bit and going 308 isnt so bad...though 327 would be ideal with 33's and a nice 351


what an engine looks like on the outside means nothing to me. but in my eyes you have the wrong look for a low 4x4 application, should be efi that is snorkel equipped with eliminated dizzy or pos pressure /booted dizzy, though if you dont wheel that dont matter at all. Looks dont matter to you but it looks wrong? Cause it has some bling? That tell you his compression and cam specs? Im an efi guy myself, but some people prefer carb, they are just as capable.

i certainly see the confusion i caused here. my tiny little brain has one picture and it does not describe it all. i hope i am not muddling things further.

"looks" in reference to bling being first priority on a wheeler is bad....this is what i meant on aesthetics

"wrong look" in this case was not meant to be purely aesthetic---but biased toward particular functions. its a generalization of apparent goals and priorities gleaned from the picture...and a guess.
if one really wants to spend that kind of time washing shit you cant get too, wear yourself out, but when your low you need to consider the air inlet as priority..if its a dirt roading streetrod then its a non issue...fawkers always clean anyway. in this case that is the case...

but if priorities change the engine compartment should look different then that for getting stupid off road.

if not....no matter what our opinions are...he will eventually need a new engine unless he is lucky that not changing the "look" of the ignition situation kills the engine before the water is gobbled down the intake at 6 grand trying to get across the mud puddle...:dunno: unless that does not happen anymore:dunno:.


....you have a street rod setup in my eyes. and of course is perfectly fine for normal use-street or dirtroading.Again i dont get this, why does it "look" like a street rod setup? It looks like a nicely done v8 swap into a 4x4 ranger that is washed regular and taken care of. How about addressing the issues. He overheated and needs some possible courses of action. Ask for some more specs on his setup before you just tear him apart. Maybe Im just cranky today, but I dont normally see you respond this way. This just sounded mean.



i sure as fawk thought i was concentration on the overheat issues previously....i just finishes a project that had issues and brought that up too:dunno: as a matter of fact the c4 and gearing is likely a big part of it and quite possibly the fawker just needed to be richened at cruise or something as 3100 isnt too high for the little bastards...

too many potentials even with limited info.

:annoyed:
 

bobbywalter

TRS Technical Staff
TRS Event Staff
V8 Engine Swap
TRS Technical Advisor
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Ugly Truck of Month
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
23,470
Reaction score
4,668
Points
113
Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
What's that got to do with a snorkel? Just because you prefer something, does not make it a bad decision for somebody else. EFI is not all it is cracked up to be. Vehicles ran fine for many years before without them! And unless you have modified the motor mounts, most engine carbs are going to be above the headlights!
now you....hell both of you from tenn i have a hard time believing this.


you need to read this a few times....snorkel does not have to be defined as some arb type thing sticking out the roof next to your exaust stack... :shok:


so you i am being a dick to.


Originally Posted by bobbywalter
ANY vehicle that deals with two tracks should have the intake at least as high as the lights.

i have seen way too many deer hunting engine destructions driving on the "road" just having to cross this rutty puddle.

brand new trucks


think about that for a fuggin minute....let it soak in.

and yes efi is a superior form of induction for the masses. not even debatable. not even ****ing close to debatable.


you were definitely looking intentionally mean in that. if you did not mean to come off as a dick then i am sorry.
 

bobbywalter

TRS Technical Staff
TRS Event Staff
V8 Engine Swap
TRS Technical Advisor
TRS Banner 2012-2015
TRS 20th Anniversary
Ugly Truck of Month
TRS Event Participant
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
23,470
Reaction score
4,668
Points
113
Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
oh.....gt 40 is 10 to 1 gt40(shaved a bit) with a e type cam 1.7 and 24-30 pounders big maf etc.

thats what i run when i had v8's in there...save for placeholder v8's when the original broke in half after 350 k plus road miles and weeks of idling running aircompressors for roof jobs over its service life. tuned its close to 330 crank corrected.
 

dagoof

New Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
74
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
1st...i did not mean to be mean. and i seriously appreciate the sensible pointing out of my dickheadedness(new word?), it took some time and i under stand most of it. though some things we will have to agree to disagree.

also i am not the greatest communicator, and i am generally looking at several topics at a time, and several forums...dirtbike to chevy, and sitting near the phone waiting and making calls while i am doing this, as i am building a trans, looking for honda 4 wheeler parts etc etc....this is not an excuse, but just so ya know where i am comming from. and this is on my days off.
No worries Bobby. No offense taken here.

Like I already wrote, I'm dissatisfied with the C-4, and this isn't intended to be a serious off-road machine.

I do intend to button up the engine bay if I keep working on this project. I need to trim out all of the extra wiring, make up some inner fenders to seal up the engine bay, and I want to build a front skid plate that would tie everything together.

This truck has been a work in progress. It's my first such build of this magnitude, and as you pointed out, I'm learning a few lessons the hard way. Now with a dead engine, I've just got to decide if I'm going to keep messing around with this one, or start a new project.
 

r1hatman

New Member
V8 Engine Swap
Joined
Dec 31, 2009
Messages
1,915
Reaction score
4
Points
0
Location
Knoxville, TN
Vehicle Year
1983
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
2.8
Transmission
Automatic
I'm not trying to be a dick, I'm just saying because you don't agree with the way his rig was put together, you don't have to start off bashing it, which is what it seemed like you did. Yes we are both from TN and we are friends and we go wheelin and work on stuff often. He actually posted that from my house today while he was over here helping me clean out my garage that he uses regularly. And that's your opinion about EFI, I can line up a lot of carbed cars that will smoke your "EFI" stuff! That's just more crap to mess up! Clean and simple.
 

feellnfroggy

Well-Known Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
Jun 11, 2008
Messages
4,454
Reaction score
28
Points
48
Age
43
Location
Knoxville, TN
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
4.0L
Transmission
Manual
I appreciate the patient response, I could see a flame war starting after I posted. But after seeing more of your explanation it makes a little more sense. Yes we were viewing the same thread at the same time. I'm over here spending a day cleaning out the garage and getting into trouble. However we weren't intentionally attempting to gang up on you.

I have to agree with EFI being better, I love EFI motors and avoid carb if I can help it. But for application purposes I don't see that it makes a difference what you choose, Some people can build one better with there available knowledge than the other. I don't think that EFI over carb when hardcore wheeling and in a bind will make a difference as its all in the build. Ive seen many high rpm carb motors that can run with hgh rpm efi motors off road and on.

What I meant by not being his decision was that it was not built by him. My grandfather got his hands on a motor I was working on and I lost that motor too. He knows what hes doing, but he didn't know what I was doing. For the OP its difficult to walk into someone else s project and know what is going on til it shyts.

Back to the main issues, I don't think your motor OP was randomly burping air into the Radiator, I'm thinking you were experiencing regular vapor lock due to the motor having never been burped properly to begin with. This is my guess based on your description of the problem. But then again you never know, there could be a pinhole leak above the fluid levels of the radiator. Which the vapor lock issues explain the overheating which is what caused you to crack the head or catch a gasket leak. If you buy another motor you will end up doing the rebuild process anyways if your smart or you can just rebuild this one. A second motor maybe just to make it drivable while you work on this one, but I would go ahead and rebuild this one. As far as the c-4 goes, You can make it work with gears, but a c-5 is just a c-4 with overdrive. The c-6 is what we plan to put in hatman's truck with the 289. Supposedly alot beefier and stronger. he needs gears too.
 

dagoof

New Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2010
Messages
74
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Vehicle Year
1990
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Size
302
Transmission
Automatic
Back to the main issues, I don't think your motor OP was randomly burping air into the Radiator, I'm thinking you were experiencing regular vapor lock due to the motor having never been burped properly to begin with. This is my guess based on your description of the problem. But then again you never know, there could be a pinhole leak above the fluid levels of the radiator. Which the vapor lock issues explain the overheating which is what caused you to crack the head or catch a gasket leak.
Are you suggesting that there may have been an air bubble in the coolant system. Wouldn't it have worked it's way out by now? I've been driving this truck off and on for over a year since we last filled the cooling system after doing the head gaskets. Also, it had the burping problem before that, and before I did any work to the truck.
 

gwaii

2010 OTOTY Winner
OTOTM Winner
2010 Truck of The Year
Joined
May 10, 2010
Messages
4,171
Reaction score
66
Points
0
Location
haida gwaii
Vehicle Year
1991
Make / Model
ford
Engine Size
460
Transmission
Manual
here....let me get my little bit in here too:D

is it possible that you have a reverse rotation water pump turning forward or vice-versa?

i've seen this happen before and the symptoms are a lot like what you've described
 

Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Members online

Member & Vendor Upgrades

For a small yearly donation, you can support this forum and receive a 'Supporting Member' banner, or become a 'Supporting Vendor' and promote your products here. Click the banner to find out how.

Latest posts

Truck of The Month


Shran
April Truck of The Month

Recently Featured

Want to see your truck here? Share your photos and details in the forum.

Follow TRS On Instagram

TRS Events

25th Anniversary Sponsors

Check Out The TRS Store


Sponsored Ad


Sponsored Ad

Sponsored Ad


Amazon Deals

Top