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Originally Posted by bobbywalter
another classic example of intended use verse build plans necessity.
Explain this please? He v8 swapped a ranger like a hundred others did. Shit breaks all the time.
mismatch of gears, tranny, and no 4x4 realities....how long has this thing been 2wd??? listen, i myself am guilty of this, and why i attempt to help others. its quite possible the gearing is the issue....not likely in itself but a main player....my very very first thought was inner chamber crack. i have fought that on a few builds.
the c4 is great for certain situations, i learned like you 15 years ago they suck for long distance commuting 4x4 rangers, and in an ext cab with just gt40 power levels bust like a4lds wheelin.
Dont understand this either, Ford ran these trannys in almost all the 1/4 ton trucks for many years. It obviously cant be that bad. A c-5 is pretty much a c-4 with overdrive. And gt-40 power levels? Are you talking about the highpower sports car for made or the horsepower of a gt40 intake equipped explorer?
ford didnt put em in 1/2 ton 4x4's.(of course the oem is moot in these conversations) the eb was nutless in any regards to power oem...and i mean nutless. 100% of the people i know that wheel/drive daily 300 hp engines with a c4 and 35 in or more tires have to build the fawk out of it..and i have been stuck helping or doing that many times for the vast majority to eventually switch to manual for wheelin. those that keep it and drive thier rigs need double underdrive. i found my ext cab ranger did not fit the needs of long haul commuter and weekend warrior. obviously the c4 can be made livible, but you have to carefully match the gearing and tire size for sensible economy, and engine rpm....i used to drive to tenn just to destroy my tranny..of course i wasnt hoping to destroy it...it just happened due to my ignorance and temp insanity. that was the 90's and i didnt give a fawk if i went home in a u haul
aod will need work no matter, but for basic power just a be controls valve body and fresh converter would be ok
Any used transmission needs work, but they will all be just as strong as you build them.
strong as you build them and aod is pretty wide in range...like 3 grand. for 350 bux a guy can build a stout aod at home...400 or so with proper lip seal tools. BUT, it involves careful shopping at the junkyard.
as to your engine, what was its original application? did you rebuild it?
what components, and machine work were performed?
good question
c4 and carb on a 4x4 are the first indications of bad combination in my experience, you can do it and get away with it depending on how ya use it, but it comes at great sacrifice to performance if you are not afraid to damage sheet metal in your 4x4 adventures.
C-4 and carb...really? Its all in the gearing and whether or not it a hp or torque built motor whether or not they work together good. And what does the engine transmission combo have to do with sheet metal? They affect his ability to not drive into trees?
you really really need to read what i stated again.
off camber is generally where you get into sheet metal trouble. you being from tenn can get away with certain build bias, you dont have to drive 70+ for 13 hrs to get to a good wheelin spot. but. for example you and me build a 4x4 ranger ext cab. we get identical mustang cobra engines. you go 600 cfm and i go oem efi, we get to a spot that lays us on the side and involves complex power application. you know...like alot of the fun places in tellico or places i have been in monteagle area both vehicles will stall repeatedly no matter what...both vehicles are autos one will have some serious issues. i built both of these vehicles in 1995 and had them down there in 97 so i know the outcome... i was building truck avenger type carbs long before holley sold them, and learned the tricks from guys doing it since the 70's when i was cutting my teeth in the early 80's....generally and in my application they were marine based carbs with spring loaded floats and a few other mod....old ass trick, and they were doing that shit down there in all of appalachia that i have since wheeled too long before i ever seen tenn kentucky pa or west by gawd virginia. the 4bbl truck ran great in almost anything else except for certain applications. going to a 500 cfm carb will virtually make the engine work nearly as well as the efi off camber....but on the road i can now kick your ass. where before you were beating me by 2-3 tenths. that is what it is.
if you are running 2wd because of the headers get different headers, cause your gonna need a huge lift to really clear well if the shaft wont fit at all now.
you made some bad decisions which had real deffered costs which have now come due.
<---Why would you say this?
the gears tire and need for lift due to motormount selection...based on the time spent in the 2wd configuration he really missed out and potentially caused the issues he has now with the 3 speed and tire size dictated by current lift....this is really answered earlier up i guess....now you know why they call me babbles....you asked for it
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what was its original application? did you rebuild it?
Did you ask this or not, so you dont know if he made the decisions or not. he might have been working with what he had.
i am definitely one to work with whats laying around...but sometimes its prudent to do some trading or swapping to optimize...a little more knowledge can save allot of issues making you want to scrap the project later..
best bet is find a decent used drop in and get an 8.8 with 308 gears in it, or find a 327 gear setup from a later ranger/ sploder. these are around and cheap. probably get a d35 piglet and rear end in the detroit area with 327 for under 200. same for a running engine.
This is not a bad suggestion by itself, it may be cheaper this way. I dont know that i would go as low as 3.08 but maybe 3.27 or 3.55's
since he run so long 2wd dropping tire size a bit and going 308 isnt so bad...though 327 would be ideal with 33's and a nice 351
what an engine looks like on the outside means nothing to me. but in my eyes you have the wrong look for a low 4x4 application, should be efi that is snorkel equipped with eliminated dizzy or pos pressure /booted dizzy, though if you dont wheel that dont matter at all.
Looks dont matter to you but it looks wrong? Cause it has some bling? That tell you his compression and cam specs? Im an efi guy myself, but some people prefer carb, they are just as capable.
i certainly see the confusion i caused here. my tiny little brain has one picture and it does not describe it all. i hope i am not muddling things further.
"looks" in reference to bling being first priority on a wheeler is bad....this is what i meant on aesthetics
"wrong look" in this case was not meant to be purely aesthetic---but biased toward particular functions. its a generalization of apparent goals and priorities gleaned from the picture...and a guess.
if one really wants to spend that kind of time washing shit you cant get too, wear yourself out, but when your low you need to consider the air inlet as priority..if its a dirt roading streetrod then its a non issue...fawkers always clean anyway. in this case that is the case...
but if priorities change the engine compartment should look different then that for getting stupid off road.
if not....no matter what our opinions are...he will eventually need a new engine unless he is lucky that not changing the "look" of the ignition situation kills the engine before the water is gobbled down the intake at 6 grand trying to get across the mud puddle... unless that does not happen anymore.
....you have a street rod setup in my eyes. and of course is perfectly fine for normal use-street or dirtroading.
Again i dont get this, why does it "look" like a street rod setup? It looks like a nicely done v8 swap into a 4x4 ranger that is washed regular and taken care of. How about addressing the issues. He overheated and needs some possible courses of action. Ask for some more specs on his setup before you just tear him apart. Maybe Im just cranky today, but I dont normally see you respond this way. This just sounded mean.
i sure as fawk thought i was concentration on the overheat issues previously....i just finishes a project that had issues and brought that up too as a matter of fact the c4 and gearing is likely a big part of it and quite possibly the fawker just needed to be richened at cruise or something as 3100 isnt too high for the little bastards...
too many potentials even with limited info.