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Pulled ten codes from truck :(


Andrewjhj

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Bought the truck a while ago and found out previous owner decided to bust the check engine lights so it wouldn't work (friggin moron) so decided to pull codes to get her running right and got ten (plus abs light not worried about that yet). Codes are as follows KOEO 118-123-113-337-519-341 KOER 412-116-121-411 had to use a computer because wire trick wouldn't work for me. So far replaced battery, now voltage is around 14.52 no load. Cleaned grounds and truck is running worse. Any help or direction would be appreciated
 


BlackBII

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Well lets see

118 (O,M) ECT sensor is/was high or open - ECT
123 (O,M) TP is/was high or short to power - TPS
113 (O,M) IAT sensor is/was high or open - IAT
337 (O,R,M) EGR feedback signal is/was was high - EVR
519 (O) PSP switch/circuit open - PSP
341 (O) Octane jumper installed (information only code to notify you if it is installed)
412 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low) - ISC
116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
121 (O,R,M) Throttle Position (TP) sensor out of range - TPS
411 (R) Idle speed system not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) - ISC


Lots of issues!

The main three that will cause your truck to run poorly are the TPS(Throttle Positioning Sensor), ECT(Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) and the IAC(Idle Air Control)

I would start by cleaning or replacing the IAC Valve and testing the TPS and ECT to see if they are actually working.
 

Andrewjhj

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Cleaned the iat valve (dirty) replaced the other sensors also no change ( junkyard find tested good before install). No change. Can't find an EGR valve (busted diaphragm) at the junkyard so I have it mounted and blocked off.
 

tomw

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With all those things... and running poorly, I would suspect a bad ground to the cab, engine or frame. Another possibility is a loose connection on the starter relay where the loads are picked up via fusible links, or the power distribution box if you have one. I think you are losing the connection to the sensors or their connection to ground. If the ECM relay was a bit drifty, it could be cutting the power on and off, making things more flaky.
I doubt you have all those things gone bad at once.
As far as the EGR, you may be able to modify a later year valve to work with your vintage. Sometimes it is just the style of the connector that was changed to 'upgrade' or have better connector live, or to condense the part number proliferation.
If that fails, you might be able to use RTV to seal a leaky or damaged diaphragm through the holes on the 'backside' or 'underside' depending on how you view it. Just smear some RTV over the perforations and let it set up. A thin coat is all that would be needed.
tom
 

Andrewjhj

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Ahh good old rtv (it can seal anything if you apply enough lol). So looks like I get to clean and probably add grounds just so I have better piece of mind. At lower rpms it feels like the parking brake is on (it's not checked multiple times) after about 15 mph she will take off like a model rocket (it's a 2.3 great motor but not much power).
 

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