Project 4x4 Commuter Mazda

[legoms013]

After installing the new leaves I find that my one piece driveline rubs on the middle most crossmember so that will need to be addressed, but for now about 200lbs of scrap steel in the bed allows it to be driveable.

Rear shocks seem a bit too short by about 2-3 inches I'll have to take them off and measure for my new ones next week and possibly look into limiting straps (pulling apart some expensive shocks isn't my forte).

Still haven't got around to putting on my new braided stainless steel SJ brakelines up front, note the droop in the one picture has pulled it taught (not good lol).

Front shocks seem long enough, front suspension is about at its capabilities in last picture.

Current setup still surprises me and I am still debating if I should even mess with Early Bronco components for the sake of flex on a truck that will pull DD duty in the fall. The Early Bronco stuff is so temping, but it might be more trouble than its worth at this point in my life. Still going to order some of those James Duff Coil buckets when they are available just to have on hand. But I'm thinking I will acquire the parts in a "slower" fashion and plan for the EB flex setup to be completed NEXT summer...that gives me ample time to collect:

>EB coils (correct ones that is the first time)
>EB pads modified for TTB usage
>Modified SJ radius arms to accept dual shocks
>4x Bilstein 5100's
>StoneCrusher or SuperRunner steering setup, or possibly custom one based on the StoneCrusher setup only with TRE's instead of heims.
> and any misc hardware and extras that will be required (bolts, steel plate for tabs etc.

What I am going to do is the following (at least for this summer):
Modify my current coil buckets to accept the F250 shock tower mod,
run some long shocks, and go to Skyjacker 6" drop brackets as I need those anyway....then graduate from Tuff Country 4" coils with washers to Skyjacker 6" or 8" coils. Relatively bolt on, minimal down time, with no modification to the current steering setup while still providing a fairly nice ride on road with a fairly flexy (but not record setting) ride off road.

 

[-Nathan-]

Hey legoms13, Im pretty much in the same boat you are, I just installed my Bilstein 5150's in the rear of my truck, they are the 14 " travel shocks. I have the same Bilstein 5150's for the front, but in the 12" variety. I have a set of F-250 shock towers as well to mount up. Ill make sure to post pics. Are you going to weld the side of coil bucket to the side of the side of the tower?

 

[legoms013]

Yeah this is what i want to do, looks the strongest but ill move the tower up higher to utilized more shock length:

I forget where I stole this picture from so speak up if this picture is yours, I greatly appreciated the usage of it, original picture owner. It maybe be from the Explorer Forums.

How do those bilsteins ride on the rear axle?

 

[r1hatman]

Nice build! Those are some quite fetching boots I must say! LOL

 

[-Nathan-]

Hey, I could INSTANTLY tell the difference. I had a set of Ranchos on it before, and it still amazes me how much more stable, and smooth the rear-end travels now. Im SUPER pumped to get my fronts mounted as well. I cannot say enough good things about the 5150's....Bilsteins really are that good. I'm not sure how the 5100's compare, but Im sure it is similar.

Yeah, I had planned on plating mine just as in that picture as well, probably with 1/4" plate though, it looks like 3/8 in that picture...thats way overkill.

Oh, and I forgot to mention, you had said something about your driveshaft contacting your mid cross member? If its the one that the carrier bearing used to be on, just remove it. I cut mine out when I did my 1 piece drive shaft swap. Its not needed.

I may get the gumption to do my shock towers this weekend...well see.

One more thing, remember the bilsteins use a 1/2 bolt (minimum), so drill out the shock tower mounting holes, as they are a bit smaller, and would be a pain to do mounted.

-Nate

 

[ChrisR1S]

Just read through your whole thread... Good build! On thing i did see though in that last flex picture, extend your front brake lines! That drivers side line looked like it had tension on it. Other than that i like it!

 

[fordxranger]

Just read through your whole thread... Good build! On thing i did see though in that last flex picture, extend your front brake lines! That drivers side line looked like it had tension on it. Other than that i like it!

doesn't look like you read anything:

Still haven't got around to putting on my new braided stainless steel SJ brakelines up front, note the droop in the one picture has pulled it taught (not good lol).

 

[legoms013]

I'm not sure how those boots made it into my picture, or why I didn't move them when taking it hmmm....

Well there is an article in the tech library about the 1 pc driveshaft swap and it says to not remove that cross member as its a structural part of the frame...but to me it seems like the truck could live with out it as it has an additional crossmemeber in front and behind of that one. It just says to re-locate it farther forwards I think. Not sure what to do about it.

Yeah I'm surprised I haven't broken a brake line yet up front, while its fine for DD its sorta sketchy off road with "that" thought in the back of my mind. I just need to buck up and put the new ones on...

I've only EVER heard good things about Bilstiens, whether that be the OEM replacements, 5100's or 51xx's so I'm pretty sold and if they don't hold up to the talk people make about them I'm gonna be mad

 

[-Nathan-]

haha yea, the bilsteins are great. Ive got front and rear hitches, and not to mention all the other cross members on the frame. Myself and few of my friends have removed it. I beat the living crap out of my truck, and theres nothing affected by removing it.

 

[fordxranger]

Well there is an article in the tech library about the 1 pc driveshaft swap and it says to not remove that cross member as its a structural part of the frame...but to me it seems like the truck could live with out it as it has an additional crossmemeber in front and behind of that one. It just says to re-locate it farther forwards I think. Not sure what to do about it.

just axe the carrier bearing crossmember, like you said there are enough on the frame already and its just in the way. I did the 1pc driveline swap like 4 years ago and i've been running without it since then. there are no cracks in the frame and it doesn't have any more frame flex then it had before the swap from what i've noticed.

 

[Ranger44]

I think you might have mis-read the article.

I'm pretty sure they removed the cross-member, because it wasn't essential to frame structure......

Btw, legoms013, I have a half finish setup that is basically the same thing you have pictured. PM sent.

 

[legoms013]

Here is an excerpt from the article:

"If you have a suspension lift taller than 4" installed, you will also need to either move the entire crossmember forward some (drill new holes, reattach with bolts), or notch the center of it for clearance. This is so the shaft doesn't contact it (and possibly get dented) when the rear suspension is fully extended.
Complete removal is not recommended (it is a structural frame component)."

But if you guys have done it, it would be a whole heckavu lot easier just to sawzall that sucker out of there and call it a day.

Got your message Ranger44 and sent a reply.....

 

[legoms013]

Today my dad had a genius idea about what to do with the crossmember that was rubbing on my driveline. Instead of cutting it out, we torched a circular cross section out of it just below the driveline, and welded in 1/3 of a piece of 6" pipe. I'll post pictures soon as a picture is worth a thousand words...

 

[legoms013]

So here is how I fixed my driveline rub:

Still needs some work, but for now the load bearing abilities are back to what it was (or better maybe?). The welds were hard to do but got plenty of penetration. Strength-wise its fine. Need to still clean it up a bit with a wire wheel/grinder and take it to work and put a nice MIG cover bead over all the seams, and paint.

Enjoy

 

[legoms013]

So somebody speak up: would there be any benefit to running dual shocks (like two Bilstein 5125's per side valved at 170/60) on TTB ranger coils?

Or would that only be beneficial for when running softer, flexier coils such as the Early Bronco ones?

Debating whether to run dual shocks when I get a set of James Duffs new coil buckets someday or just run one with a TTB coil (per side of course )