Preparing for 5.0 swap, what issues am I likely to encounter?

[JoshT]

Preparing for my engine swap to hopefully start in about a month. Hopefully the week of president's day. I'm planning to have a full week to dedicate to the swap. The intent is to roll the donor into the shop on a Saturday, and roll out a V8 swapped Ranger on the following Saturday or Sunday. I will have a few weekends following to iron out issues, but it would be best if it's moving under its own power at the end of that week.

The donor is a 2000 Explorer 5.0L AWD, I have the complete running and driving vehicle. The recepient is my 1999 Ranger 4.0L auto 4x4. The goal is 1999 Ranger 5.0L AWD that is slightly lowered (for a 4x4). Similar build to what @lil_Blue_Ford has built with his 2000 Ranger, atleast I think it was that one. In addition to the donor vehicles, I have a set of OBX headers and components for front live axle conversion. Also have some items for lowering (torsion keys, shortened shackles, etc) but I know that lil_Blue_Ford encountered issues with driveshaft lengths and/or angles so that part of the project might wait until I get the swap complete and driving.

Reading through the tech articles the '00 Explorer AWD to '99 Ranger 4wd seems like a straight forward, bolt-in swap when retaining the AWD transfer case. My experience says that these projects will never actually be that way.

In effort to be as prepared as I can before starting I want to ask the swap gurus around here. What am I missing? What components will I need that are not included in the two vehicles? What snags and gatchas am I likely to encounter that are not included in the swap articles?

So far I know that I'll have to tackle PATs, but that is a documented issue. I am prepared to tackle it in two ways. I can swap over the PATs from the Explorer and get a second key made later, or (preferred) I can use ForSCAN to mate the Ranger's PATs to the Explorer ECU.

I've read something about AC pressure switches, but the vehicles in that swap article don't exactly match my configuration due to different years and/or engine options. I also don't recall seeing that mentioned in other swaps. Is this something I am likely to actually encounter and what is the fix? I won't need AC when I start the swap, but this is Georgia so it'll be a must soon. Aside from this potential snag I intend to directly swap the entire intact AC system with the engine.

Same article mentioned a solenoid wire plug:

Solenoid Wire Plug

This plug is right underneath the lines that come off the abs.

The Ford Explorer and the Ford Ranger plug do not match up. (I think they were both male)

What solenoid are they talking about? Starter solenoid? This article was for a '00 Ex into a '98 Ranger, not a '99 Ranger. Still an issue?


Oil cooler adapter, can I retain it? Atleast one article says that it has to be replaced with a plain 90 degree adapter or with a remote filter kit. I know that is an issue on TTB, TIB, and SLA coil spring trucks. The front frame of the Torsion Bar SLA Rangers is practically the same as the Explorer. Can it really not be used? I'm not saying I'd want to keep it forever, but I'd prefer to keep it for sake of getting the thing swapped and running.


Hoping some of the gurus around here will chime in with their unpredictables (atleast for the uninitiated). I know I'm still likely to encounter some, but I want to be as prepared as I can. My concern is expensive items I won't know about, or unexpected parts that may stop work for several days or weeks. I want to plan and prepare for as many of those items as I can.

Thanks,
-Josh


PS: Hope this is understandable and not too full of typos. I'm exhausted and eyes messed up, so I'm not thinking or reading clearly as I should be. I've delayed on posting this thread too many times and don't want to put it off any longer.

 

[bobbywalter]

there are differences. if its all in. its all in.


study the explorer carefully. the fuel systems iirc are different for 99....still return on ranger. might be wrong.


study it and line it out. converting the fuel system is a potential challenge...though easily remedied.

rear drive shaft....i usually make one at home to make sure i know exactly what i need.

just depends on what you want to do.

 

[JoshT]

there are differences. if its all in. its all in.


study the explorer carefully. the fuel systems iirc are different for 99....still return on ranger. might be wrong.


study it and line it out. converting the fuel system is a potential challenge...though easily remedied.

rear drive shaft....i usually make one at home to make sure i know exactly what i need.

just depends on what you want to do.

Thank you for the quick response. I was just coming back to subscribe to the thread, wasn't expecting a reply already.

The/My '99 Ranger is returnless. That's why I snagged a returnless Explorer. '98 Ranger was return style, so was '98 Explorer. I've got a '98 Explorer drivetrain as well that I considered using, but I needed a wiring harness and other parts to complete the swap so I went for another full donor.

I'm not too worried about the rear shaft, just noting it as a potential issue for a portion of my overall build. @lil_Blue_Ford is running a stock shaft with his lowered truck, but says that it's too long and/or the angle is wrong IIRC. It should work out ok on a stock height truck so I don;t mind postponing the lowering until later if needed. I'll be saving the "extra"driveshaft so making one, or getting it made, later shouldn't be a problem. When the time comes I'm probably going to want to have it built and balanced professionally since that's not something I'm experienced with, don't have the tooling for, and intend to eventually turn fast. Like I said, that is an issue that can easily be put off for a later date.

Ok, this text is litterally looking like it is riding on waves from the medicine floating around in my eyes. It's rolling kind of like an oil film on water, or maybe looking through a clear lava lamp. I think I need to go get some shut eye now.

 

[bobbywalter]

then its just a matter of labor.


the great thing about the windsors....if your planning a build...you can still get a donor block for next to nothing. the 351 is much better when your starting from scratch....depending on goals. but the 5.0 is easy and cheaper. a girdle and some block cement can attain 500 reliable hp with a solid aftermarket rotating assembly.

so just drive it with the current donor and take your time building a powerhouse. 2 years collecting parts and money....negates any wallet pain. and you will have a rippin awd beast.


its the only reason i like the LS 5.3 so much. there is no waiting. and cheap.

i would consider the 6r80. you would love that gearing....

 

[ericbphoto]

What solenoid are they talking about? Starter solenoid?

I havent Read the article. But, from your description, it sounds like they’re talking about the electrical connector on the ABS module itself.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Ok, so… I’ve done two of these swaps so far. The first was a 2000 Mountaineer into a 2000 Ranger for dad. That swap was pretty straightforward. We didn’t swap motor mounts, but I did drill a hole in the one motor mount plate on the motor so it would fit the Ranger mount. Most of the swap was straightforward. We changed engine, transmission, transfer case and used the Explorer radiator and exhaust from the manifolds to after the cat. Had to splice a few wires. Used the Ranger axles and driveshafts, IIRC.

My swap went a little sideways because I decided to do more stuff. Plus I had some unexpected broken bolts and stuff. Of course, that also resulted in finding out the timing chain was pretty stretched. So probably a good thing overall. Using the Explorer axles and doing spring under with all the Explorer rear axle goodies became a challenge. I tried not to do any cutting and welding, but it has to be done. I did heavy spring packs, Belltech extended shackles and still ended up low. And the pinion angle was all wrong plus the traction bar mounts were in the wrong place. So I ended up cutting and welding the spring perches and traction bar mounts. Really wasn’t a huge problem. Rear driveshaft ended up being like an inch and a half too long. I cut and welded it then took it to a driveline shop to be balanced. Front shaft I had to use the Explorer front shaft for some reason that’s still not entirely clear to me.

Both swaps had the oil cooler. I used the Explorer oil filter, 820s I think it is. I think I could fit a full FL-1a on mine, but I also made custom transmission lines which I think is where the FL-1a gets to be too long with the factory lines. I used a 2007 F-150 transmission cooler, had to make a couple mods to make it work, but I’m quite happy with it. I would also highly recommend a shift kit.

Use the hoses and compressor and stuff for the AC, the condenser and evaporator are the same. If you open it up, it’s a good idea to replace the evaporator/dryer and put a new orifice tube in.

Wiring. If memory serves me right, most of the wiring issues is adapting the AC and starter solenoid wiring. I harvested some plugs at the junkyard and made my own adapter harness. I have the details somewhere. The important videos are up on my YouTube since I’m probably forgetting something.

Oh, I bought Magnaflow crossover mufflers for both swaps, 2.5” two port in and out, stainless, think it was the 18” long one and ran true duals.

 

[JoshT]

so just drive it with the current donor and take your time building a powerhouse. 2 years collecting parts and money....negates any wallet pain. and you will have a rippin awd beast.

i would consider the 6r80. you would love that gearing....

That's the plan with the "spare" engine.

I might look into that 6R80 in the future, but for now I'm going to hit the easy button with the 4R70W.

Ok, so… I’ve done two of these swaps so far. The first was a 2000 Mountaineer into a 2000 Ranger for dad. That swap was pretty straightforward. We didn’t swap motor mounts, but I did drill a hole in the one motor mount plate on the motor so it would fit the Ranger mount. Most of the swap was straightforward. We changed engine, transmission, transfer case and used the Explorer radiator and exhaust from the manifolds to after the cat. Had to splice a few wires. Used the Ranger axles and driveshafts, IIRC.

Not being critical by breaking this apart, just easier for me to respond this way. That's probably almost an identical swap to this one, except I want to eventually have it lowered like your more recent swap.

My swap went a little sideways because I decided to do more stuff. Plus I had some unexpected broken bolts and stuff. Of course, that also resulted in finding out the timing chain was pretty stretched. So probably a good thing overall. Using the Explorer axles and doing spring under with all the Explorer rear axle goodies became a challenge. I tried not to do any cutting and welding, but it has to be done. I did heavy spring packs, Belltech extended shackles and still ended up low. And the pinion angle was all wrong plus the traction bar mounts were in the wrong place. So I ended up cutting and welding the spring perches and traction bar mounts. Really wasn’t a huge problem. Rear driveshaft ended up being like an inch and a half too long. I cut and welded it then took it to a driveline shop to be balanced. Front shaft I had to use the Explorer front shaft for some reason that’s still not entirely clear to me.

Thanks for the info. I'll have both Ranger and Explorer shafts available, so I should be covered there. I should be able to cut down and weld a shaft well enough if necessary, the issue will be finding a place to have it balanced. I don't know of any shops that do that around here.

Explorer axle and lowering is part of the end goal. That said, it doesn't have to happen right now. If it will allow using stock driveshafts for the time being I'll postpone the lowering and Explorer axle swap. I don't have a problem keeping the stock 4.10 Ranger axles for now. I also have a 3.73 Ranger axle that I can swap in to match the Explorer front diff. That gearing would work better with the tire size I have in mind right now, just the truck would sit a little higher than I probably want, like a stock 2wd in back.

Both swaps had the oil cooler. I used the Explorer oil filter, 820s I think it is. I think I could fit a full FL-1a on mine, but I also made custom transmission lines which I think is where the FL-1a gets to be too long with the factory lines. I used a 2007 F-150 transmission cooler, had to make a couple mods to make it work, but I’m quite happy with it. I would also highly recommend a shift kit.

Thank you for confirming that.

I might have to play with transmission lines a bit too. I intend to use the Explorer's stock transmission cooler, but I have two so I may daisy chain them. I do intend to do a shift kit, but I think I'll be waiting a bit on that. Want to get it going first and when I build the next engine, I'll probably be building (or at least rebuilding) the transmission as well.

Use the hoses and compressor and stuff for the AC, the condenser and evaporator are the same. If you open it up, it’s a good idea to replace the evaporator/dryer and put a new orifice tube in.

Wiring. If memory serves me right, most of the wiring issues is adapting the AC and starter solenoid wiring. I harvested some plugs at the junkyard and made my own adapter harness. I have the details somewhere. The important videos are up on my YouTube since I’m probably forgetting something.

The plan is to transfer the entire Explorer AC system over to the Ranger, without opening any lines if possible. I'll likely end up completely rebuilding that system as well, but it would be great if I can put it off for a bit.

Good idea on making adapter harness. I've got the whole Explorer a parts Ranger, so I can probably find enough connectors to do the same. Got a link to your YouTube account, I'll start browsing it. (might be in your sig, I can't see it on this device)

Oh, I bought Magnaflow crossover mufflers for both swaps, 2.5” two port in and out, stainless, think it was the 18” long one and ran true duals.

That also sounds like a great idea. Knock out part of the exhaust, get a batter sound and a crossover all in one. I could install a muffler and some simple turndowns myself, that would let me run it until I can get it to an exhaust shop for the rest of the system.

 

[fastpakr]

The only wiring I can remember adapting on my swap was a ~4 pin connector on the driver's inner fender. All the colors matched up, and it even used the same type of connector on both vehicles, but the genders were reversed so I cut one and sliced it with the correct piece from the other harness.

 

[JoshT]

Oh, I bought Magnaflow crossover mufflers for both swaps, 2.5” two port in and out, stainless, think it was the 18” long one and ran true duals.

Do you remember if 2.5" is the stock size for the explorer pipes, or did you have to adapt to it? Did you build all of the exhaust, or install the muffler and hire out the rest?

I'll have to dig around the parts piles and see if I still have the downpipe and cat section from the other Explorer that I scrapped out for the engine several years ago. It was a '98, but should be the same. Probably in better shape than my donor's exhaust too unless exposure to rain has damaged it. With that I could pretty much get a temp exhaust setup and ready to go before diving into the project.

I might leave something on the table, but I think I might go with a Thrush Turbo 2.5" dual/dual. I've seen tyno tests on the single/single offset 3" version that say they sacrifices a few HP on a 350 HP engine with true dual exhaust. I won't be making 350 with this engine, and if it's an issue with the next engine I can adress it then. Also the dual/dual Thrush Turbo appears to be a different design than the standard single/single turbo mufflers, it actually appear to be a "straight through" crossover design like the Magnaflow that you used. Bonus is that it's about half the price, and since it's aluminized steel I'm equipped to weld it at home. Aluminized steel is not a problem around here, it lasts a long time. I've also used the generic turbo mufflers on my old 84 Ranger with 2.8L V6 and my 68 F-100 with 390 V8 and liked the sound on both.


EDIT: Ialso see your YouTube link in the signature now. I'll take some time to start browsing your build videos.

 

[bobbywalter]

ya know....

i have seen where guys spend days trying to get exhaust apart up here....and still tore a bunch of shit up trying to cut bolts... you could end up janking around the egr or something...which will be crap that takes up time.


one guy already had three weekends and more then 20 bits trying to put a ttb lift on. he told me he needed to borrow my old school right angle drill....and i couldnt figure out why the fawk he would need that for a ttb lift... so i was curious... i felt bad when he was expecting me to help drill the last two passenger beam drop pivot rivots from the back with the engine jacked up and i buzzed off the rivots from under the k member with my grinder and knocked it off in 3 minutes.. and he did some damage to wiring and exhaust and shifter jacking the hell out of the engine which took a few days to work through..


so there is that. things of that nature.


i will tear a truck right apart and reassemble it before doing a swap. the whole front clip. that can take a whole day or more depending on how its done.

it is not necessary. but if i am doing the swap...it will happen. once removing the front clip is an option....working on the engine is easy.


in the case of the sla trucks....where you know where its bolting in to....this is something i may let go.... but if its getting anything other then an explorer engine....clips coming off.

 

[JoshT]

Rust welding is a potential issue, the donor was from Ohio IIRC. Fortunately, I don't have to use a lot of the very rusty bits. Main thing I see being an issue with removal is the manifolds and cat pipes. Manifolds are getting replaced and hopefully I've still got the other set of cat pipes. Maybe engine mount bolts, but I'm kind of thinking about replacing them anyway since the donor is high mileage.

Well the hood will be coming off, the front end will get blown apart for live axle conversion, differential might get swapped for gear change, and I'm planning (& have most parts) to convert to 01-03 grille. The front clip will prectically be apart.

I figure EGR might be an issue with the headers, I 've heard of people fighting with the tube plenty. I intend to fit and tweak all of that on the engine before it goes into the bay. aside from the cats back, the most exhaust issue I expect to have is broke manifold bolts. If I have enough of those I'll run up to summit (bout an hour away), grab a cam and head gaskets, and swap the heads from the other motor which shouldn't have that issue. I'm pretty certain that I had the manifolds off the other engine since the last time it ran.

Aside from that, I'm fully aware that nature of these things can be an uncooperative b!@#$. There ain't much that can be done about it other than prepare as much as possible, which is what I'm trying to do.

 

[Bigmatthew86]

My Ranger is a 2wd & am running a spring under with explorer axle & leafs. No cutting or welding from what I can tell. It sat a little lower than I liked so I added a leaf & like how it sit now. No longer bottoms out against the frame. This was prior to the add a leaf. I gained about 1.5 on the rear.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Do you remember if 2.5" is the stock size for the explorer pipes, or did you have to adapt to it? Did you build all of the exhaust, or install the muffler and hire out the rest?

I'll have to dig around the parts piles and see if I still have the downpipe and cat section from the other Explorer that I scrapped out for the engine several years ago. It was a '98, but should be the same. Probably in better shape than my donor's exhaust too unless exposure to rain has damaged it. With that I could pretty much get a temp exhaust setup and ready to go before diving into the project.

I might leave something on the table, but I think I might go with a Thrush Turbo 2.5" dual/dual. I've seen tyno tests on the single/single offset 3" version that say they sacrifices a few HP on a 350 HP engine with true dual exhaust. I won't be making 350 with this engine, and if it's an issue with the next engine I can adress it then. Also the dual/dual Thrush Turbo appears to be a different design than the standard single/single turbo mufflers, it actually appear to be a "straight through" crossover design like the Magnaflow that you used. Bonus is that it's about half the price, and since it's aluminized steel I'm equipped to weld it at home. Aluminized steel is not a problem around here, it lasts a long time. I've also used the generic turbo mufflers on my old 84 Ranger with 2.8L V6 and my 68 F-100 with 390 V8 and liked the sound on both.


EDIT: Ialso see your YouTube link in the signature now. I'll take some time to start browsing your build videos.

I honestly don’t remember what size the stock pipes are. When we did dad’s, we just had the Explorer exhaust to past the cats. When I did mine, all I had were two stubs off the manifold because someone cut the cats off the donor. For mine I put the stubs on the headers and drove it to the local exhaust shop (custom shop). Handed over my universal high-flow cats and crossover muffler and told them I wanted 2.5” stainless (rust is a problem here). We used the same shop years ago doing dad’s. Since I only wanted to do exhaust once, I needed to have the suspension work done so they could make sure everything cleared. It’s a tight squeeze when it’s lowered with the Explorer goodies. Aluminized steel gets you about 2-3 years around here with rust.

As for the shift kit, I was going to do it, but ran out of money and time. I’m not happy with the 4R70w in stock form. I said something to @holyford86 when he was visiting and after he took it for a test drive, he agreed it’s a tad sloppy. There doesn’t seem to be as much that can be done to these compared to the A4LD, which is probably a good thing that there’s less flaws, lol. From what I’ve seen, it appears there’s a basic shift kit, a performance shift kit, and a manual valve body conversion and shift kit. There’s also a couple things mentioned on the Explorer forum, but the tech article there is kinda incomplete. At some point in the relatively near future I intend to get the performance shift kit. Just not happy with the sloppy shifting.

Oh, and the headers don’t fit setting a complete engine. Well, maybe if you pull the steering shaft and the ac/heater box. I had to take I think the drivers side header back off and do some wiggling and all to get the engine set with one header on. Can’t remember if I pulled the steering shaft or not. I did set engine and trans in one go on both swaps, I didn’t want to be trying to do bellhousing and torque converter bolts in the truck. Even with the core support out of the way, it’s a squeeze. The first one we did we used a machine and didn’t pull the core support. That was a riot. May or may not have worked easier. Certainly messier.

IIRC, factory manifold bolts are 3/8” coarse thread. Mine came out fine. Other bolts were a problem (intake, valve cover, water pump). You will want header bolts for the smaller head. I tried socket head bolts and had to use a ball end long socket Allen to get around the header pipes to get it together. Think I had to go to 1” long header bolts.

Oh, I had all of the accessories off the front of the motor when I set it, bolted up that stuff after, made for less stuff to work around setting it. I also left the upper intake off.

 

[Bigmatthew86]

A shift kit or j mod perks up the shifting a lot. I have a 00 mountaineer with a 5.0 & then have my ranger with the engine/tranny out of a 96 explorer that has been j modded. It shifts so much harder/faster than the 00. The later 4r70’s had more improvements than the earlier but enlarging a few holes & replacing a few accumulator springs makes a big difference. Be prepared to break some bolts. I’m in South Carolina so no rust issues here & I recently swapped cams. Broke 2 in the timing cover & 3 lower intake. So change anything you plan on doing while the motor is out. If you think you want a different cam do it while it’s out too.

 

[JoshT]

My Ranger is a 2wd & am running a spring under with explorer axle & leafs. No cutting or welding from what I can tell. It sat a little lower than I liked so I added a leaf & like how it sit now. No longer bottoms out against the frame. This was prior to the add a leaf. I gained about 1.5 on the rear.
View attachment 105079

Thanks for replying. 2wd coil spring (?) Is a slightly different swap, and you are almost definitely lower that I'll ever be. That said I have all the same parts you mentioned already stashed away. Explorer axle and leafs. No add-a-leaf, but extra Ranger and Explorer spring packs. Longer and shorter shackles. I'm prepared to play with it, but what I end up using will depend on how low I can go with the torsion bar 4wd front. Like @lil_Blue_Ford, I'm going to need upper arms to do much and it looks like that is a custom deal for this setup.

Until I can get the upper arms, I may just run Ranger leafs without the lift block and turn the torsion bars down to match. AKA, stock 2wd height.

FWIW I've also got an '85 2wd, a spare Explorer axle, front brake upgrade, and drop beams. What ever components I don't use for lowering the '99 will likely be used when I get to building it. That one is probably staying 4 cylinder, but might get a turbo build. That's for another, future thread though.