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PlumCrazy's Build


PlumCrazy

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99supercab

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well i work down at spurgeon chevy across from the fair grounds n we do all the work on rexroth's cars so i either see the honda or the truck everytime im there
 

PlumCrazy

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Updates coming soon. Finished my On board air setup and made some new trim to hold the carpet edge down.
 

PlumCrazy

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Update.

Have been pretty busy with work, but I did manage to get some work done on the truck this past week.
First off, the doubler is slowly progressing. I used my uncles mill to get the filler pieces I welded in the sit flush with the case so it will contact the plate evenly.


I also got the shaft made, I turned the tranny output shaft down and pressed it into the tcase shaft. I made it about .005” interference fit, so the press fit held it straight when I welded it.


I also threw together a quick and dirty OBA setup. I decided to use two air compressors from Lincoln Continentals with air ride. They are only like 20 bucks at the junk yard and are simple 12 volt oil less compressors with Teflon rings on the pistons so they last damn near forever. I was going to use the compressor from a Town car, but I found the Continentals with 4 wheel air ride have a compressor with a longer stroke. The heads and pistons are still the same as the Town Car though.
I had to modify the compressor a bit to make it work. I removed the twist lock filter-drier thing with push lock 3/16 fittings, since it was a pain to work with. I pulled the head apart and removed the valves so I could make sure I kept all the debris out. I cut the part off of the head where the filter locked in, then I drilled and tapped it to 1/8 NPT, this way I could just is a threaded hose barb. The Lincoln also had a solenoid built in to the head to release pressure off of the bags, but I am using a external head relief, so I wanted to remove it. In order to remove it I had to drill out the hole in the head a little larger, then I tapped it to ¼-20 and used a bolt with RTV to seal it up. Under the plate where the solenoid was is also the intake hole, so I made a filter out of a scotch brite pad and stuffed it behind the plate.


Here is a comparison of the head before and after.


I used 3” muffler clamps to mount the compressors to the side of the box. I used an old air compressor cycle switch to control two 30 amp relays to control the compressors. The switch turns them on at 90 psi, and off at 120 psi. It also has a valve that releases pressure between the check valve and the compressors once the system reaches 120 psi.


I was able to use the check valve from the same compressor I pulled the switch from. It has the ¼” head relief fitting already on it.


I pulled a little two relay box from a Ranger at the JY to hold the relays, and I ran an 8 gauge with from the rear battery to a 40A breaker that supplies power to the relays. I found a rubber grommet at work that fits perfect in a 2” hole and allowed me to poke holes just big enough to shove the hoses through and keep the box sealed up from underneath.



I used a vent from Lowes that fits in a 2” hole to make an intake hole in the box. I also cut a scotch brite to fit behind the vent to make a little filter. I put toggle switch on the box so I can turn off the compressors as well.


I also had my dad make me some trim pieces for the edge of the carpet. Since everyone with a 93+ Ranger knows how fragile the stupid plastic ones are. They are stainless steel. ¾” x ¾” x ¾” Z-bar. I held them down with Stainless screws as well.


And lastly I finally got around to fixing the less than desirable shackle angle I have had since put the 5.5” Chevy lift springs on.
Here is how they looked before.


Getting the weight off of the springs took a little while.lol


With the slightest bit of a load the shackles went completely horizontal and the Chevy lowering shackles I used have beefier sleeve for the bushings and they rubbed the hanger whick made my truck squeek every time I turned or hit a small bump.
So I made new hangers that move the mounting point back about 2” and down about an inch. I used ¼” plate and some 1.5” x 1.5” x ¼” wall angle.


Now the shackles are 90* to the spring, and they don’t squeak, and my truck doesn’t lean back at all. My tuck used to sit almost perfectly level, but if I was accelerating or parked with my wheels turns or on a hill the truck leaned back, which I think looks atrocious.



I also turned the shackle around while I had them off. I remember getting shit about how they were mounted when I first put them on.lol
 
Last edited:

PlumCrazy

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Here are few pics of my Dads new whip and my blue turd


 

PlumCrazy

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I fixed my driver side power window finally too. It turns out that the motor was full of water.lol IDK how that happened. It had some other issues too though. When the previous owner replaced the regulator he used a hammer and a dull chisel to remove the rivets, which distorted and fubared my inner door skin enough to make the teeth on the motor and the teeth on the regulator hardly mesh. So I go the door all straightened out and put a new motor on it.

I also found that a brand new Ranger power window motor is like 120 bucks, and a new motor for a 90's F series is like 40 bucks, so I being the cheap ass that I am, i went with cheaper one that was in stock verses paying 80 bucks more and waiting a day for it. I had to swap the electrical plugs and the drive gear because the plugs were different and the gear has fewer teeth. but it is the same motor and gear box.lol
 

Beef52751

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I swear, every time i look at this thing it just gets more and more badass!!! Im probably going to steal a few of your ideas :)
 

PlumCrazy

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I swear, every time i look at this thing it just gets more and more badass!!! Im probably going to steal a few of your ideas :)
I try to do my best with comes my way. I appreciate the compliment.:beer:
 

PlumCrazy

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The UPS man brought me some goodies.


Comp Cam 422, Smith Bros pushrods, and springs

I also picked up a timing set, upper and lower intake, timing, valve cover and waterpump gaskets, and some Delta cam hardened rockers.

First I had to remove my backrack and stack so it would fit in the garage, truck looks pretty naked, but I kinda like it.





Thats where I stopped for night.

Knocked all of the porcelain out of a spark plug and tapped it to 1/4 npt and screwed an air disconnect into it. Hopefully I get all the springs changed without dropping a valve.
 

alwaysFlOoReD

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Old school that works too is stuffing some rope down the plug hole.
Your truck looks good,

Richard
 

PlumCrazy

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Old school that works too is stuffing some rope down the plug hole.
Your truck looks good,

Richard
Dad mentioned that, but the back cylinders are a bitch to get at.
 

AgPete139

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Total Lift
~9"
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35"x12.50"x17"
Nice documentation. So, when are you gonna help me with my truck? lol

I like the motor options...I'm excited to see those updates as well.

Also, were those old tires that you smoked, or the ones youre using now? Rubber is too expensive for that, for me! Ha.

Keep up the good work...

Pete
 

PlumCrazy

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Nice documentation. So, when are you gonna help me with my truck? lol

I like the motor options...I'm excited to see those updates as well.

Also, were those old tires that you smoked, or the ones youre using now? Rubber is too expensive for that, for me! Ha.

Keep up the good work...

Pete
They were old bald Dick Cepeks.
 

Ranger Sport Honduras

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Thanks Crawlin.


I snapped a few pics of my switch panel. The buttons are all push on push again to turn off.

Sweet build man! and i just realized we have the same headunit LOL. and a similiar idea for switches.
 

PlumCrazy

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Cam is in. Truck runs like a top.

I got kinda of excited and didnt take too many pics.

Cam out


Putting on the new springs



Back together


I still need to get an wide band air/fuel gauge so I can get it tuned.

Next on the list is some New slave cylindr, Hedman Headers, New steering box, and finish the doubler

I picked up a new perfection slave today, and I have got to say that I am impressed. It is the "updated" design. It weighs twice as much as the OEM, and it uses a cast iron base verses the stock plastic. It also has an updated hydraulic fitting with an external clip. I am hoping to have it on tomorrow.

I put the cam in and started it up for the first time only to find that I couldnt get it into gear with the truck running. I bled it, but that only worked for about a 8hrs,lol I can see where fluid is leaking out of the bellhousing.
 

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