parking brake going out

[brianb]

Possibly stupid question, but i'm asking it. My parking brake is going out, if I park on a incline, it will creep a little...sometimes I leave it in gear to avoid this. Is this adjustable, or is it because my rear brake shoes are probably old and worn. 2001 Mazda b2500.

Also, sperate question, suspension is squeaky when going over bumps....any suggestions?

 

[DookieTx1911]

Possibly stupid question, but i'm asking it. My parking brake is going out, if I park on a incline, it will creep a little...sometimes I leave it in gear to avoid this. Is this adjustable, or is it because my rear brake shoes are probably old and worn. 2001 Mazda b2500.

Also, sperate question, suspension is squeaky when going over bumps....any suggestions?

I don't want to sound mean, but since no one else has chimed in; I'm going to suggest that you take your ride to a shop or buy some beer for a friend with mechanical experience.

 

[Pengy]

Backup at a moderate speed, and apply parking brake, this adjusts your rear drums. Repeat a couple of times, if it still doesn't want to apply, take off rear wheels and manually adjust the shoes by turning the bottom knob thing with a star wheel on it until you can't fit on the drum anymore.

Grease up your front sway bar bushings.

 

[Insanejughead]

What Pengy said.

However, on the method of manually adjusting your brakes, I have a slightly different method.

1. Block the front wheels and jack up the rear axle off the ground; put transmission in neutral.
2. Get a brake adjusting fork (or flathead screwdriver) and locate the inspection port in the bottom of the backing plate to the brake drums.
3. Remove rubber plug (it may be missing, no big deal) and adjust star adjuster until it causes the wheel to drag slightly.

Note: the adjuster should only turn one way. There is a device on the opposite side that keeps it from turning backwards (causing the brakes to loosen up). Also, both sides have different threads, that is, one turns left to tighten, the other turns right to tighten.

4. Once the wheels start dragging slightly, have someone push about a little less than halfway down on the e-brake pedal. This should cause the wheel to be so solidly locked in place that you cannot turn it by hand.
5. Lower rear axle and unblock wheels. Check e-brake again on incline.

 

[adsm08]

You shouldn't have to be moving for the auto adjusters to work. Make sure they aren't frozen and that your shoes are not shot.

 

[Pengy]

What Pengy said.

However, on the method of manually adjusting your brakes, I have a slightly different method.

1. Block the front wheels and jack up the rear axle off the ground; put transmission in neutral.
2. Get a brake adjusting fork (or flathead screwdriver) and locate the inspection port in the bottom of the backing plate to the brake drums.
3. Remove rubber plug (it may be missing, no big deal) and adjust star adjuster until it causes the wheel to drag slightly.

Note: the adjuster should only turn one way. There is a device on the opposite side that keeps it from turning backwards (causing the brakes to loosen up). Also, both sides have different threads, that is, one turns left to tighten, the other turns right to tighten.

4. Once the wheels start dragging slightly, have someone push about a little less than halfway down on the e-brake pedal. This should cause the wheel to be so solidly locked in place that you cannot turn it by hand.
5. Lower rear axle and unblock wheels. Check e-brake again on incline.

I don't have the access hole on my 2000 b2500 which is why I suggested the backing up way.

 

[Insanejughead]

I don't have the access hole on my 2000 b2500

Really? Damn.

I know about the back up and stop hard method. I just offered a different way to get to the adjuster for him, if it's possible, of course.