no brakes??

[bert296]

heres the whole story, about a week ago i smoked a rear wheel bearing on my way home, and suddenly had no brakes? i figured the wheel seal got hot (everything got really HOT) and burnt out the seals and fluid was just flowing by so i bought bearing seal and wheel seal and tore into it, first the little bolt, in the rearend broke off. got that out then the big pin through the spider gears, was stuck in so i took the whole axle out and to a buddys shop, and torched it out got a new pin changed both wheeel bearings seals and EVERYTHING in the rear brakes.

now just got it all back together and blead and blead and blead all 4 corners and nothing pedal goes right to the floor will not get hard. im stumped any ideas???

 

[doorgunner]

I always bleed the line Before attaching it to the new wheel cylinder (with help of course).....that makes bleeding the cylinder easier/faster....

a lot of fluid may have siphoned off from the other wheel cylinder before you reassembled everything---making the problem worse...my 2cents....

 

[bert296]

i got them to work a little bit today pedal is still very soft no where near what it should be tho pedal goes almost to the floor and then front brakes lock up.. any ideas?

 

[merace19]

You got air.. Start with the passenger side and bleed till you get no air. I use a clear tube and attach it to the bleeder, then tie it up and then down. That way the air will come out and go up and the fluid will keep any other air from going back in. But that is your problem if they was fine before the cylinder went bad.

 

[bert296]

thats what i think to but when i bleed them i get solid fluid coming out must be an air trap in there somewhere

 

[FritzTKatt]

Air, bleed it and bleed it. Bleed 'till fresh fluid comes out. Watch through a clear line and your bleeding reservoir (cup of fluid) will turn black, at least mine did from all the crap.

I never had a problem bleeding from empty lines, it just took a little bit. But always bled them 100% at each wheel, rear pass- rear driver- front pass- front driver. Then go back and do it again, at least once. Check all your fittings for leaks, if the fitting won't stop leaking after being put on with a wrench, the fitting is bad. You shouldn't need a tube wrench.

 

[bert296]

think i figured it out this morning.. blead the master cylinder and got alot of air out that way and the brakes seam alot better

 

[Andy D]

Yah, you may have to bleed a few more times to get the air out. Keep an eye on the level when you have a line off. You dont want let the MC get too low.

 

[exbass94]

Are the rear brakes adjusted properly??

 

[bert296]

rear brakes r adjusted out where they should be... i will have to bleed them again the pedal went spoungy again today really bad hopefully i can figure this out soon

 

[snake]

Sometimes the master cyl will be at a bad angle and it can't be properly bled on the truck so it needs to be bench bled then reinstalled- then bleed the rest of the system...

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Sounds to me like you need to slow down. First bleed the master cylinder have someone pumping the brakes for you. Have them pressthe pedal down and hold pressure while you crack the lines coming out of the master cylinder. It is real important they hold pressure on the pedal until you tighten the line back up. Pump the pedal twice and hold do that a couple times and keep the master cylinder full of fluid. Then go to the farthest wheel pump twice and hold be sure and tighten the bleeder before they let up the pedal. The commands are you say pump they pump the pedal twice and say hold you open the bleeder before the pedal hits the floor close the bleeder and say pump. Keep the master full at all times. When your confident that line is bubble free go to the next one. Good communication between the pumper and bleeder is important never open a line or bleeder without pressure on the pedal. If you get a brake light you need to center the switch to do that use the same procedure after you have the brakes bled press on the brake pedal and watch the light crack one of the lines coming out the master cylinder as soon as the light goes out tighten the fitting use a rag to catch the brake fluid it is bad on all the parts under the hood flush with soapy water when done. If the light dont go out try the other fitting until you can center the switch. the key needs to be on emergency brake off. oh yea did I say keep the master cylinder full one brain fart and your back to square one. GL

 

[kimcrwbr1]

A couple hydraulic line wrenches are recommended for the master cylinder fittings so you get then good and tite.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-6pc-METRIC-Flare-Nut-Wrench-Set-Fuel-Brake-Air-Conditioning-Hydraulic-Lines-/121004383480?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item1c2c6c5cf8&vxp=mtr like these

 

[PanamaExpat]

Many years back maybe 30 a friend of mine brought his dad's Nova over to my house asking if I would look at a problem with the brakes going spongy every couple of days. He had a wheel cylinder fail and there was a lot of corrosion that had been sucked back up the brake line from that failure. After playing with bleeding for a few tries I went and grabbed a kit for the MC. When I opened it up there was a very small particle of rust that was breaking the seal between the piston and the wall. Honed it out and put the kit in and that problem was solved. Then we discovered rust chunk problems in the proportioning valve also. Just a thought but try kitting your MC.