New project 1992 Ranger Fireball

[Elutheros]

Forgot to mention the F150 was a 5.0. Should bolt right on?

 

[RangerSVT]

He's refering to the 97+ f150's that had the 4.2. You're good to go...

SVT

 

[Elutheros]

After working on the 3" body lift for 2 days I miss my 67 Dodge Power Wagon haul anything, go anywhere beater truck:

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[Elutheros]

Progress is being made. Got the body up, but need more big washers to finish the job. Then I have to do the bed which should be a lot easier.

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[Elutheros]

Looking forward to getting this stuff under the truck:

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[Elutheros]

Body lift is complete--that was no fun. Three trips to urgent care for a piece of random steel in my eye--even though I was wearing safety glasses over my regular glasses. Two very uncooperative bolts/clips. Always takes longer than you expect. Hope to at least drop the drive shafts and disconnect the clutch line and transfer case before the end of the day.

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[Elutheros]

Got the transmission up into a temporary position today. Anyone have suggestions on the hole for the 1356TC shift mechanism and lever? I don't want to start hacking just yet. The M5OD2 shifter is 4 inches further forward than the old trans--I knew that would be an issue. Does anyone have a photo of their shifter setup with that trans? Thanks!

[/URL][/IMG]

I'm also wondering if I should look for a different crossmember for the rear mount. That hump in the middle really jacks the trans up pretty high. Can't remember if there is a straight mount that can be used from a different Ranger.

[/URL][/IMG]

 

[dangerranger83]

I used my original ranger mount, just had to cut and reweld the inner frame mount on the passenger side to get stuff low enough since I didn't run a BL, check my build thread out to see what I did.

Here's a link to guy doing the same swap but with a b2 but is also running a BL.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=129036

It is recommended to test fit the engine and transmission together since the engine placement is very important and get it back as far as you can to the fire wall. That will also determine where you put your transmission mount.

The flat mounts were both on 2wd and 4wd, it's a hit or miss thing. If you get the transmission up high enough then you can clear the front driveshaft and not have the clearance issue I'm having to where I have to redesign my xmember for front shaft clearance.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[Elutheros]

I'm really starting to doubt that I want to press on with the 1356 T/C. since I only paid $60 for it I won't be losing much and might even be able to sell it for more. I'm thinking an electric 4406 might be the easiest. Don't know if those had a speedometer hook up in them or not.

 

[dangerranger83]

The 1356 will fit so much better then the 4406 since the 4406 is so tall. In the link it shows the guy trying to make it fit but couldn't and I think him also modding the 4406 for a speedo gear.

If wanting to change TCs then I recommend the np205 because how compact they are...heavy, 1.96:1 low ratio but are compact, almost grenade proof and can be dual sticked. You will need to build a support for them. If not that one then the np208 would be a next best.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[Elutheros]

First attempt to check engine fitment using the Marquis engine: Those are some F100 engine mounts I picked up from Rockauto for $15. I figured that if they did not work I wasn't losing much. I think they are going to be a fail--too low because the rear of the oil pan is sitting on the crossmember. here's the driver side:

[/URL][/IMG]

And the passenger side:

[/URL][/IMG]

Firewall clearance:

[/URL][/IMG]


Rear of oil pan no clearance:

[/URL][/IMG]

Front sump:

[/URL][/IMG]

Transmission/firewall:

[/URL][/IMG]

Trans crossmember has to move with these mounts:

[/URL][/IMG]


Radiator clearance:

[/URL][/IMG]

Spent a good bit of time at the machine shop yesterday getting estimates. They are saying $600 + tax + valve springs and seals if needed to hone, hot tank, new freeze plugs, clean and polish crank, new bearings, re-do the heads. I'm intimidated by the prospect of doing that myself, but I might just get them to do the heads, polish the crank, and I could do the rest. Still contemplating how to proceed on the engine build. Having 2 engines available gives me too many choices.

 

[dangerranger83]

With the mustang you get forged pistons, HO engine and the better heads. But with the marque, you get an engine that you know the mileage on but less desired power.

Now if you can take the mustang things and put them in the marque block then you may be better off unless the mustang block is good then it's a matter of going through like you were going to do. But you will need to run the marque double sump pan and its oil pick up tube.

93 mustang convertible mounts are what you want or you could do the 4.0 mounts and 1/4 steel plates , which are more desired, write up is in the tech library on those and the mustang ones. Since you have ttb front suspension, like all 4wd rangers do from 83 to 97, I would recommend the plate mounts since it allows the engine to sit higher and so you can get the drain plug out unless you plan on moving the drain plug.

Your FEAD to rad clearance is great but to get the most accurate, mount your water pump on. Also you will need at least a 4.0 explorer rad to keep her cool and what I recommend a good electric fan such as the Taurus 3.8 efan.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[Elutheros]

I'm pretty sure the HO block is the one I'm going to use as it looks pretty good and I don't want to take a second engine apart which might actually help fund the project. I already ordered the plate mounts from a member here yesterday. That is the 4.0 radiator in place and I already have the Volvo fan which I have used on two previous RBV projects--it works great.

On a side note, I got the idea for for the F100 mounts from doorgunner (i think), but I think he could use them because his vehicle is 2wd.

 

[dangerranger83]

His is 2wd but he is also is running a Chevy 350.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk

 

[dangerranger83]

Looks like you are heading down the right path and everything is everything out as it should.

I need to rethink my fan setup by moving the coolant temp sensor to the lower rad hose, once my thermostat opens then closes, the sensor sits in the hot coolant right after it keeping my fan on making my alternator work harder despite the coolant in the rad and engine being down enough to have it turn off.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk