New clutch time!

[tsayyote]

So in the midst of moving and planning for a wedding, my throwout bearing decided to file for retirement Friday night.

So did some searching here and got some good info, just need some opinions on my choices. Truck is a 99 2.5 manual rcsb, bone stock with 232,xxx miles. When I bought the truck from a tow yard, I went through it and everything I could see under the hood was motorcraft, so I'd like to keep everything as close to oem as possible.

1. I intend to replace the rear main, pilot, flywheel, clutch, throwout, and slave since I'm gunna be in there. I'm looking at this Luk Repset clutch on ebay for $225 that includes the slave http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUK-CLUTCH-KIT-SLAVE-CYLINDER-FORD-RANGER-MAZDA-B2300-B2500-B3000-2-3L-2-5L-3-0L-/400388521612?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3903fe8c&vxp=mtr These guys are 15 minutes from me so I can pick it up the same day. From what I read here, this seems to be a good kit?

2. As for the flywheel, Ford gave me part number f57z-6375-a costing $190. Being as the truck has 232k on it, I just want to replace the flywheel since I'm not sure if the one in there would still even be within spec to true, but I don't want to spend $190 on a flywheel. Should I order a Luk flywheel or is there another that would be a good choice for daily driving?

3. I'm also not sure if this truck has the 6 or 8 bolt pattern bolts on the flywheel. Can anyone clarify? I'd like to replace them too and would prefer to have all the parts when I begin the job so I can finish it quickly.

Thanks guys!

 

[chandymanusa]

I would also do the clutch master also.

 

[tsayyote]

good idea! thanks for that

 

[PlumCrazy]

Luk makes a quality product. I run Luk clutches in everything I own.

-PlumCrazy

 

[tsayyote]

Pulled everything out today. Everything I pulled out had a Ford stamp on it!! I was expecting Duralast. lol. Previous owner kept her up well. Turns out my pilot bearing was bad, not the t.o.b.

So, I pulled the flywheel off and noticed a little oil near the crank. It appeared to mainly be coming from the back of the oil pan, so I cleaned that the best I could and put some black rtv silicone over it. I didn't pull the pan, so I don't have high hopes that this will stop the leak completely. Judging by the pictures, do you guys think I should tackle the rear main seal?

I don't have the seal installer is why I don't want to pull it if I can avoid it, but it appears to be flush with the cap, so I could make sure the new one is roughly the same position.

Anything else I should have a look at/replace while I'm back in there?

Top of the crank:

I made a little mess with the silicone. oops.

 

[adsm08]

Take the flywheel to a machine shop and get it turned. Ususally runs $40 to 50, and most can be done a few times.

 

[tsayyote]

actually bought a Luk flywheel with the clutch set. ill probably end up giving my old clutch/flywheel away for free. its still got a lot of life on it. it was only the pilot that was bad

 

[Andy D]

I replaced the rear main seal. It was less than 10 $ from Auto Zone.


PS. Since my BIL told me to place the new seal a little off from the original ,so the lip seal rides on a fresh area of the hub, My seal jobs work better