need help getting the bronco running

[kimcrwbr1]

did you clear the codes then disconnect the battery for 15 min after you replaced the sensors

 

[shawn.m]

list so far
cleaned IAC -
cleaned and tested IAT- spec within range
new plug wires -PO
replaced MAS -PO I cleaned it as it was dirty - maybe it was not new but a junkyard one?
replaced TPS-PO Verified it is a at .97 at throttle closed and goes smoothly up to 4.9 volts
replaced Crank Sensors- PO -pulled connector and cleaned it spray cleaner
Replaced coil pack- PO
replaced O2 Sensors
replaced EGR purge Solenoid, verified held vacuum, verified click open when 12 volts applied, verified that wire harness is good from EGR connector to fender well connector.
Ran new vacuum lines for EGR Purge Solenoid
verified could see through cat - PO
replaced battery with optima redtop - PO- battery at 12.8 volts rest- charge 15 volts
Ran new grounds and cleaned grounds, bat to alt, bat to ECM ground, bat to frame, cleaned and redid battery connections
replaced Water temp -2 wire- PO
replaced fuel filter - PO
ran wires to neutral gear switch - verified that car will not start when in gear and clutch is in gear.
fuel pressure - KOEO - 39psi Engine running 30psi - 39psi - when motor stumbles did not lose fuel pressure. stayed at 30 psi
Vacuum is at 18in idle goes to 22 throttle off on road- goes down to 1-0in at full throttle.
hooked timing light to #1 light skips every once in a while only skips a little when the motor is dieing.
I probably need to verify all the things that the PO did are good.

KOEO codes 522 565 threw a 528 code run time error as I was messing with clutch switch when it was running.

when motor is in open loop it runs decent. as soon as it goes to closed loop with engine in the warm zone it does a stumble and dies every once in a while. Fuel pressure stayed at good pressure, voltage on dash gauge does not change when motor dies. As it does the bucking and stumbling thing - if you put it in clutch the motor will recover. As soon as you let out the clutch the motor starts to die, or starts bucking as if it is not getting fuel. or bad fuel.

I think I am down to the big things
EDIS
ECM
Wire harness

little things to do
clutch cutout switch
ignition switch?
pull wires and check them
pull plugs and check color
compression test
run seafoam through manifold
run seafoam through gas tank

 

[shawn.m]

new codes interesting in that I cleaned the ACT, verified it worked as expected and now I get a code. I also was moving the wires around under the manifold as I was putting in the new vacuum lines
116 Air Charge Temperature (ACT) sensor – signal voltage is higher or lower than expected.and
114 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor – signal voltage is higher or lower than expected.

need to clear all codes and see how many come back

 

[shawn.m]

reran codes after clear and did not get the ECT code
took IAT off and noticed that the terminals were stuck together. carefully pried them apart clean again and put it back together. runs better with no hesitation. lots more power also. need to do a couple of longer runs to see if it comes back.
the temp is really pogoing almost like the thermostat is sticking.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

hey i have been reading your post and was looking at a schematic and yout neutral safety switch controls the start solenoid and there is a neutral sense switch and a clutch triple function switch and power steering pressure switch that are all connected to your sensors with the black/white wires on each sensor I will bet it is the loop somewhere between the computer all the sensors and those three switches will the engine raise rpm when you put it in gear and turn the wheel depending on throttle position, egr position, mapp pressure, engine temp, 0-2 and air temp and what switches are closed tells the computer what rpm to run and air fuel mix and that is just for idle. test the black and white wires for shorts or breaks I`m guessing it has something to do with a connector on my harness when i took it out all the black and white wire were connected in different places but all your problems have the black and white wire in common

 

[kimcrwbr1]

or it coud be th ACT sensor not being plugged in right yea sounds like you got it erase codes and reset computer and take it for a good beat then retest

 

[shawn.m]

well bought a new IAT from kragen. completely new design that eliminates the oil pooling problem that I had with the stock IAT.
notice the difference in the picture. Took the bronco for a long drive with some Seafoam in the tank. Runs pretty good now. Has a lot more power. Only thing that is still hanging on is the high idle- stuck at 1100-1200. Unplug the IAC and it drops to 1000 RPM

Not sure if it will pass smog at 1100 rpm so need to work on that next

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I dont know kinna sounds like the engine temp sensor telling the comp it is not warm yet is your coolant topped off and tstat working good you can test the sensor resistance cold then hot

 

[kimcrwbr1]

is the engine getting good and hot I would change the tstat just to eliminate that variable

 

[kimcrwbr1]

sounds like your getting close it is real important to clear the codes then reset the computer and allow it to set new values whenever changing any emission related parts drive at medium to high speeds for a bit till it smoothes out then test again when good and hot

 

[shawn.m]

it is getting hot - just running from the low line to the mid. this usually speaks to a thermostat not working or air bubbles in the system. Thermostat is next- coolant is topped off and working correctly. just happy we are not doing the surging and bucking deal.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

and dont skimp on the tstat it is real important for performance

 

[kimcrwbr1]

get it to idle you should fly thru emissions make sure it is good and warmed up first

 

[shawn.m]

and dont skimp on the tstat it is real important for performance

which tstat are people using? I will probably go for the 180
you can get
Stant 198, 180, $7.99
Stant Thermostat: SuperStat(R) 180 degree Part Number: 45368 $10.99
JET Performance Thermostat: JET Stat 180 degreee10142 $14.29

 

[shawn.m]

Oh Yeah after looking at my new Chilton manual I have a 1993 Ranger 4.0 motor and wiring harness, which does NOT have the camshaft sensor, EGR vacuum regulator