Mosin–Nagant 7.62x54R

[The Jester Race]

A nice alternative to the rinky-dink safety I also found on there is to click the bolt over a little bit from straight up (there is a detent) and pull the trigger (pointed in a safe direction of course) and it will uncock the bolt as it spins down. No way the gun can go off then unless you pull out on the bolt knob (easier than running the safety) or swing the bolt up and back down to recock it.

I would advise against that. When the Mosin Nagant is "decocked" the firing pin is exposed, so the firing pin would be resting on the primer. One good bump and boom. See for yourself, pull the bolt out of your mosin, and turn the knob 90* counter clockwise(like you would when you disassemble the bolt) that is how it sits when it is "decocked".

As for the safety, crude? Yes. Rinky-dink? No. It is a very simple, strong, and affective design. When engaged it locks the firing pin back and essential locks up the entire action.

If you dont like the Mosin safety, I believe Timney makes a drop in trigger with a Remington style safety.
http://timneytriggers.com/sunshop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=50


-Jester

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

That is a good point, like when you adjust your firing pin the lever is down. I edited my post to take that out to avoid leading others astray. Where ever I heard that said it will not make your gun go off, but if you drop it or something and it lands on the knob hard I don't see why it wouldn't go off. I did try decocking it with a live round and mine didn't go off.

I still like the idea for storage though, it takes tension off the spring. It is kind of fun to do too.

I am not a huge fan of the safety, I have never used it because I have always just loaded and shot and never really carried it around loaded before. Standard procedure where I shoot is action is open unless you are shooting. I would be tempted to try to carry it on a empty chamber when I am hunting rather than try to fight with the safety in a hurry.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I got my stock, and have it on. Only snag is the front sight will not budge so I can get the small band off.

Are they sometimes glued on or what gives?

 

[The Jester Race]

It shouldn't be. But there is no telling what the previous owner has done. Are you drifting it out the right way? It should come out the right side, your right side as you sight down the barrel with the muzzle pointed away as though shooting.

Try taking a little heat to it. If you use a torch be careful not to heat the barrel too much.

-Jester

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Yeah, I was trying to go to the right. It looks the the dovetail is tapered.

 

[pontiac_fiero_g]

make absolute sure you run some amonia through the barrel after shooting surplus or piss down the barrel (that was the most common way to clean it during the war) or else the barrel will rust real quick. i have an older 91/30 and have hit a pie tin at 300 yards with open sights. they are exceptionally reliable and ive never ever seen one jam.

 

[daniel3507]

Shot one of these for the first time today. I really want one now.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

make absolute sure you run some amonia through the barrel after shooting surplus or piss down the barrel (that was the most common way to clean it during the war) or else the barrel will rust real quick. i have an older 91/30 and have hit a pie tin at 300 yards with open sights. they are exceptionally reliable and ive never ever seen one jam.

I use windex with amonia, it seems to work pretty well.

With the stock on it looks pretty sharp, my "oopsie" silver scope really sets it off in my opinion. It is going to take a lot of work to get it floated though, it is pretty tight. I still have to get that stupid front sight to move so I can get the small barrel band or to even use the regular steel sight. For the upcoming deer season I decided to run with the wood stock and dink with the synthetic stock in the offseason.

I went to sight it in today, started hitting the paper and would have every time except the duct tape failed on one side thanks to the cold and the paper folded up on me. It was grouping really nice IMO, and I kept checking the scope in case it was coming loose. On shot # 16 it went way out of the group but still on the page. Checked everything and the scope still seems tight but I noticed moved ahead far enough that it actually unclipped the rear barrel band and moved the handguard ahead.

It took more than one shot for it to do this. Come to think of it I did notice it was getting weird to look thru the scope for probably the last 3-4 shots but I thought it was because it was a combination of it getting dark and that my improvised shooting bench (a hog feeder on end with a rest on top of it) isn't quite ideal. The scope was still tight, but I didn't notice it was marching to the front of the gun.

Dunno if the threads pulled out of the aluminum converter or what. I had everything locktighted and had it tight. If the converter didn't come loose, just thinking on the way home I think I could notch the bottom of the converter in the right places and put spring pins in the old sight base pin holes.

I didn't touch a thing and put it in the case and went home.

EDIT: I pulled it off and the screws were still fairly tight and the threads look intact. It might have loosened up, I would have thought it would have been tighter going by how tight they were when I put them on.

 

[crbnunit]

Just a question, and I am certainly not one to ding someone's project, but why are you putting all this money into this particular rifle? Isn't the whole point of these things that you can get and adequate rifle for $70-$80? I'm guessing $100+/- for the scope and mount, $100 +/- for the stock and say another $75-$80 for the bipod... You could have bought a pretty decent rifle or shotty for that. Just curious.

 

[The Jester Race]

Just a question, and I am certainly not one to ding someone's project, but why are you putting all this money into this particular rifle? Isn't the whole point of these things that you can get and adequate rifle for $70-$80? I'm guessing $100+/- for the scope and mount, $100 +/- for the stock and say another $75-$80 for the bipod... You could have bought a pretty decent rifle or shotty for that. Just curious.

Because you can. Same concept of tuning cars, yes its adequate but it can be made to better suit your needs. Can you show me a decent rifle plus glass for $360?

-Jester

 

[crbnunit]

Just curious. Here ya go on the cheap rifles with glass:
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=30-06&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=16473396801196478074&ei=iJQiTezzII34sAOHw8WmDw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CDsQ8wIwBA#

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=30-06&rls=com.microsoft:en-us:IE-SearchBox&oe=&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=7678911029168988239&ei=iJQiTezzII34sAOHw8WmDw&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CD4Q8wIwBQ#

That was the first two links that popped up.

Nothing wrong with your project and I'm not poking fun. I'm interested to see the groups you get out of that thing. Post up when you have a better rest and a decent day to shoot!

 

[The Jester Race]

OK you shut me up with that. I wish I could see prices like in California. That Savage goes for $600+ in the local shops. This isnt my project, but I have a Tika 91/30 that Iv done some work to, that shoots MOA with surplus ammo.

-Jester

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Just a question, and I am certainly not one to ding someone's project, but why are you putting all this money into this particular rifle? Isn't the whole point of these things that you can get and adequate rifle for $70-$80? I'm guessing $100+/- for the scope and mount, $100 +/- for the stock and say another $75-$80 for the bipod... You could have bought a pretty decent rifle or shotty for that. Just curious.

Scope - $150 - with the front sight post covering up half the paper at 70yds I didn't see it hitting the paper much better than my shotgun.
Scope mounts - $25 ($10 rings with a $15 adapter)
Stock - $70 - not really needed but the buttpad will be a nice alternative to a flat steel plate.
Bypod - $50 but purchased 2 years ago for my muzzleloader so essentially free for this project.

So with the gun, figure about $350.

I already have a decent shotgun, and for the way it was shooting yesterday before the scope came loose I also have a decent rifle if I can engineer a way to keep the scope on it. I am not a professional shootist, so I am not really expecting professional groupings with it. This is my first real rifle and I kind of gather than shooting well doesn't happen overnight so don't get too excited expecting MOA groupings out of me.

The only Savage within gunshot of that price around here, is the rumored Stevens replacment Edge. The difference between with a a scope and without a scope is $50 which makes me wonder how great of a scope it is. I have heard mixed reviews about the cheap Remington. I did look at the bargain guns before I did this and wasn't really impressed with the feel of any of them. I would like to get a regular Savage with a wood stock and the Accu-Trigger at some point though, but they don't really compare well pricewise with my little conglomeration.

Just like my V8 swap in my Ranger, it is fun to play with... only I can play with this in the basement where it is warm.

 

[mwood1985]

military rifles have always been some of the most accurate. for instance my great grandpa was a WWI Marine and Grandpa was a WWII Marine. great grandpa used to tell the family about the 6th Marines (his unit) using 1903 Springfield rifles with iron sights to open fire on a German regiment as they left the trenches at a range of about 1000 yards the effective aimed range of the Gewher rifles the Germans carried were about 500 yards. by the time the Germans got close enough to the Marine lines to actually use their rifles effectivly most of them were dead.... so at half a mile the marines were making chest shots on enough germans to stop a regemintal charge. thats a damn fine rifle if you ask me. i actually have two of them. one was brought back home by each grandpa. ones got a 1916 serial number and the other a 1937 number. both were designed in 1903 and both will still outshoot every modern rifle i own. and ive got some good ones. the best ive got is my British NO4T Lee Enfield sniper rifle though. .303 10 shot magazine and a 6 power scope. if zombies or Democrats attack im getting on a mountain top with that baby

 

[crbnunit]

I can honestly say there are only about two weapons in my closet that haven't been modified or tinkered with in one way or another. It is fun! And like the trucks, once you start modifying them, it hard to stop!