Many gem codes

[Collank]

Missed shifts, delayed shifts, doesn't down shift into first coming to stops most the time while the rpms hang at 2k making it very hard to stop givin it won't shift, doesn't like overdrive and 50 is what she tops out at unless I floor it, 4x4 low issues, lights and switch all work, door ajar light and dome light stay on too long, wipers cut out. The truck is manual everything no power windows. If I'm in drive stopped and hit the gas then let off quickly the rpms will go up and get stuck pushing the truck forward till I either put it in neutrual to stop it, on wet ground it peels out. I was sideways at an intersection. One shop told me iac so they replaced it to no avail. Another told me transmission and the last one told me torque converter while they all are disregarding the gem codes stored for many months cleared and stored again. I also replaced rear abs sensor, cranks sensor, cleaned maf, cleaned throttle plate, cleaned connectors and battery. I pulled the gem and it has 2009 stamped on it so it's been replaced before. Cleaned every connector behind the radio including 4x4 relay checked fuses and relays all seem good. I've been to three shops that never looked at it more than an hour and I'm out hundreds of dollars. Any help would be appreciated. Engine light has never come on, just hidden gem codes. Is the gem bad again?

 

[RonD]

No probably not the GEM or you wouldn't get codes, but could be

Your Drivers door switch is most likely bad which is why the dome and door ajar stays on with door closed

Ignition key ground wire may have been cut or otherwise disable to stop the Chime

Does the speedometer/odometer work?
That is in the GEM
As is the wiper and 4WD controls

You cleared the code, what about disconnecting battery negative cable for 5 min or so to do a hard reboot on all the modules/computers

How long have you had this Ranger?
Maybe previous owner swapped GEM out before, i.e. odd power window code


GEM is the body computer with no connection to engine/trans or engine computer(PCM)
So RPM and stalling issues are not related to GEM at all
PCM does need the "speed signal" from GEM for automatic shifting

 

[Collank]

The speedometer has been fine mostly but on a handful of occasions in the last few weeks it's lost total calibration for about 5-10 seconds and starts jumping all around as I'm going down the road till is finds itself and dials back in to correct speed. The 33's cause the speedometer to show about 7 miles slower than what I'm going at highway speeds. There is no door chime when I have them open so maybe it's been cut. I'll check it out as well as the door switch. I've disconnected and reset the computer more than a dozen times due to disconnecting things and reconnecting things. I can't do it with forscan due to an error but I had the battery unhooked all night and day yesterday. I always leave it unhooked for near an hour and it always resets because I can hear it when I turn the ignition. I've had it 5 months the previous owner was my cousin a manager for big 0 he only owned if for 5k miles the original owner from day one was an older guy who put 150k on it. Yes the gem was swapped, it has 2009 right on the sticker of the gem casing. I find it odd I'm getting power window, rear wiper, accessory relay delay, all circuit failure codes and its a manual in every way as far as roll up windows and no rear wiper. As far as the speed sensor codes go could that be in correlation with the shifting issues? If the pcm isn't getting input from the gem? It acts like my f150's and expy did when the rear abs sensors failed.

 

[Collank]

This is what made me think the gem could be the culprit. The truck showed a p0320-p code a month ago and for three months hear and there it cranks strong for about 5-7 seconds then it sounds like it sucks air chugs for a second and smooths out. It doesn't happen often and it's much more likely to happen after a steep hill and letting it sit for a while after. I replaced the crank shaft position sensor and has only done it once for a couple seconds since then with no code return. The no start and rough idle at first made me think gem with what this sceen shot shows. Before the iac was replaced I replaced the pigtail connector and wired it myself with weather proof heat shrink connectors.

 

[RonD]

That is totally bogus info in that screen shot

Only GEMs that can work in a 1998 Ranger are from a 1998-2000 Ranger or B-series

Ford part number should start with:
F87(1998 Ranger)
XL5(1999 Ranger)
YL5(2000 Ranger)

 

[Collank]

Perfect thank you for clearing that up for me. I'll dump that screen shot and theory. This screen shot is the gem that is currently in it. It shows f87 on it but also, I believe it was just remanufactured in 2009 so it is probably the right gem. If it's not the gem that's bad most likely what else would you suggest I look at for the shifting issues and codes such as speed sensor in the gem

 

[RonD]

That is a valid part number for 1998 Ranger 4x4 GEM
Here are the ones listed
ID F87B-14B205-EA
ID F87B-14B205-EB
ID F87B-14B205-EC
ID F87B-14B205-ED
ID F87B-14B205-EE

 

[Collank]

Thanks! Then I can rule out the gem as an issue and start looking other places for the code faults. I read the date and first thought it was for a 2009 model year, but it was just made/reman back in 2009. Good to know.

 

[RonD]

As far as the engine trans issues yes, for sure not the GEM

Wipers, speedo/odo and 4WD is GEM

When speedo drops out did the ABS light come on
ABS light should come on with key on and then go off, a bulb test

 

[Collank]

I don't know that the transmission liked being flushed for the first time at 150k miles. My cousin at big 0 flushed it when he owned it. I guess the transmission or torque converter may after all be an issue of its own. I never saw an ABS light come on anytime while driving. ABS does come on for a moment when I cycle the key so the bulb is good. The manual locking hubs that were installed must have the vacuum lines capped but I'm not sure yet where he capped them so I have need to check that. It does have a whine when I put my ear up next to the idler pulley region, sounds kind of similar to a power steering pump whine but I haven't run a vacuum test of any kind on it. I would think I'd have an ABS light, engine light come on or lean codes if I had a vacuum leak causing these kind of issues. Maybe vacuum leak/no engine light or codes.

Again ABS bulb test checked out, bulb works.