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Manual to Automatic transfer help


pcather

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Hello Everyone,
I'm in the middle of a tranny swap, my Wife can't drive a stick :cool: I have 3 ford rangers, she killed the White one with 4 cyl manual, lugging engine and knocked out Rod and Mains. I also have a
2000 xlt with a 3.0L with Manual tranny, and a 2001 xlt with a 3.0L Automatic that is OBII compliant, I pulled the Automatic out of the 2001, and in process of installing in the 2000 model Ranger XLT. Just
wondering what all wiring i might need to swap from the 2001 to the 2000.

the 2001 engine overheated and locked up solid. the engine in the 2000 runs fine. I assume i will have to change out the Dash and all wiring from the 2001 to the 2000, along with steering wheel. the wiring swap from the locked up 2001 Engine to the running 2000 model will be a bit of a pain it seams since it has sit for a while a Rat or Mouse has eaten various spots of the wiring. I assume i can salvage the connectors etc the Rat ate from the current harness on the 2000 model 3.0L running engine.


I know some might ask why not just swap engines, well the AC works on the 2000 model, and the 2001's AC is out of 134a, so i figure fixing the AC would cost me too much. I got Retired when the covid hit, so i have the free time to do it all, wish i had a garage that was air conditioned, it's in the 100's here for the next week or so.

Anyone know of any hickups, i might run into with this swap. I was hoping the Engine harness's would be interchangeable until i saw the the 2001's Engine was OBII compliant, and the 2000 isn't. Are the engine harness the same between the two ? if not, oh well, i still have to pull all the dash wiring anyways, whats a little more :cry:

Thanks... Paul
 


2011Supercab

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The 2000 is OBDII compliant.

all Rangers have been OBDII compliant since 96
 

pcather

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So does this mean i Do Not have to use the Harness from the 2001 locked up 3.0L engine, on my 2000 3.0L since they are maybe the same harness.
 

Josh B

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I can't help you much as they can Pcather but welcome to TRS, and good luck with it :)
 

2011Supercab

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This is a post that will need @RonD on what to keep and what to transfer
 

stmitch

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Assuming the trucks are similar configuration (cab and bed length are the same), the auto trans has a shorter driveshaft than the manual. You'll need to either swap driveshafts, or if the trucks are different cab/bed lengths then you'll have to source/make the proper driveshaft.
Dash harness may or may not be the same. You won't need the clutch pedal position sensor with the auto, but it can just be unplugged and ignored. Otherwise the only reason to swap the dash harness is to keep certain features, etc.
Pedals will need to be swapped out.
Plate/carpet/vinyl to cover the hole where the manual shifter was will need to be installed.
The PCM will definitely need to be swapped. The manual PCM will not operate the auto trans.
Steering column, PCM, and ignition key are a matched set thanks to PATS.
Switching keys means your door locks will have a different key than the ignition.

If both engines are flex fuel, or both regular fuel then no engine changes are needed. IF one is flex fuel and the other is not, then you get into that conversion too, which might impact the PCM and everything else.

It's much, much simpler to just swap the good engine into the 2001 and deal with recharging the AC system. You might have to swap fuel injectors if one engine is flex fuel and the other is not, but that's it. No other changes or issues.
 

RonD

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2000 and 2001 Rangers were both wired for Manual transmissions when assembled
When an automatic was installed another, ADD-ON wiring harness, was used, maybe, problem is Ford was changing over to two separate main harness's at the time, one for manuals and one for automatics, so you may need to change the whole engine harness to get automatic wiring

So you may just need to remove this add-on harness from the 2001 and install it in the 2000, look in/under the 2001 for the 16-pin connector that was on the automatic, follow it up and remove it from other wiring to see if the are connectors that hook it to the main engine harness, if it runs directing to the Computer then you will need to swap out the whole engine harness

You will need to swap Computers(PCMs), as automatics need computer control and manuals did not
And that means you will need to deal with PATS(passive anti-theft system), and there was a change between 2000 and 2001 with PATS
2000 had a separate PATS module above the glove box
2001 has PATS inside the PCM
So there will be some extra wiring needed for this

If you are swapping steering column then you will have correct PATS keys for 2001 PCM

Way easier to teach her to drive a stick shift and just swap engines, lol
 

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pcather

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Assuming the trucks are similar configuration (cab and bed length are the same), the auto trans has a shorter driveshaft than the manual. You'll need to either swap driveshafts, or if the trucks are different cab/bed lengths then you'll have to source/make the proper driveshaft.
Dash harness may or may not be the same. You won't need the clutch pedal position sensor with the auto, but it can just be unplugged and ignored. Otherwise the only reason to swap the dash harness is to keep certain features, etc.
Pedals will need to be swapped out.
Plate/carpet/vinyl to cover the hole where the manual shifter was will need to be installed.
The PCM will definitely need to be swapped. The manual PCM will not operate the auto trans.
Steering column, PCM, and ignition key are a matched set thanks to PATS.
Switching keys means your door locks will have a different key than the ignition.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If both engines are flex fuel, or both regular fuel then no engine changes are needed. IF one is flex fuel and the other is not, then you get into that conversion too, which might impact the PCM and everything else.

It's much, much simpler to just swap the good engine into the 2001 and deal with recharging the AC system. You might have to swap fuel injectors if one engine is flex fuel and the other is not, but that's it. No other changes or issues.
Hi, I Finally got time to check for these issues. My cab and bed length's are the same, both have a wheel base of 160 , so it looks like just a driveshaft swap needed. My 2000 is Flex Fuel, and my 2001 is NLEV whatever that is.
I traced the 2001 automatic connector, it is part of the starter harness, goes on up to (battery & fuse box, ( has a split that goes to a 12 pin connector (that only uses 6 pins)) from that it either goes to square engine connector or square connector to enter the cab below the fuse box assembly. (both engines have the 12 pin connector in same location) of fender wall going to simular harness to either square box connectors.

thanks for the info Paul.......
 

pcather

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2000 and 2001 Rangers were both wired for Manual transmissions when assembled
When an automatic was installed another, ADD-ON wiring harness, was used, maybe, problem is Ford was changing over to two separate main harness's at the time, one for manuals and one for automatics, so you may need to change the whole engine harness to get automatic wiring

So you may just need to remove this add-on harness from the 2001 and install it in the 2000, look in/under the 2001 for the 16-pin connector that was on the automatic, follow it up and remove it from other wiring to see if the are connectors that hook it to the main engine harness, if it runs directing to the Computer then you will need to swap out the whole engine harness

You will need to swap Computers(PCMs), as automatics need computer control and manuals did not
And that means you will need to deal with PATS(passive anti-theft system), and there was a change between 2000 and 2001 with PATS
2000 had a separate PATS module above the glove box
2001 has PATS inside the PCM
So there will be some extra wiring needed for this

If you are swapping steering column then you will have correct PATS keys for 2001 PCM

Way easier to teach her to drive a stick shift and just swap engines, lol
---------------------------------------------------------

my Manual tranny cable
Hi, I Finally got time to check for these issues. My cab and bed length's are the same, both have a wheel base of 160 , so it looks like just a driveshaft swap needed. My 2000 is Flex Fuel, and my 2001 is NLEV whatever that is.
Never Mind i re-traced the 2001 automatic connector, it is part of the Engine harness, So it looks i need to change engine harness, at end of tranny connector are 4 bar wire a Rat ate, which i beleave are for a missing heated-02 sensor connector.

thanks for the info Paul.......
 

mtbikeboy

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2000 and 2001 Rangers were both wired for Manual transmissions when assembled
When an automatic was installed another, ADD-ON wiring harness, was used, maybe, problem is Ford was changing over to two separate main harness's at the time, one for manuals and one for automatics, so you may need to change the whole engine harness to get automatic wiring

So you may just need to remove this add-on harness from the 2001 and install it in the 2000, look in/under the 2001 for the 16-pin connector that was on the automatic, follow it up and remove it from other wiring to see if the are connectors that hook it to the main engine harness, if it runs directing to the Computer then you will need to swap out the whole engine harness

You will need to swap Computers(PCMs), as automatics need computer control and manuals did not
And that means you will need to deal with PATS(passive anti-theft system), and there was a change between 2000 and 2001 with PATS
2000 had a separate PATS module above the glove box
2001 has PATS inside the PCM
So there will be some extra wiring needed for this

If you are swapping steering column then you will have correct PATS keys for 2001 PCM

Way easier to teach her to drive a stick shift and just swap engines, lol
Ron D,

Do you have any info on the 2002 ranger PATS ? Is is similar to the 2001 or is it a different bird. I am getting the rapid flash on the theft light every time I try to start and nothing has been changed. Also a warning sound like the key is in the ignition still even when it is not.
 

RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

Two different things

2001-2003 PATS are the same, inside the PCM(engine computer)
Turn on the key and leave it on
Rapid flashing THEFT light will flash for 45-60seconds and THEN start to flash a trouble code, 2 digits with a 1 and then 1 to 6 flashes
11 Transceiver [transponder coil] not connected, or there is no power to it.
12 Transceiver internal fault.
13 No Key/no PATS key has been used to turn the ignition switch.
14 Incomplete key code received.
15 Invalid key code received.
16 CAN communications error.

The transceiver it a ring around the key slot, a powered antenna that reads the PATS keys number
Easy to change part if thats the problem, no reprogramming needed

Since you are also having an issue with the "key in ignition" chime they could be related if someone has been working on the steering column as both are in the key slot area
But they have no electrical connection to each other

You will need to remove the upper and lower clam shells from steering column to access both of these

Transceiver looks like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/H~4AAOSwQOpeviAU/s-l1200.jpg

Here it is installed: https://www.ranger-forums.com/attachments/8-cylinder-tech-34/207133d1501478610-photo-log-pats-installation-img_5225.jpg

In this picture do you see the Blue part peaking out from behind the transceiver ring, it has a black wire attached, this is the "key in ignition" detector, its a Ground wire that is grounded when key is put in to the cylinder
And ungounded when key is removed
Yours is not ungrounding
Many just cut that black wire and tape the end so chime will never sound again
But you can remove the key cylinder and then inspect the part to see why its staying grounded when key is removed


Get the PATS code and go from there

Also test battery voltage, key off, you should see 12.3v to 12.8volt
Under 12.3v and PATS can reset when starting causing an issue
But nothing to do with "key in ignition" chime
 
Last edited:

mtbikeboy

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Thanks so much, I did get code 11 so I believe I may need to order a new one. I will check the battery voltage first.
 

RonD

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Check fuse 19 in cab fuse box, 25amp, that powers the transceiver

Pull off the clam shell covers and make sure transceiver is plugged in

But yes, transceiver failure is not common but does happen
 

mtbikeboy

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Thanks Ron for your help.

I was able to get it running, it was actually 2 issues. The PATS transponder coil that wraps around the key was not working so I replaced it and a small wire (white/pink) that is connect to the clutch pedal position switch had come out of the plug itself.

I was going all the connections and I noticed the loose wire, once a reattached it to the switch plug the truck fired up fine! The theft light went out and all is well

Thanks again!
 

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