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LS1 Ranger


Danger_ranger83

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This swap is a super tight fit..with mine I had to cut the firewall out and move it back 3 inches just so I could mount my radiator, if you modified the radiator and moved it forward it might work out better
 


wahlstrom1

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I plan on dropping the rad and pushing it 2" ahead, goin with an electric fan and seein where things line up. Should be a tight squeeze, but the thing I'm worried about the most is getting my suspension hoop crossover bar in there.
 

Danger_ranger83

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I hope u don't like air conditioning either...or heater..or a fan
 

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Ditchin the AC right off the bat. It was -40*C here last week, heaters stayin! I'll find a way....
 

Danger_ranger83

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I'm just gonna get an aftermarket heater unit..I mainly ditched it all for weight but after weighing my truck I doubt 10 lbs really helped
 

Ozwynn

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My credo
If you can't go through it or around it, then go over it.
I hope u don't like air conditioning either...or heater..or a fan
bodylift should take car of that..... well maybe a bodylift and a little trimming.


but this brings me to a question. how you gonna change the spark plugs when its in? for that matter who came up with the stupid idea of putting spark plugs on the outboard side of the head instead of the valley.
 

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bodylift should take car of that..... well maybe a bodylift and a little trimming.


but this brings me to a question. how you gonna change the spark plugs when its in? for that matter who came up with the stupid idea of putting spark plugs on the outboard side of the head instead of the valley.
+1 on the bodylift, even with a 302 stuffed in mine it is still easier to work on than the 2.8 without a bodylift.

It is kinda nice that the spark plug wells will not fill up with water and short out the coil(s) too. I buried my '150 in a blizzard and after a night with a 40mph in crosswind #7 spark plug well filled up with snow, after I got it warmed up and it melted it shorted out the coil and killed it, $40 down the tube...
 
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Danger_ranger83

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bodylift should take car of that..... well maybe a bodylift and a little trimming.


but this brings me to a question. how you gonna change the spark plugs when its in? for that matter who came up with the stupid idea of putting spark plugs on the outboard side of the head instead of the valley.
Spark plugs are easy to change depending on how u build headers they should be simple to get to..when I had my buddy weld up my headers they got tweaked so I have to loosen the header to get to the number 4 plug but the others are easy...way better then having to pull the coil packs off every time u need to change ur plugs
 

Josh40601

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going with a 2" body lift. Keeping A/C and heater, and running an E fan too. It'll fit. One way or another... It'll fit.

I'm sticking with stock Fbody manifolds
 

Danger_ranger83

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going with a 2" body lift. Keeping A/C and heater, and running an E fan too. It'll fit. One way or another... It'll fit.

I'm sticking with stock Fbody manifolds
For the ac you might have to switch to the early 90s chevy style compressor with the Novak kit. I'm not saying it won't work but you might have to notch the frame out for some fbody manifolds to fit
 

Josh40601

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already planned on it. Once we get the motor in and fit, i'm boxing the frame in. Plus, i'm going with an aftermarket fuel cell in the back to allow for the longer transmission and Tcase setup.

Never thought about the older compressor.... I am not running fender wells, and i know there is a company that makes custom accessory brackets, so that is what i am looking towards as of right now.
 

Danger_ranger83

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Yea they make aftermarket kits for it but I can't justify spending $1200 on a kit when it can be done cheaper. The only aftermarket ppart I'll invest in is a remote mount power steering since the ls style power steering pump interfered with my steering box so I just did away with the power steering
 

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i either have to relocate it, or go full hydro.
 

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crossbreeding should be illegal, just saying
 

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