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Ignition, fuel pump & tranny mount


Lift

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Alright so i got the 302 in the 83. Its all hooked up in the engine bay i used a jacobs ignition and a oreilly electric fuel pump instead of a mechanical because we used power steering with a serpentine conversion so non of the fuel pumps fit, it either hit the steering pump or the gear box. I got the fuel pump in line at close to a 45 degree angle up on flow and wired up to a switch. Its getting spark. So if you go in the cab and turn the key on and all the way over to start, absolutely nothing happens but everything is getting power BUT the starter. OH yeahhh im using a 1 wire starter with an ignition switch in the engine bay. Stock original light/ etc harness. So i tried jumping across from te positive terminal to the starter side and the engine turns over no problem. but with the ignition switch it doesnt do anything. so i figured the starter switch was junk because it was on the harness out in the weather when i was doing the swap. Picked up a brand new one and still nothing. Im not sure why this isnt working because the igntion wire on the starter switch is part of the stock harness i believe. So no idea what to do on that :D sorry my story is all mixed up im running on 4 hours of sleep. my grammer too.
So with the fuel pump...it right next to the gas tanks right after the dual tank control swithc module thingy. I drained the tanks and the gas that was in it was green like neon green lol. I put some premium up in that bish and turned on the fuel pump you can feel it pumping fuel up the line but it doesnt get fuel to the top :/ maybe jsut a little bit. Im not sure if that has to do with the dual tanks i have or if the fuel pump needs to be 40psi pump and i need a fuel pressure regulator or something.

Tranny mount, The truck use to be an automatic 2.8L, longbed with dual tanks 2wd. Sooo i swapped out that shyt and put a manual t5 in. Its almost a perfect fit for the driveline just have to move the engine up an inch or so. Welllll the tranny mount kind curves up a hill on the passenger side and i cant center the engine or mount the tranny cuz of that. So whats the best way to go about this?

Again sorry for my information being all mixed up, im really tired and im hoping for some answers by tomorrow or i would type this up tomorrow. Also the grammer so yeahh you get it when you only sleep for 4 hours get up at 6am and are up tell 1am. Id love for any advice. Im kinda concerned about the starter switch issue tho.

btw is it easy to swap a cluster with a tach in the ranger that didnt have a tach? or better to just get a aftermarket tac?
 


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So if you go in the cab and turn the key on and all the way over to start, absolutely nothing happens but everything is getting power BUT the starter..............
The truck use to be an automatic 2.8L...............
I'm not clear on how it is currently wired but here's something to think about.

The original wiring to the starter went through the automatic's Neutral Safety Switch. The NSS interrupted the starter circuit so the automatic wouldn't start in gear. So, if the NSS wiring is still the path from the switch to the starter but the NSS is not there, then the starter will not work.

The usual fix for an auto-to-manual swap is to simply jump the NSS wires together. Just be aware that the factory clutch pedal interlock for the starter would not be there unless added by the installer. In other words, the starter would work all the time, not just when the clutch pedal is depressed.
 

dangerranger83

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Got pics of the engine in the truck and whatnot, really want ot see this and more details on all of it.

As for a tach, I would just go with an aftermarket one. I have a mini tach that is mounted to the top of the dash, metal part, so that it doesnt block anything on the instrament pannel but also with its small size, it doesnt get in my view at all.
 

Lift

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Ok great info guys. I didnt even think about that, i was so caught up into my wiring i thought i might have done something wrong.

So what about the backup lights? It says that the nss is also a part of your reverse lights. Well i did a 302 swap and a manual swap, so how would i go about with the wiring on that?


Thanks ill just wire up a tach instead
 

Lift

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funny this engine hasn't been started in years and i got it for a really cheap price so having the possibility of it not running right. I turned the fuel pump on and turned the key over to start and it started within 2 seconds on the first start. it sounds great, im actually really surprised on the sound of the engine. The tri y headers give it a nice sound, The 600cfm carb gives it instant throttle response too.

The only bummer is after 30 minutes of running it, it decided to shoot holes in the freeze plugs -.-..... Yeah so i pulled that bish out and replaced them darn things a put it back in and wired it back up and hooked everything back up.. all withing a few hours. hopefully nothing else goes wrong because before the freeze plugs went everything looked and sounded great.
 

dangerranger83

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Do what exactly are all the specs on your swap setup, i.e. what the engine has on/in it and the trans you are using and whatnot.

I'm going to be going in the same boat as you. I have never heard my engine run and dont know ruhr mileage on it but from what a few things on it have told me, somebody had been in it.

Sent from my SGH-T499 using Tapatalk 2
 

Psychopete

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So what about the backup lights?
Not sure how you did your wiring, but you may have to make a couple of small changes if you retained the driver's side plugs to adapt your engine management. An EVTM will show you where the reverse light wires run in the Ranger, simply wire those up to your T-5 reverse light switch.
 

Lift

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i wired the ignition through the stock coil plug and used the alternator wires, and the ignition switch hot wire. thats about all i really did. Everything else that plugged in, i plugged in. Its pretty basic
 

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