Kalwren
New Member
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2009
- Messages
- 118
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0L
- Transmission
- Manual
Hi guys.
I originally posted a thread in the 3.0 section with this problem. After spending some time under my hood and actually looking at my engine it turns out I have the 4.0 and not the 3.0. I bought the truck from a used car dealership about 3 weeks ago. It's spent a week in the shop. They were unable to duplicate the issue of it not starting when it's hot.
If I run the truck until it completely warms up and then turn it off for 10 minutes, it either won't start at all or it'll idle really rough until the engine temperature comes down. The temperature light does not indicate that the engine is over heating. It's showing normal.
It had a leak in the intake manifold gasket. I had that repaired and I also had them replace the coil pack. I've read that the coil pack can cause a problem when it gets hot, it causes the engine to no start.
The not starting issue keeps happening (although less frequent, now it's mostly idling rough when its hot). Sometimes though, it'll start and run rough. If I step on the gas it'll eventually get up to speed and as the fan cools the engine compartment, it'll run okay but a little rough until I can start driving the truck normally. The engine compartment cools off and it runs 100% fine.
I cleaned my MAF last night, but I'm still having the problem.
Can anyone suggest what I might look in to next? I need my truck to start and run every time I use it. I don't like wondering "is it going to start yet?". When it won't start, if I let it sit for 45 minutes with the hood open, the temperature drops enough that it'll start and I can drive away.
It's annoying though and I want to fix it.
Thanks in advance!
8/21/09:
RESOLVED!
This entire issue turned out to be a FUEL PUMP that was going bad. It was providing ~20lbs of pressure. Just enough for the engine to run, until it needed fuel "on driver demand". It was fuel starved, as the pump couldn't provide the ~35lbs of pressure that it normally does. It cost me $278 to have a mechanic replace the fuel pump.
The mechanic stated that when you turn on the key and the fuel pump primes, it provides around ~40 lbs of pressure to start the engine. My pump was providing around 20, just enough to start and stay running, but it had a hard time under load but could provide enough fuel to drive it.
I originally posted a thread in the 3.0 section with this problem. After spending some time under my hood and actually looking at my engine it turns out I have the 4.0 and not the 3.0. I bought the truck from a used car dealership about 3 weeks ago. It's spent a week in the shop. They were unable to duplicate the issue of it not starting when it's hot.
If I run the truck until it completely warms up and then turn it off for 10 minutes, it either won't start at all or it'll idle really rough until the engine temperature comes down. The temperature light does not indicate that the engine is over heating. It's showing normal.
It had a leak in the intake manifold gasket. I had that repaired and I also had them replace the coil pack. I've read that the coil pack can cause a problem when it gets hot, it causes the engine to no start.
The not starting issue keeps happening (although less frequent, now it's mostly idling rough when its hot). Sometimes though, it'll start and run rough. If I step on the gas it'll eventually get up to speed and as the fan cools the engine compartment, it'll run okay but a little rough until I can start driving the truck normally. The engine compartment cools off and it runs 100% fine.
I cleaned my MAF last night, but I'm still having the problem.
Can anyone suggest what I might look in to next? I need my truck to start and run every time I use it. I don't like wondering "is it going to start yet?". When it won't start, if I let it sit for 45 minutes with the hood open, the temperature drops enough that it'll start and I can drive away.
It's annoying though and I want to fix it.
Thanks in advance!
8/21/09:
RESOLVED!
This entire issue turned out to be a FUEL PUMP that was going bad. It was providing ~20lbs of pressure. Just enough for the engine to run, until it needed fuel "on driver demand". It was fuel starved, as the pump couldn't provide the ~35lbs of pressure that it normally does. It cost me $278 to have a mechanic replace the fuel pump.
The mechanic stated that when you turn on the key and the fuel pump primes, it provides around ~40 lbs of pressure to start the engine. My pump was providing around 20, just enough to start and stay running, but it had a hard time under load but could provide enough fuel to drive it.
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