High Idle issues

[kossdust]

Ok I have a High idle issue that I can not seem to track down. It idles high from first starting and will continue for till I slow to a stop but as soon as I hit the gas it goes back up.

I changed my IAC valve (last one I had cleaned to much and stopped working)

Replaced pcv valve, replaced EGR solioned, replaced catilitc converter, throttle cable (not sure how to test this besides just hitting peddle quickly seeing how it adjusted rpms, also have done by hand at the throttle bottle.)

Checked throttle postion sensor, EGR valve, DPFE (or whatever it is called) Everything is working when testing. I also seem to be getting the correct voltages from the pcm is there a way to test it?

I figure it has to be a vacuum leek but can not find it. What else should I check/ look for.

 

[kossdust]

I think I found the problem

Article No. 00-3-5 - Publication Date: JANUARY 31, 2000

HIGH IDLE - TAURUS WITH 3.4L SHO AND RANGER WITH 2.5L AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION

FORD: 1998-99 TAURUS SHO; 1998-2000 RANGER

ISSUE:
A high idle may occur on some vehicles. This may be caused by a poor electrical connection at the wire harness to Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

ACTION:
Splice into wire harness (-12B637-) just after the TPS with TPS Connector High Idle Service Kit. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.

SERVICE PROCEDURE
Verify the concern vehicle exhibits a "high idle" condition when depressing the clutch or shifting between gears for the Ranger or when shifting between Park and/or Neutral for Taurus SHO. If high idle condition is not exhibited, proceed with other driveability diagnostic fix procedures. If condition is present, obtain a High Idle Service Kit (XF1Z-15K607-AA) and proceed by following the instructions found within the service kit.

PART NUMBER / PART NAME
XF1Z-15K607-AA / High Idle Service Kit

OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE

WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under The Provisions Of Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage And Emission Warranty Coverage

 

[davidmiz1980]

Did the service kit correct your idle problem?

I’m having the same problem on my 1998 ranger manual trans. Truck idles high while coasting in neutral and the idle only stabilizes when coming to a complete stop. Should I get the ford high idle service kit?

 

[97ranger xlt]

I’m having the same problem on my 1998 ranger manual trans. Truck idles high while coasting in neutral and the idle only stabilizes when coming to a complete stop. Should I get the ford high idle service kit?

suggest 1st clean the IAC and check the pcv valve.

 

[greenpus]

Here's my suggestion.
This is only my opinion and cleaning the IAC on these newer models (98-newer) is pointless even though many say it helps. I've gone through so many IAC's on my 2000 Ranger and cleaning the IAC does nothing.

Here are my suggestions for the common problem of fast idle which is consistent of a bad IAC.

First off ignore the tech bulletin that everyone posts in regard to replacing the connector on the TPS. It will probably fix your problem but there is a cheaper and better way that don't put the extra cash into Ford's pocket for a piss poor design.

Buy electronic contact cleaner at Radio Shack or an auto parts store. Get the kind that cleans only and does not lube. Also pick up a tube of dielectric grease.

Disconnect both connectors for the IAC and the TPS and spray the contact cleaner on both ends and reconnect and disconnect both several times to clean the contacts. Spray liberally again and again connect and disconnect several times to clean contact pins. Let the connectors hang disconnected for 10 mins so the contact cleaner fluid evaporates.

Fill the pin holes in both connectors with dielectric grease. Don't be scared. Use a lot of the dielectric grease. Connect connectors. This cleans and protects the pin contacts so you don't have to replace the connector as stated in the tech bulletin.

Drive the truck and verify the fast idle has been resolved. You might notice erratic idle for a few mins because of the process the computer has to go through to relearn the idle trim. Best way to relearn the idle trim is to allow the truck to warm up and do some city driving in stop and go traffic. It really doesn't take that long. Don't waste your time disconnecting the battery.

If the fast idle issue returns then replace the IAC

Ok I have a High idle issue that I can not seem to track down. It idles high from first starting and will continue for till I slow to a stop but as soon as I hit the gas it goes back up.

I changed my IAC valve (last one I had cleaned to much and stopped working)

Replaced pcv valve, replaced EGR solioned, replaced catilitc converter, throttle cable (not sure how to test this besides just hitting peddle quickly seeing how it adjusted rpms, also have done by hand at the throttle bottle.)

Checked throttle postion sensor, EGR valve, DPFE (or whatever it is called) Everything is working when testing. I also seem to be getting the correct voltages from the pcm is there a way to test it?

I figure it has to be a vacuum leek but can not find it. What else should I check/ look for.

 

[nathan0053]

had the same problem on my 2000 2.5. next to your thermostat sensor is another sensor just unplug it and that should solve the problem that's what i did on mine and its been running great ever since. let me know if it works for you too.

 

[thewest]

High Idle

I have a '98 Ranger v6 3.0 4x4. I've had it for about a month. Since I purchased it I have had poor gas milage (13mpg) and a high neutral idle. When moving and engaging the clutch (neutral) the idle hangs around 2100-2200rpm, when the truck is at rest and I rev it up in neutral and release the gas it drops to 700-900 like it should. I have relpaced the AIC and the DPFE sensor, I've tested the EGR solenoid, EGR valve and every vacuum line i can find associated, they work great. All my electrical connections are in pristene shape as well not a bit of corrosion. I've also cleaned the pcv valve.

Please Help! I very much like this truck and bought it for reasonable workload/gas milage. Any suggestions?

Alright, so get this, if I hop in the truck to drive it around the block, stop half-way, and unplug the brand new AIC the truck runs perfectly!! I can't help but feel that by leaving it that way I'm trading one problem for another one in the long run.

So there is 1 of 3 problems I can think of:
Something is causing one of the sensors to read wrong
or
One of the sensors that reports to the computer that directly effects the state of the AIC needs replaced
or
The computer needs replaced

Anybody know exactly which sensors effect the AIC?

 

[RM_HM]

My 00 3.0l 4x4 ranger just started this.

When shifting from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to fourth the rpm hangs at 3000rpm for about 3 seconds before dropping. Not all the time, for now it's random. No pending codes on computer. 50000 miles on the clock.


P.S. I also have the ooking eeking noise when letting out the clutch



Edit

Cleaning the IAC valve seemed to do the trick for now It's been a few weeks and no idle hanging.

 

[moe2o56]

RPM Hang Also

I got the same issue with my 99 Ranger 3.0L. Just started happening, every once in a while when i shift from 2nd to 3rd the rpms will hang a 3000 and it takes a little while for them to go back down? Ive replaced the IACV about a year ago so its new. I've replaced the TPS sensor last week. Haven't a clue whats wrong with it and was wondering if you figured yours out?

 

[RustRanger]

More of the Same

2000 Ranger 2.5 usually starts out ok but after driving awhile and fully hot it will high idle when shifting ( 5 speed ). If you put in neutral and coast to a stop it will rev and rev and rev right until it gets down to almost completely stopped and then it comes right down. Can't be any vacuum leaks or sticking valves or PCV as they have no way of knowing when the vehicle in neutral is doing 2mph. It will rev all day long as long as it keeps moving at least a couple miles an hour. Must be a control issue but just what?

 

[RustRanger]

Think I Finally Got It

Read the post from Kossdust about the faulty plug situation and the follow up from Greenpus and went out checking things under the hood. I took the plug off the IAC and held the clip in and moved it in and out a bunch of times to attempt to scrape a better connection. I also did this on some other sensors in the area. That seems to be all that it needed as it hasn't been doing it any more ever since. I have to go back and do a more thorough job with the grease and everything like Greenpus did.

 

[fuchsrr]

Cleaning and grease worked for me

Thanks for the cleaning the all the electrical sensor plugs advice this worked for me cleaning them all with electric cleaner. Slid them on and off a few times then dielectric greased them. Working good now.