- Joined
- Aug 10, 2014
- Messages
- 503
- Reaction score
- 22
- Points
- 18
- Age
- 31
- Location
- Madison, IN
- Vehicle Year
- 1995
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Type
- 4.0 V6
- Engine Size
- 4.0L
- Transmission
- Automatic
- 2WD / 4WD
- 2WD
- Tire Size
- 215/70R15
Last weekend I scored most of an Optix Bi-Xenon HID Kitat a Goodwill for $25:
It had everything but the relay harness:
The Amazon invoice stated it was originally for a Hummer H2. Luckily, the H2 uses 9007 bulbs like my Ranger, so it will fit. Also, the bulbs are 5000K, which is the light temperature I was thinking of.
Contacting the original seller to obtain a harness went nowhere, but that's OK. I'm an engineer by trade and an electronics hobbiest on the side, so this isn't anything I can't solve with some custom circuitry.
Here's a crappy schematic of what I plan to do: (edit- it sucks and looks bad, kept for historical reasons only)
http://i64.tinypic.com/2a5j7du.jpg
...And a better one made in AutoCAD:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21166&stc=1&d=1473973470
The relay and diodes are to deal with the fact that I need the ballasts on whenever the headlights are on, not just the low-beams. I could have tapped into the red/yellow stripe wire at the headlight switch but I wanted to make this as plug-and-play as possible (not counting initial fabrication), mainly in case I ever go someplace where lighting laws exist and are enforced. The fuse is one of the locations on my secondary fuse block I added awhile back to power some of my other stuff (Camper shell LEDs, CB radio, and formerly a power inverter behind the seat)
First, I bought a relay with a mounting tab and made up the control side wires:
The extended heat shrink covers up the diodes which I soldered as part of the wire assembly. I used some 5185n schottky diodes for this, because my electronic component stash isn't readily available and I had some junk phone chargers I could rob for components. If I had my choice I would have used some 1N4007's, which are a super common component that is also dirt cheap and perfect for the application.
As for the rest, I had to make a couple of orders. First, some hi-low style 9007 to 9006 adapters:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321145518686
While the wiring there won't help me directly, I all have to do is cut them in half and I have the pigtails I need. Sadly that seller seems to have a monopoly on these (all listings have the same location listed ) and they ship slow...
Also, I had to order the female equivlant of the shutter solenoid connector. After some research, they're 0.145" Molex connectors, which I bought from digikey:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0003066023/WM4353-ND/2421284
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0002061103/WM1001-ND/26255
They came in today; I confirmed that they're a match.
I don't know the polarity but I'll check before I crimp (in case the solenoid has a diode for snubbing).
Now, finally, here's the questions, and it has to do with housings. Since these are bi-xenon, high/low is controlled by a solenoid driven shutter. I'd think that would mean no projector housing is needed but the information I've found hasn't been consistent. So, that's the first question, will my stock-style lenses work, or will I need to go to a projector housing.
The next question is aesthetics to a degree. If I go with projector housings, I'm thinking of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-97-Ford-Ranger-Pick-Up-Chrome-Housing-Clear-Lens-Projector-Headlights-/301853233363?fits=Year:1995|Make:Ford|Model:Ranger&hash=item4647dad0d3:g:8w4AAOSwX~dWoFcv
What I'd like to know is if anybody has done this to a 1995-1997 Ranger and kept stock turn signals. So far, all I've seen is this picture:
Which is as clear as mud. I know I don't like the euro-style tail lights or the euro-style turn signals. I ran the latter on my former '99 Dodge Durango (goodwill score once again), and while they looked fine there, I don't like them as well here. Both look a bit too "ricer" for my tastes. That said, from that not-so-clear picture, it looks just doing the headlights looks viable, but some confirmation would help.
The final question is on Fog lights. The projector housings include a spot for H3 fog lamps, which I included in my schematic for planning purposes (and even if I didn't, I may add some elsewhere). I don't have factory fog lights, so I was planning on running them off the now overpowered low beam circuit. Back with Durango I always used them, so I'm thinking running them without a separate switch... but is that a good idea and/or legal? All I know is most places require them to shut off when the high beams are on. Also, is there anything to gain with amber fog lights, or should I stay with the 5000K the headlights will be running?
Suggestions and advice?
It had everything but the relay harness:
The Amazon invoice stated it was originally for a Hummer H2. Luckily, the H2 uses 9007 bulbs like my Ranger, so it will fit. Also, the bulbs are 5000K, which is the light temperature I was thinking of.
Contacting the original seller to obtain a harness went nowhere, but that's OK. I'm an engineer by trade and an electronics hobbiest on the side, so this isn't anything I can't solve with some custom circuitry.
Here's a crappy schematic of what I plan to do: (edit- it sucks and looks bad, kept for historical reasons only)
http://i64.tinypic.com/2a5j7du.jpg
...And a better one made in AutoCAD:
http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21166&stc=1&d=1473973470
The relay and diodes are to deal with the fact that I need the ballasts on whenever the headlights are on, not just the low-beams. I could have tapped into the red/yellow stripe wire at the headlight switch but I wanted to make this as plug-and-play as possible (not counting initial fabrication), mainly in case I ever go someplace where lighting laws exist and are enforced. The fuse is one of the locations on my secondary fuse block I added awhile back to power some of my other stuff (Camper shell LEDs, CB radio, and formerly a power inverter behind the seat)
First, I bought a relay with a mounting tab and made up the control side wires:
The extended heat shrink covers up the diodes which I soldered as part of the wire assembly. I used some 5185n schottky diodes for this, because my electronic component stash isn't readily available and I had some junk phone chargers I could rob for components. If I had my choice I would have used some 1N4007's, which are a super common component that is also dirt cheap and perfect for the application.
As for the rest, I had to make a couple of orders. First, some hi-low style 9007 to 9006 adapters:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321145518686
While the wiring there won't help me directly, I all have to do is cut them in half and I have the pigtails I need. Sadly that seller seems to have a monopoly on these (all listings have the same location listed ) and they ship slow...
Also, I had to order the female equivlant of the shutter solenoid connector. After some research, they're 0.145" Molex connectors, which I bought from digikey:
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0003066023/WM4353-ND/2421284
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/molex-llc/0002061103/WM1001-ND/26255
They came in today; I confirmed that they're a match.
I don't know the polarity but I'll check before I crimp (in case the solenoid has a diode for snubbing).
Now, finally, here's the questions, and it has to do with housings. Since these are bi-xenon, high/low is controlled by a solenoid driven shutter. I'd think that would mean no projector housing is needed but the information I've found hasn't been consistent. So, that's the first question, will my stock-style lenses work, or will I need to go to a projector housing.
The next question is aesthetics to a degree. If I go with projector housings, I'm thinking of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-97-Ford-Ranger-Pick-Up-Chrome-Housing-Clear-Lens-Projector-Headlights-/301853233363?fits=Year:1995|Make:Ford|Model:Ranger&hash=item4647dad0d3:g:8w4AAOSwX~dWoFcv
What I'd like to know is if anybody has done this to a 1995-1997 Ranger and kept stock turn signals. So far, all I've seen is this picture:
Which is as clear as mud. I know I don't like the euro-style tail lights or the euro-style turn signals. I ran the latter on my former '99 Dodge Durango (goodwill score once again), and while they looked fine there, I don't like them as well here. Both look a bit too "ricer" for my tastes. That said, from that not-so-clear picture, it looks just doing the headlights looks viable, but some confirmation would help.
The final question is on Fog lights. The projector housings include a spot for H3 fog lamps, which I included in my schematic for planning purposes (and even if I didn't, I may add some elsewhere). I don't have factory fog lights, so I was planning on running them off the now overpowered low beam circuit. Back with Durango I always used them, so I'm thinking running them without a separate switch... but is that a good idea and/or legal? All I know is most places require them to shut off when the high beams are on. Also, is there anything to gain with amber fog lights, or should I stay with the 5000K the headlights will be running?
Suggestions and advice?
Last edited: