Help needed Truck wont start

[rags]

I would also check the crankshaft position sensor! .. Located front of motor Passenger side of crank shaft .. could have been soaked with hot antifreeze and cracked .. or the same with its plug in connector

 

[Muddy94]

Yes I have looked at the oil on the dipstick. It was fine no indications of anything but oil.
It was one of the first things I did when I got home that day because I was worried that I may have blew a head gasket or cracked a head. I think I am fine because I have had the truck running after I got it warm and it ran fine.

I have been rechecking everything over again and i have found that my spark is not as strong as I thought it was. The other day I swore I had a good spark. but last night after giving myself a good shock (I didnt fine it very funny but the guy that was helping me was pretty much on the ground dieing of laughter) I never saw much spark at all it was very broken up. from my understanding little spark is like having no spark at all?

So now with this new information I am starting to believe its a coil pack issue. Would you agree? So I am going to change out my coil pack for a new one.

Any other ideas on what it could be before i go drop a little cash on a coil pack?

 

[Muddy94]

I have already put a new CKS

 

[RonD]

This is a quick to watch video on how to test Ford Coil Packs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1zhgsnyZWw

I would also check the voltage, 12vDC, at the coil with key on and also with engine cranking, power could be shutting off when engine is cranking.

Most, if not all, cars/trucks have an ignition switch that cuts power to most accessories when starter motor is engaged, this gives all available power to the starter motor, so it can be a separate power pathway when key is in the "run" position, and in the "start" position, sometimes it is only a relay or also a relay.

In older cars the coil was powered by either a 12vDC wire or a 6vDC resistance wire, but only 1 wire at a time, when cranking the coil got 12vDC, when you let off the key(stopped cranking), the 6vDC resistance wire took over.
This setup was used because the coils lasted longer and provided enough spark to a running engine with 6vDC, but provided better cold spark with 12vDC.

The dual voltage system often had a leg that failed.
If car would start but then die when you let off the key, then the resistor or Ballast wire had failed, the 6vDC circuit.
If car didn't fire when cranking but did fire or back fire when you let off the key then the 12vDC wire circuit had failed.

I know they don't use the dual voltage any longer, but they still have two power positions/pathways on the key, Start and Run, so it is important to make sure coil has power in both positions

 

[Muddy94]

Ok thanks for the video I will test it.

 

[Muddy94]

Well its not the coil I decided just to put a new one on.
Still not starting up just turning over.

 

[RonD]

Just as a "heads up" it is cheaper buying a new truck all at once, than buy one new part at a time , joking

Testing is best

Have you checked for 12volts at the coil when engine is cranking?

3 things are needed for an engine to start.
Spark at the correct time
Correct fuel/air mixture
Compression, valves and pistons are in sync

Lack of Compression is the least likely issue, it means mechanical failure, but easy to test.
Starting Fluid is used to test if fuel/air mixture is the problem.

That leaves spark, one of the harder issues to deal with but fairly straight forward.