Head gasket failure on the 3.0 - how common?

[rusty ol ranger]

I got the valve in. Figured out the orientation. Filled it with coolant, drove it 20 miles and its running fine. I don't know how low the fluid level dropped but it only started steaming about a block from my house driving 25 mph. I think it will be OK but time will tell.

The steaming was probably coolant getting sprayed on the manifold.

A block at 25mph from a cold start i doubt it would overheat even with no cooling system

 

[98v70dad]

The steaming was probably coolant getting sprayed on the manifold.

A block at 25mph from a cold start i doubt it would overheat even with no cooling system

It wasn't a cold start. I drove to home depot and then back home. I had driven about 15 miles prior to that. The steam started a block from getting home. I would have stopped but there was I guy blowing off the dust from his driveway at exactly the same spot that the puff off steam appeared and I figured it was from his dust cloud. The steam stopped and came back when I pulled into my driveway. That's when I realized there was a problem.

Anyhow, I fixed the valve, filled it up and drove it about 20 miles. No issues that can be easily seen. Temperature is right at normal. I've maybe had a slow leak for years but its hard to tell. I'm in the deep south and coolant can evaporate from the expansion tank. I've kept an eye on it. The thing I need to decide now is what to do next. I've looked for coolant tracks left by leaks and never found any. No puddles. Engine temp always right on normal. The truck is due for new hoses. So, I'm inclined to replace ALL of the hoses, hose clamps, thermostat, radiator (the original) and radiator cap and hope for the best. All tolled that's about $300 worth of new parts and an afternoon's worth of work - so not too bad. I'm just worried about what internal damage the overheating may have caused that I can't see.

I once rebuilt the suspension, bought new tires and wheels and replaced both drive axles on a 24 year old volvo only to have it melt down on the drive to work two months later due to no oil pressure. The oil level was fine. The oil pump was fine. An o-ring on the oil sump had dried out and the sump stopped working right. The o-ring wasn't on the maintenance schedule. I had to scrap the car because fixing it wasn't worth my time and more money to fix it. I don't want to repeat that with the Ranger.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Search for "glove test". It will tell you f there is any combustion gas is getting into the cooling system, tho I doubt it because of your description.

 

[RonD]

Just FYI, you don't have an expansion tank, Degas systems use those, you have an overflow tank, vented tank

And if temp gauge stayed at or below 3/4 then no engine damage would occur

You can rent a Cooling system pressure tester, $10-$20
It's a radiator cap with a hand pump and gauge
Cold engine, you put on the cap and pump pressure up to 20psi
(normal operating pressure is 14-16psi)

Then wait and watch if the pressure starts to drop
If not, then no leaks
If so, then you WILL see the cold coolant leaking down from the cold engine and can track down the leak, or leaks


The overflow hose from the radiator to the bottom of overflow tank can crack and leak, give it a look
You can take the cap off the overflow tank and put your hand over it to seal it, then remove the hose from rad cap opening and blow into it, it should hold pressure, if not hose or tank is leaking



In the old days the radiators had a FULL line about 2"-3" below the rad cap opening, this was a Degas system
The air gap allowed the coolant to expand when heated, if over heated rad caps valve would open and coolant or air would come out the hose and down to the ground
Top of radiator acted and was an Expansion tank

An Overflow system was used after that, radiator was fulled to the top and had a radiator cap with TWO valves, and a hose to the bottom of an Overflow tank that was vented, open to the air
Overflow tanks have a COLD and HOT line
As the coolant was heated and expanded the larger valve in rad cap allowed warm coolant to flow to the bottom of overflow tank, and if there was any air in the radiator it would come out first and then bubble to the top of overflow tank, which is why the hose is at the bottom of the tank.
On cool down, as the coolant shrinks in volume, the smaller valve in rad cap would be pulled open and suck back in coolant from the overflow tank
System was self purging of air, and always kept the radiator topped up
So any leaks would be noticed after engine was cold and coolant level in overflow tank was below the COLD line

The Ranger 2.3l DOHC Duratec uses a Degas system, its has a plastic "bottle" on the engine's cooling system with a FULL Line as has an Air Gap inside the bottle, radiator has a solid cap, no valve
Degas bottle has a pressure cap and a hose to discharge hot coolant to the ground if overheated

 

[98v70dad]

What is a good quality aftermarket radiator? Recommendations please. I once put a radiator I bought at NAPA in my Camry and it failed in two years. It was replaced under warrantee but radiators should last a long time. The radiator in my Ranger is 28 years old and its probably a good idea to replace it whether it has leaks or not.

 

[Josh B]

Does anybody ever rebuild the older radiators?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Copper rads are still rebuilt.

 

[RonD]

No, not the plastic tank radiators, just the older all metal ones, as far as I know

 

[Josh B]

Haha, I just went and checked my 93's "original" radiator. plastic and aluminum.

I imagine a lot of them got picked off mainly so the guy at the shop could sell the scrap copper ones :/

 

[98v70dad]

Again, can anyone recommend a good quality radiator? Rock Auto doesn't have a motorcraft part. There is a lot of junk aftermarket stuff and I want a quality part.

 

[Josh B]

What is a good quality aftermarket radiator? Recommendations please. I once put a radiator I bought at NAPA in my Camry and it failed in two years. It was replaced under warrantee but radiators should last a long time. The radiator in my Ranger is 28 years old and its probably a good idea to replace it whether it has leaks or not.

Is the radiator in your Ranger made of copper?? If so sir I would definitely go for having it rebuilt

 

[pcather]

My 3.0L in my 2001 xlt Ranger, overheated, and engine locked up tight as a drum. I didn't see the gauge showing overheating, I may be crazy, but if radiator gets a little low the heater wont work (blow hot air). i found it low on coolant several times, where coolant went prior don't know.

Also, i wouldn't advise throwing buckets of water on an Overheating engine, UNLESS the engine is running when you do it, cold water on an overheated engine will probably crack something, heads, exhaust manifold, etc.. best regards... Paul

 

[98v70dad]

Is the radiator in your Ranger made of copper?? If so sir I would definitely go for having it rebuilt

Radiators in production cars have been made of plastic and aluminum for decades. So, no, my radiator is not made of copper.

 

[Josh B]

I may be a bit behind the times here sir, maybe in another 20 years I can maybe catch up

 

[98v70dad]

Search for "glove test". It will tell you f there is any combustion gas is getting into the cooling system, tho I doubt it because of your description.

Did the glove test. Was aware of it and had used it on other cars but forgot about it so thanks for the reminder. It passed.