good blocks?

[baddad457]

The reason I threw in the bit about the distributor was due to the fact that your donor's distributor, if it's an 86-up 5.0 won't work with a carb. The only application for a Duraspark used with a roller cam, was the 85 Mustang GT with manual transmission. These distributors can be bought as reman units from your local parts house. Otherwise, you'll either have to refit a stock distributor with a steel cam gear, or buy an aftermarket unit that's got one. AOD or T5 ? That's your choice to make. If you have a manual transmision truck, then half that decision is already made. If you've got an automatic truck, then the AOD will be the easier choice.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

The reason I threw in the bit about the distributor was due to the fact that your donor's distributor, if it's an 86-up 5.0 won't work with a carb. The only application for a Duraspark used with a roller cam, was the 85 Mustang GT with manual transmission. These distributors can be bought as reman units from your local parts house. Otherwise, you'll either have to refit a stock distributor with a steel cam gear, or buy an aftermarket unit that's got one. AOD or T5 ? That's your choice to make. If you have a manual transmision truck, then half that decision is already made. If you've got an automatic truck, then the AOD will be the easier choice.

2.9 5 speed dude.
so if i find a 302 with a dizzy i can jack it and regardless of distributer type?
and i prefer auto tranny but if its gonna cost me more than a couple grand to make the tranny strong enough to withstand the power its not worth it im fairly sure the t5s are known to be strong enough...

 

[irish]

I run a mexican block in my mustang, I use link bar lifters.

The mexican blocks have heavier main caps somewhat similar to hipo

289 caps, but more importantly the main webbing is thicker. They are easy

to spot, they have "hecho en mexico" stamped in the lifter valley and two

useless knobs cast on the front. I have one listed in the classifieds here and

I'll send pictures if you want to see one. I weighed a roller and a mexican

block side by side and the mexican was 10 lbs more.

Another reasonable alternative to stock blocks is the B50 sportsman block

which is pretty much the same as a mexican but with better casting quality.

I have a 347 shortblock in one of those also in the classifieds and I quite like

those blocks. These are roller blocks as well.

If you still want more Darts SHP blocks are fairly reasonably priced for a Dart.

Nope, I do not have one in the classifieds! (wish I owned one) They are

available in 302/351 and are good for lots of hp.

Going stroker is a good way to go, I'd recommend it.

Hope that helped

Matt

 

[baddad457]

. I weighed a roller and a mexican

block side by side and the mexican was 10 lbs more.

Another reasonable alternative to stock blocks is the B50 sportsman block

which is pretty much the same as a mexican but with better casting quality.



Matt

This is what I've been wondering about. The D8VE block weighs 10 pounds more than the late rollers. It sounds like it's likely the same casting as the B50, but using the std main caps. Ford's book listed the mex's weight at 125 pounds and the D8VE as 136. Didn't think the Mex weight was correct as that's what the rolller block weight was listed at.

 

[irish]

I had all three of them in my shop last year, roller/mex/B50, all were empty and clean and I sold all of them and shipped them so I had to weigh each one. I have the results written down somewhere but I'm sure the roller was the lightest, B50 close to Mexican but about a lb shy of it.

Matt

 

[jaymegriffiths]

my little scroll thingy on my laptop isn't working and its pissin me off. ok back on topic is a mexi block necessary?
woulndn't someone building a mild 302 seek lighter options?
i've read on the interwebs of a place you can buy blocks good for 1000 horsepower for 1600 bux bare.

 

[irish]

Stock block, seen them split as low as 350 at the tires, depends on how well it was built, and how well tuned and how many rpms etc

It isnt scientific at all but my opinion is that a well built 500 hp motor is fine in a mexican.

You can buy a bare boss block for 1600 it is true, but it needs 4-500 dollars worth of machining.

I'm not 100% sure how serious a motor you want to build, aside from beating your buddies BBF, how fast do you want to spend?

Bear in mind there will always be someone foolish enough to run 20 lbs of boost through a stock block. The ones that don't blow up right away proclaim stock 5.0 blocks are super strong, the others buy aftermarket after wrecking their expensive parts in a stock block.

The man who does my cams always say,"building it once, the right way, is cheaper then doing it twice." He isn't as polite as that but you get the idea...

Matt

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Stock block, seen them split as low as 350 at the tires, depends on how well it was built, and how well tuned and how many rpms etc

It isnt scientific at all but my opinion is that a well built 500 hp motor is fine in a mexican.

You can buy a bare boss block for 1600 it is true, but it needs 4-500 dollars worth of machining.

I'm not 100% sure how serious a motor you want to build, aside from beating your buddies BBF, how fast do you want to spend?

Bear in mind there will always be someone foolish enough to run 20 lbs of boost through a stock block. The ones that don't blow up right away proclaim stock 5.0 blocks are super strong, the others buy aftermarket after wrecking their expensive parts in a stock block.

The man who does my cams always say,"building it once, the right way, is cheaper then doing it twice." He isn't as polite as that but you get the idea...

Matt

lol i get that and 350 at the wheels is actually around where i would like to be but if 300 at the wheels means i can have more reliable power then im willing to reason. the reason i would prefer to stay with a roller block is for a smooth idle. my point is mainly to achieve realistic and useful power that matches my truck. the only thing a 500 horse ranger is goo for is racing and my license cant handle that.
i wont be running boost but i'd like to build it strong enough to withstand a little charger later on if i want without having to tear down and replace every part.
aluminum pistons, afr heads, mild cam and reworked crank are plenty and a stroker kit is under investigation. remember i live in canada and kits offered in usa usually cost twice as much here.

 

[irish]

Well I do not understand the "roller block = smooth idle" train of thought.

My old mustang was roller cam and its idle was anything but smooth.

It has to do with cam profile regardless of wether it is roller/flat tappet.

Were I in your position, I'd spend the extra 1-200 dollars on a more solid

block without breaking the bank on a dart/boss block.

That way your build has some room for growth without starting from scratch again.

A mexican or a B50 or the other mentioned earlier in the thread(do not know much about those) would be good.

If you had not mentioned adding a charger I would have said a stock roller would do you fine, thousands of them with HCI running around no problem.

hope that helps

Matt

 

[jaymegriffiths]

Well I do not understand the "roller block = smooth idle" train of thought.

My old mustang was roller cam and its idle was anything but smooth.

It has to do with cam profile regardless of wether it is roller/flat tappet.

Were I in your position, I'd spend the extra 1-200 dollars on a more solid

block without breaking the bank on a dart/boss block.

That way your build has some room for growth without starting from scratch again.

A mexican or a B50 or the other mentioned earlier in the thread(do not know much about those) would be good.

If you had not mentioned adding a charger I would have said a stock roller would do you fine, thousands of them with HCI running around no problem.

hope that helps

Matt

i think the charger idea has been dropped as i want aluminum pistons and high compression... (ie over 9)
also im going to look for a 331 stroker kit here when im ready to build my engine...
as far as block goes, i believe i'm going to speak with a guy here whos all about 5.0's...
but until i get a new dd im all talk

 

[Ozwynn]

I believe you can use a brass gear on the distributor and it will work with either style cam..... but since it is the same price as a steel gear .... I would just buy the steel gear ......

personally I would start with a 351.... its a whole nuther world compared to a 302..... Run a high end truck cam.... get a single plane edelbrock manifold..... drill and tap it for fuel injectors...... use the stock dual throttle body and TPS on a plate machined to fit you manifold (or you could use a 454 throttle body ....just remove the injectors from it and install a Ford TPS as it is just going to meter air) run a 96 -97 MAF computer and find somewbody with EFI LIVE or EEC Tuner to burn you a new program.

 

[jaymegriffiths]

I believe you can use a brass gear on the distributor and it will work with either style cam..... but since it is the same price as a steel gear .... I would just buy the steel gear ......

personally I would start with a 351.... its a whole nuther world compared to a 302..... Run a high end truck cam.... get a single plane edelbrock manifold..... drill and tap it for fuel injectors...... use the stock dual throttle body and TPS on a plate machined to fit you manifold (or you could use a 454 throttle body ....just remove the injectors from it and install a Ford TPS as it is just going to meter air) run a 96 -97 MAF computer and find somewbody with EFI LIVE or EEC Tuner to burn you a new program.

thanks for your opinion but id rather not discuss my reasons for choosing a 302 and no offence but im not interested. feel free to do those mods to your truck i'd love too see it done. not tryin to be a dick just dont wanna flame up my thread with some big discussion about whats better etc etc u know how it is

 

[Ozwynn]

thanks for your opinion but id rather not discuss my reasons for choosing a 302 and no offence but im not interested. feel free to do those mods to your truck i'd love too see it done. not tryin to be a dick just dont wanna flame up my thread with some big discussion about whats better etc etc u know how it is

I don't think I would do a V8 gasser RBV ...... I would probably go diesel first.... or a 300 L6 Turbo ....... I was just more thinking out load that a 351 would get you to your power goals on half the budget and have the sleeper performance you are looking for.....

 

[jaymegriffiths]

I don't think I would do a V8 gasser RBV ...... I would probably go diesel first.... or a 300 L6 Turbo ....... I was just more thinking out load that a 351 would get you to your power goals on half the budget and have the sleeper performance you are looking for.....

i dont have the fab skills or knowledge to do a diesel, or i would.
i dont want a huge job. i want to put a 302 in my truck, carbed. deal with it

 

[baddad457]

i think the charger idea has been dropped as i want aluminum pistons and high compression... (ie over 9)
also im going to look for a 331 stroker kit here when im ready to build my engine...
as far as block goes, i believe i'm going to speak with a guy here whos all about 5.0's...
but until i get a new dd im all talk

I built my 331 about 5-6 years ago, using an 89 roller block. It's been twisted to 7 grand many times, & more frequently to 6500. It's never been apart since built, other than to pull the intake to change gaskets (my son sucked one in after reving it out to 7 grand, then letting off the gas with it in 2nd gear, the vacuum created, sucked one gasket into the intake port) It's been in two vehicles now, first the 89 Ranger, now in the 77 Comet. It shows no sign of giving up the ghost because of being built around a stock block.